Dam Rob your still up?
I know, right? I'm gonna die. lol
Dam Rob your still up?
RRR,
[1] The newer hi flow [ Chinese ] stats can jam. They have a rubber seal/ring inside the main cup that is probably a little stuff. Dribble some ATF over the seal area it & then try it again in boiling water, it should work.
[2] As you found out, DCR & compression tests do not give a reliable indicator of an engine's tolerance to detonation. I alluded to this in my earlier post, which YR scoffed at, showing he doesn't know what he is talking about. There are PLENTY of examples of engines that, according to 'theory' should be detonating, but are not; & plenty of engines that are detonating [ like yours ] that should not be.
[3] I would richen the power cct of your carb, slightly. This should provide cooler combustion & may get you over the hump...
I just checked the compression on my street 170, last week. Mine was 165-175, just about the same as yours. My engine is a measured 9.5 to 1 CR. It has the mildest Mopar Performance cam. I don't remember the center line I used (need to find my notes). And we have similar problems. Just a FYI
I just checked the compression on my street 170, last week. Mine was 165-175, just about the same as yours. My engine is a measured 9.5 to 1 CR. It has the mildest Mopar Performance cam. I don't remember the center line I used (need to find my notes). And we have similar problems. Just a FYI
PS: It seems to like about 30 degrees total, and in the neighborhood of 15 to 20 degrees initial. but as I stated in a previous post, I haven't done any dist recurve yet. and cheated on getting the initial, and total I wanted, by connecting the Vac adv to manifold vacuum.
Link no workie
i thought this thread was about tuning to get reid of slight detonation, and RRR ant gave up yet,...toooo early to say it "dosen't work" yet i believe!Well, Yellow Rose, smart fella who claims no problem running 'high compression pump gas engines' with no problems....
This thread is about somebody who IS having problems.
And THIS threads shows that sometimes it doesn't work. Maybe you are not as smart as you think you are......
Link no workie
Well, Yellow Rose, smart fella who claims no problem running 'high compression pump gas engines' with no problems....
This thread is about somebody who IS having problems.
And THIS threads shows that sometimes it doesn't work. Maybe you are not as smart as you think you are......
Well, Yellow Rose, smart fella who claims no problem running 'high compression pump gas engines' with no problems....
This thread is about somebody who IS having problems.
And THIS threads shows that sometimes it doesn't work. Maybe you are not as smart as you think you are......
Thank-you for allowing us to follow along with your journey. Definitely a learning experience. Thanks again for being a patient teacher. Bob
Aight den. We just got back from town. ZERO detonation there. ZERO detonation luggin hell out of it around town. ZERO detonation on the way back. The temp now runs about 1/8 the way up on the gauge. I have to wonder if even the 180 thermostat was opening all the way. I know from the IR gun evidence the 195 was not opening at all. @yellow rose, here's you a plug picture. Sorry for the crappy focus. I'm not really good at readin um and I know you really should cut the shell off....but I ain't doin that to new plugs. lol Also the second picture is close to where the temp gauge is drivin it. It actually runs more to the left of where it is....about 1/8 the way off the cold line.
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I have a similar issue with my hot 360. It will spark knock/detonate only after its driven for a while and in hot summer weather. Currently have rn12yc would rn9yc be a better choice? Otherwise car runs nice and crisp! Car has 3.91's out back a 9.5" FTI 3400-3600 stall converter. 292/508 mopar cam and higher compression kb107 pistons. Also 340 x heads.Every individual step I've taken so far has made a positive difference. To me, this is hot rodding 101. This is what it's all about. As far as I'm concerned, this is actually a good problem to have. Kinda like tire spin at the strip. You know there's power to be made. With 175 PSI cranking pressure there's a lot of potential for power there. I'm not afraid to try to tune for it and just coincidentally, tuning to get rid of detonation, in this case will help get to that power. I think it's fun. It's a challenge. That's the whole point of me creating this thread. So all of you could follow along and maybe we could all learn something together, whether through my success or failure. As far as I'm concerned, I'm already successful. I can drive the car, everyday and without ever having spark knock. It only does it now when I absolute crowd the hell out of it.....and I've not test driven it since I put the 160 thermostat in last night.
Here's a thought. If any of you don't like this thread and don't appreciate it for its contributions, how about just staying out of it?
I have a similar issue with my hot 360. It will spark knock/detonate only after its driven for a while and in hot summer weather. Currently have rn12yc would rn9yc be a better choice? Otherwise car runs nice and crisp! Car has 3.91's out back a 9.5" FTI 3400-3600 stall converter. 292/508 mopar cam and higher compression kb107 pistons. Also 340 x heads.
Seems to my memory from the 70's, brain cells wasted, that the early \6 had Vacuum RETARD, not advance.
With the crappy 'Reverse' flow head and pisspoor quench the guys at Ma Mopar said you can not run these engines in Advanced timing.
I played this same game as RRR is doing way back in the 70's and gave up on advancing timing.
I also did a piston stop check on my last \6 build and the timing marks were off 7 degrees, advanced from true TDC. The dampener had been replaced some time in the past. I marked correct TDC and put a DC's timing tape on it.
I also suggest turning the carb 90 degrees so the two primary's are feeding evenly. The long front runner is getting a fat load and the rear long runner is lean. By having both primary's up front you exacerbated this miss match front to rear flow.