Mark rods, mains with paint as you torque them......Oil everything, proper clearance and torques, no problems....
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
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Studs or bolts, they all stretch when you loosen and retorque them... If you do that too many times, the bolt or stud will stretch so much it will start to neck down and make a weak spot that may fail under heavy load... Every time that you torque a rod or main bolt, it stretches about .0005" to .002"... Keep doing it and it will stretch the bolt where it will neck down to smaller diameter and get weak...
Fastener engineering would allow 5 clamp cycles on the rod bolts, we got to use three at the engine factory and had to save one for service and another for a rebuild in the field...
The rods used one clamp cycle on the rod line when they torqued the cap to the rod and machined the crank bore, so the engine line could only use a rod twice before scapping it... We could only recycle a rod once on the engine line as that would be our second clamp cycle...
I used Lubriplate 105 assembly lube. White lithium with zinc. You check all clearances dry with either plastigauge or a dial bore gauge or snap gauges for the tod and main bearings and micrometers for the crank throws. Snap gauges and dial calipers are the least accurate. Double check your math if you do. snug all the rod bolts down and pry the crank back and forth to square the thrust bearing. Don't forget to measure the thrust clearance with a feeler gauge. You should check ring end gap. Probably won't have to file them but you never know. A ring filer works best. Be careful installing the rings onto the pistons you can brake them easily if you stretch them too far. Make sure you stagger all the end gaps around the bore. Piston notches go towards the front and all printing should face up towards the intake surface. The rods are notched so the bearings go in one way but the squirt holed should face up towards the cam. Wait, you guys already went over this stuff. With oil, STP, or assembly lube on the crank it should spin smoothly. I start at the front and install pistons on each crank throw rotating the crank and new rods at least a full turn each time. It should turn smoothly but get a little harder to turn with each pair of pistons you install. I probably forgot something but may be mentioned something someone else forgot. Don't forget the rear main seal. I use a little silicone on the block side and a small dab on the ends as well. Just a dab.
Good to know thanks
I don't like drill priming my engines... Sometimes it's hard to get the hex in the distributor shaft lined up properly when putting the distributor shaft back in and and can mash the shaft and pump gear - it happened on my first engine build...
I now install the distributor gear before I put the oil pump on so I can guide the hex on the drive gear into the hex drive on the oil pump...
#105
**** me running. I just realized. The rear main. I forgot it. Sob. Guess it’s all coming back out now.
Whew!
Good machining is critical.....
how the hell you forget a BEARING????**** me running. I just realized. The rear main. I forgot it. Sob. Guess it’s all coming back out now.
Take your time and think things through. I'm glad I mentioned it. You are too. It would have leaked like a stuck hog.**** me running. I just realized. The rear main. I forgot it. Sob. Guess it’s all coming back out now.
Rear main seal.how the hell you forget a BEARING????
Yeah thanks mike!! I probably would have caught it when I got to the bottom of the parts box but still. Sob.
In Big block Mopars I always used a rope seal for real main....
I ordered the kit from Mancini, pretty sure it’s the rope style as we talked about that before I ordered it
**** me running. I just realized. The rear main. I forgot it. Sob. Guess it’s all coming back out now.
Oh boy....
If you just forgot the bearing shells, just remove the rear main cap, rotate the bearing shell into the block starting on the anchor slot side and rotate the bearing into the block until the anchor slot seats in it's notch... I've walked bearing shells into the block like that without removing the crank....
See if you can do it without loosening the other mains first, and if it hangs up loosen up one at a time until you can get it to spin into position...
Rear main seal. I have all the bearings in.Oh boy....
If you just forgot the bearing shells, just remove the rear main cap, rotate the bearing shell into the block starting on the anchor slot side and rotate the bearing into the block until the anchor slot seats in it's notch... I've walked bearing shells into the block like that without removing the crank....
See if you can do it without loosening the other mains first, and if it hangs up loosen up one at a time until you can get it to spin into position...
I replaced a rope seal on a rear main with the engine still in the car... Used that bird cage thing to pull it through and then trim the edges...
It's much easier to do with the engine on a stand...
You should be able to walk the rope seal in with that bird cage thing and pull it through without removing the crank...
Yep, that I quadruple checked prior lol, I even took pics to verify hahaAre you sure about all the bearings????
Bird cage thing?
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