At low rpm, say an idle of 1000 rpm or so and at lower end of rpm’s burbling around. Aftermarket or oem parts store.....Most amps, You know the gist. Either using the existing brackets for straight bolt on, or minor reworking like a bend or two, maybe grinding for clearance, basic wiring mods (Not re-engineering the whole dadgum setup including new pulleys etc!!) The old case one or two wire Chrysler versions, the later Denso, or even GM. Don’t care, want amp output down low. What are you using that puts out more amps down low, what sort of mild mods did you do to make it work if any.
Alternators “Kick Out The Amps Brothers And Sisters”
- Thread starter 12many
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That might be tough in today's market of chineseoisation, but years ago, so far as traditional Mopar, the 45? 47?A unit had better low rpm output. I'm sure some of the modern "Denso" style are better
I know there are a few here, or that lurk here that need the same as I to run a fan or two, a fuel pump, ignition etc and need enough amps overall (at least 80+/-) but more importantly need the output down low where things can come up short. Power master Tuff Stuff and so forth have so many listing but damn I wish they’d give info on low rpm output as well as overall. I guess I could call them and hope I get the strait and narrow vs hearing what I want to hear knowing the caveats etc. Actual user feedback is more useful and carries weight so...
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Look for a hairpin or 6 phase alternator I use a DCDC make puts out 160 Amps at 1000rpm they make a Chrysler unit also mechman.com can get very expensive also increased current output needs a suitable drive belt
Keep in mind and I'm sure you know, it's more about the wiring as well. You don't want to burn somethin down.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
We run a 300amp from these guys on our race truck.
DC Power Inc. - High Output Alternators!
How far do you want to go?
Just FYI any more than 30% above the stock 45 or so amps and your gonna melt down wiring, bulkhead connections, amp meter, etc. And any LOAD 20% or so above stock, stereo, electric fans etc will cause the same problems. Start with a MAD electrical diagram and understand why the bypass is done and then upgrade your system accordingly, starting with the wiring. Then maybe look into a 65 amp police alternator or something like that.
DC Power Inc. - High Output Alternators!
How far do you want to go?
Just FYI any more than 30% above the stock 45 or so amps and your gonna melt down wiring, bulkhead connections, amp meter, etc. And any LOAD 20% or so above stock, stereo, electric fans etc will cause the same problems. Start with a MAD electrical diagram and understand why the bypass is done and then upgrade your system accordingly, starting with the wiring. Then maybe look into a 65 amp police alternator or something like that.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I’ll also add that I ran a delco 12si on my falcon. NOT set up for one wire, I kept the idiot light and sense circuit active and run to my main power lug at the solenoid and it puts out 95amps. Very easy to adapt to almost anything. There is lots of wiring info on the www.
With a 54 year old vehicle, burning something down is always a concern!
With a 54 year old vehicle, burning something down is always a concern!
Yes it is.
I’ve got all upgraded charging wiring. 6 gauge from alternator to SW ammeter to battery with fusible link as needed, proper grounds etc it’s all good on that front. Headlights, running lights are the only old wiring, no heat, wipers or stereo. I’ve got about 45 amp load with radiator fan, trans cooler fan (intermittent) and then the fuel pump and the ignition, then occasionally old lighting with the old wiring
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
How bout a pulley change? Just thinking out loud.
Got CVF larger crank pulley to overdrive CVF alt and wp pulleys. $$$ invested in that so I have to work on other areas to maybe improve things
Just hoping some people chime in with any info on an alternator(s) that delivers the goods as far as what I’m looking for. So many posts here and elsewhere about high amp versions that put out at upper rpm’s but scant few that mention ones that put out low as well as enough up high...
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I run a rewound all-new US made CS144 with dual bridge rectifiers on my 1970 440-6, E-body. I painted it satin black and no one has ever noticed its not a Mopar unit. This is the big unit that comes in Escalades and Suburbans etc. They make much stronger ones with remote mounted bridge rectifiers too.
It puts out over 120amps at a low idle over 220 amps at a fast idle. Bought a small bracket to mount it (see photo) and had to use a longer bolts and spacers to fit the lower bracket. I also had to shim everything slightly to line up the pulleys lazer straight.
I rewired my car using the Mad Electric theories as a starting point, and used 2 gauge cables for power and ground from the alternator with Marine Grade fusing. "00" Gauge welding cables for positive and grounds to the batteries and starter.
It puts out over 120amps at a low idle over 220 amps at a fast idle. Bought a small bracket to mount it (see photo) and had to use a longer bolts and spacers to fit the lower bracket. I also had to shim everything slightly to line up the pulleys lazer straight.
I rewired my car using the Mad Electric theories as a starting point, and used 2 gauge cables for power and ground from the alternator with Marine Grade fusing. "00" Gauge welding cables for positive and grounds to the batteries and starter.
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Same i use the DC Power 320 Amp on 1 vehicle 00 cable from Alternator to 250 Amp Fuse then directly to Battery positive
Battery Ground 00 battery to chassis then 00 to engine ground
120 Amp circuit breaker from battery through firewall to a isolated bind post that then supplies the fuse box for each circuit
Using the Odyssey 70 amp/hr battery have found the alternator will only charge at around 140 amps max as soon as the voltage increases the charge current will drop down to around 60 amps .
Charge rate is also affected by the crank pulley & alternator pulley diameter .
If you are worried about any overloaded circuits then borrow a flir camera from someone & check under the dash for hot spots when the wiring fully loaded we use this method for fault finding in Industrial circuits for bad connections.
Included a couple of flir pics 1 of the high beam switch & 1 of the fuse block no problems with this vehicle but the flir says different on inspection the fuse had a bad connection potential fire
Battery Ground 00 battery to chassis then 00 to engine ground
120 Amp circuit breaker from battery through firewall to a isolated bind post that then supplies the fuse box for each circuit
Using the Odyssey 70 amp/hr battery have found the alternator will only charge at around 140 amps max as soon as the voltage increases the charge current will drop down to around 60 amps .
Charge rate is also affected by the crank pulley & alternator pulley diameter .
If you are worried about any overloaded circuits then borrow a flir camera from someone & check under the dash for hot spots when the wiring fully loaded we use this method for fault finding in Industrial circuits for bad connections.
Included a couple of flir pics 1 of the high beam switch & 1 of the fuse block no problems with this vehicle but the flir says different on inspection the fuse had a bad connection potential fire
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Where did you get it? And if you don’t mind saying how much was it?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
@12many I Have no experience with them but a quick search came up with Tuff Stuff. Made in USA and they have 60A-130A
squarebacks. Might be worth checking them out.
1972 Dodge Dart V8 5.2 318
squarebacks. Might be worth checking them out.
1972 Dodge Dart V8 5.2 318
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I would also do the Madd headlight relay upgrade. Good luck with your search.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Would you, or anybody that’s done this swap have the depth from the back side of the alt to the middle of the first pulley groove? And how far it sticks out on the passenger side (measured from the center of the water pump pulley locating nub to the outside of the alternator)
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jbc426
Well-Known Member
Here is where I bought my alternators, one for my Mopar and one for my 2008 GMC, which I put a stereo with 5 separate amps in.
USA Built High Output Alternator, Upgrades, Parts, Kits
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
BB or Sb ? I used a denso 60Amp with the factory brackets on my 440 . You just have to make different shims. Bought shim stock here.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
Well after a crash course here and elsewhere I decided on an O’Reily Ultima brand 70 amp (for a 1988 Toyota 4Runner 4-cyl) model# 14668. Lifetime warranty so possible quality or longevity down the road is not a concern. I now have a pulley ratio of about 2.3 (6” crank/2.625” alt) and with an engine idle of 900-1000 rpm in gear so by the looks of the test report that came with the alternator I should have available well over 50 amps (closer to 60 if my math is correct!) Output higher up not an issue either. While I could buy the AREngineering mounting kit it’s on to fabricating them out of some extra alloy engine plate stock I have and such, misc. wiring etc. Will report back with progress and results later
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Thanks.
Nothing ground breaking here, just what I did to fit the Denso 70 amp. I already had the oem style reproduction small block alternator bracket kit, reused the two long bracket to water pump/cover bolts, and the long bolt for the alternator to head, all washers, only had to cut down the long spacer to 1.800”. Made a 1/4” aluminum bracket (after some cardboard template fun) and drilled the three holes. Reused the long adjuster bracket as is, installed a .500” spacer between the bracket and alt and scrounged up a metric bolt for securing it to the tab. As far as mounting goes that’s it. Existing 6ga alt to battery cable fit right on, just have to run the keyed and source wires. Might be able to reuse the wires in place that go to the regulator (pitch that of course) just splice in what I need for that. Pretty simple so far. Fingers crossed
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