I know, right? I'm gonna die. lol
Tuning For Detonation
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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I know, right? I'm gonna die. lol
At least I woke to put the dog out!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
WTF are you talking about? I’ve been running high compression pump gas engines since the 1980’s. And I still do it. And I’ve been explaining on FABO how to do it. It aint hard to do and the end result is worth the effort.
Get real bro.
EDIT: I went back and looked for a post where I said ONE WORD about something you posted that was negative. You have issues dude. Don’t be proud of being a mental midget.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I just checked the compression on my street 170, last week. Mine was 165-175, just about the same as yours. My engine is a measured 9.5 to 1 CR. It has the mildest Mopar Performance cam. I don't remember the center line I used (need to find my notes). And we have similar problems. Just a FYI
PS: It seems to like about 30 degrees total, and in the neighborhood of 15 to 20 degrees initial. but as I stated in a previous post, I haven't done any dist recurve yet. and cheated on getting the initial, and total I wanted, by connecting the Vac adv to manifold vacuum.
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That was a bad link for me. If you've been reading, you've seen I did put RN9YC plugs in from RN14YC. That's a pretty big jump. So far, it's idled a LOT tuning on it and they have yet to foul, so I think they're gonna work ok. They also did back off the spark knock a little, too.....just like everything other thing I've done. We're gonna drive it later and see where it is. I haven't driven it since getting total limited to 31. It may be gone, now. I still have a few more things I can do, too.
Thanks, Charlie! That's really close to where my curve is now. Haven't driven it yet, but when I do, I'll report back.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Link no workie
Well, my 160 high flow thermostat was faulty. It wouldn't open. Not even on the stove at 230 degrees. So I had a 195 high flow I stick in it last night. Went to town today. The car ran about 3/4 hot there and back. It normally runs 1/4 to half. So. Got the heat gun out when we got home. right behind the thermostat, under the temp sender it's 179 degrees. The radiator's so efficient, it wasn't letting the thermostat get hot enough to open. lol All the flow it had was the "about" 1/8"bleed hole in the thermostat. If it weren't fer bad luck........went back into town and got an Eddy "high flow" 160 thermostat from Oreally. Got that in now and will drive again tomorrow.
Here's the good news. Until it FINALLY got to about half way on the gauge with the 195 stat, Kitty said no matter how hard I crowded it, there was NO spark knock. We might have it licked. I do have a high quality Stewart Components 160 high flow t stat comin, so I'll replace the Eddy with that. The Eddy "says" it's a high flow, but the hole in it is no bigger than stock. Maybe it opens more? Crapped if I know.
Oh and @kesteb I wanted to tell you I didn't mean what I said personally....not at all. Didn't mean for it to come out like that. ALL I meant was there was NO way I was gonna run manifold heat, come hell or high water. That's all.
Here's the good news. Until it FINALLY got to about half way on the gauge with the 195 stat, Kitty said no matter how hard I crowded it, there was NO spark knock. We might have it licked. I do have a high quality Stewart Components 160 high flow t stat comin, so I'll replace the Eddy with that. The Eddy "says" it's a high flow, but the hole in it is no bigger than stock. Maybe it opens more? Crapped if I know.
Oh and @kesteb I wanted to tell you I didn't mean what I said personally....not at all. Didn't mean for it to come out like that. ALL I meant was there was NO way I was gonna run manifold heat, come hell or high water. That's all.
Well, Yellow Rose, smart fella who claims no problem running 'high compression pump gas engines' with no problems....
This thread is about somebody who IS having problems.
And THIS threads shows that sometimes it doesn't work. Maybe you are not as smart as you think you are......
This thread is about somebody who IS having problems.
And THIS threads shows that sometimes it doesn't work. Maybe you are not as smart as you think you are......
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
i thought this thread was about tuning to get reid of slight detonation, and RRR ant gave up yet,...toooo early to say it "dosen't work" yet i believe!
'One thing to understand is that detonation is not necessarily destructive'
And...
'If you've driven a car that has a lot of spark advance on the freeway, you'll hear it pinging. It can run that way for thousands & thousands of miles.'
These quotes are from a multipage Detonation/Pre-ignition article written by GM engineer A. W. Cline in 2000. You should be able to find the full article on the net.
And...
'If you've driven a car that has a lot of spark advance on the freeway, you'll hear it pinging. It can run that way for thousands & thousands of miles.'
These quotes are from a multipage Detonation/Pre-ignition article written by GM engineer A. W. Cline in 2000. You should be able to find the full article on the net.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Yeah I cant get it to open either. Matter of fact Autolite.com wont open period . Hmmm.
Sounds like you on the right track though. GL
Every individual step I've taken so far has made a positive difference. To me, this is hot rodding 101. This is what it's all about. As far as I'm concerned, this is actually a good problem to have. Kinda like tire spin at the strip. You know there's power to be made. With 175 PSI cranking pressure there's a lot of potential for power there. I'm not afraid to try to tune for it and just coincidentally, tuning to get rid of detonation, in this case will help get to that power. I think it's fun. It's a challenge. That's the whole point of me creating this thread. So all of you could follow along and maybe we could all learn something together, whether through my success or failure. As far as I'm concerned, I'm already successful. I can drive the car, everyday and without ever having spark knock. It only does it now when I absolute crowd the hell out of it.....and I've not test driven it since I put the 160 thermostat in last night.
Here's a thought. If any of you don't like this thread and don't appreciate it for its contributions, how about just staying out of it?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Aight den. We just got back from town. ZERO detonation there. ZERO detonation luggin hell out of it around town. ZERO detonation on the way back. The temp now runs about 1/8 the way up on the gauge. I have to wonder if even the 180 thermostat was opening all the way. I know from the IR gun evidence the 195 was not opening at all. @yellow rose, here's you a plug picture. Sorry for the crappy focus. I'm not really good at readin um and I know you really should cut the shell off....but I ain't doin that to new plugs. lol Also the second picture is close to where the temp gauge is drivin it. It actually runs more to the left of where it is....about 1/8 the way off the cold line.
abdywgn
dismantler
Thank-you for allowing us to follow along with your journey. Definitely a learning experience. Thanks again for being a patient teacher. Bob
Teacher? Ha! You give me way too much credit. I'm just doin what "I" know to do with some much appreciated input from @yellow rose and everyone else.
Nice ! 
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Hot damn that plug looks bitchin’. I’d love to see the fuel ring in the bottom but you’ve got it pretty tight!!!
JUST FRIGGING AWESOME
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Seems to my memory from the 70's, brain cells wasted, that the early \6 had Vacuum RETARD, not advance.
With the crappy 'Reverse' flow head and pisspoor quench the guys at Ma Mopar said you can not run these engines in Advanced timing.
I played this same game as RRR is doing way back in the 70's and gave up on advancing timing.
I also did a piston stop check on my last \6 build and the timing marks were off 7 degrees, advanced from true TDC. The dampener had been replaced some time in the past. I marked correct TDC and put a DC's timing tape on it.
I also suggest turning the carb 90 degrees so the two primary's are feeding evenly. The long front runner is getting a fat load and the rear long runner is lean. By having both primary's up front you exacerbated this miss match front to rear flow.
With the crappy 'Reverse' flow head and pisspoor quench the guys at Ma Mopar said you can not run these engines in Advanced timing.
I played this same game as RRR is doing way back in the 70's and gave up on advancing timing.
I also did a piston stop check on my last \6 build and the timing marks were off 7 degrees, advanced from true TDC. The dampener had been replaced some time in the past. I marked correct TDC and put a DC's timing tape on it.
I also suggest turning the carb 90 degrees so the two primary's are feeding evenly. The long front runner is getting a fat load and the rear long runner is lean. By having both primary's up front you exacerbated this miss match front to rear flow.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
I have a similar issue with my hot 360. It will spark knock/detonate only after its driven for a while and in hot summer weather. Currently have rn12yc would rn9yc be a better choice? Otherwise car runs nice and crisp! Car has 3.91's out back a 9.5" FTI 3400-3600 stall converter. 292/508 mopar cam and higher compression kb107 pistons. Also 340 x heads.
Maybe. Give me some more details. Cam specs, cranking compression number if you have it. Where is initial timing and total timing and when (RPM) does it get total timing? What intake manifold? If it's a dual plane, did you block the heat cross over?
In short, anything you can do to make the cooling system more efficient and to cool the intake charge will help a lot. Each individual step I took with mine helped. If I had to point to one step that helped the most, it was the thermostat.
I've never known them to retard timing with vacuum.
Be that as it may, you're right about the early chamber. They sucked. That could be some of the why. Although, with 175 PSI I kinda think that was most of it. But surely, a more efficient chamber would help. And no slant six ever had any form of quench. There was what they called a "revised" chamber in 68 I think it was, but there was no quench involved. Not with the stock piston at least .150" in the hole. lol Ain't happenin.
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