Alternators “Kick Out The Amps Brothers And Sisters”

[mopowers]

I bet that'll work. FWIW, here's the test report that came with my 90A land cruiser alternator (#210-0177)

 

[12many]

All buttoned up. Used the existing field wire and stubbed on extra wire under dash and at alternator for switched voltage. Ran a wire to connect at the starter relay for sense battery voltage. Need to order the proper plug for connecting at the alt but other than that it’s good, damn simple. Working great so far, lights don’t dim much if at all from what I can see in the garage with everything on at idle and at my cruising rpm’s looks like I should have good headroom regardless of what’s “on”...Wow! Thanks to those who’ve posted here and elsewhere on this Denso retrofit. Wish I’d only done it sooner! Cant wait to hit the road

 

[Hysteric]

Have you measured the voltage at idle?

 

[12many]

Running an ammeter but checked with a multimeter with Crane HI-6N ignition and Carter fuel pump (both on lower end of amp draw) running at 1000 rpm I’m getting about 14.4. Turning the Derale fan on (24 amp on high) it dropped down to upper 12’s but immediately rose back to 14.4. I’m thinking so far damn good

 

[Hysteric]

Running an ammeter but checked with a multimeter with Crane HI-6N ignition and Carter fuel pump running at 1000 rpm I’m getting about 14.4. Turning the Derale fan on (24 amp on high) it dropped down to upper 12’s but immediately rose back to 14.4. I’m thinking so far damn good

I'm also running a crane HI-6 and PS-92 coil which I was told require 14+ to work correctly. I've seen a slight drop in voltage change the combustion at idle to where it fouled plugs and wouldn't seal the rings properly if it dropped too low on the rpm's. 14.4 is ideal!

The Denso has a voltage sense wire does it not?

 

[12many]

I'm also running a crane HI-6 and PS-92 coil which I was told require 14+ to work correctly. I've seen a slight drop in voltage change the combustion at idle to where it fouled plugs and wouldn't seal the rings properly if it dropped too low on the rpm's. 14.4 is ideal!

The Denso has a voltage sense wire does it not?

Yes it does have a sense wire, mines right at the battery essentially. The Crane ignition (analog, NASCAR version) I have with matching coil paperwork mentions that it will perform down below 8 volts, which was the driving factor in my using it in this 54 year old van, with the crappy charging at idle etc using the old style alternators. I tried a GM HEI conversion way back when I had a slant six in it and it wouldn’t start at times let alone run at idle due to the old everything electrical, low voltage and excessive draw etc. so I went back to the Chrysler electronic ignition and had no issues other than pathetic idle and low speed charging. But since doing the stroker, drag racing etc using the Crane ive had no issues. But I’ve added fans and actually reverted back to a mechanical water pump from an electric Moroso as the charging system couldn’t handle it all. I have no wipers or heat components in it but if I ever reinstall I’m confident what I have now will handle it. But it’s only day one so time will tell.....

 

[pishta]

Dodge Ram 160A , pull the rib pulley and install the V-belt pulley. Run it at 3X motor speed per website. at idle itll push ~90A and you can isolate your cars sensitive wiring with a current limited leg.

 

[Hysteric]

Yes it does have a sense wire, mines right at the battery essentially. The Crane ignition (analog, NASCAR version) I have with matching coil paperwork mentions that it will perform down below 8 volts,

They work but not optimally. From what I've read and understand from guys that have spent a lot of time tuning race engines different ignition types prefer different fueling ie richer vs leaner and when you improve the mixture quality. CDI being the better of the 2 when chasing power.

 

[12many]

They work but not optimally. From what I've read and understand from guys that have spent a lot of time tuning race engines different ignition types prefer different fueling ie richer vs leaner and when you improve the mixture quality. CDI being the better of the 2 when chasing power.

All of that makes sense, although I’m at a much lower level in all this to where I really wouldn’t be able to notice any difference or need more than what I have, hell, I don’t know any better! That Crane made mention of it still working at lower voltages and that it was at a blowout closeout price was all I needed! But this alternator swap, man, what a revelation after decades and multiple Mopars and for the most part pitiful charging!!

 

[Hysteric]

The Crane is a very good unit. I saw a distinct difference in idle quality when I swapped the MSD 6AL out for the Crane. I've seen a drop of .5 volts on my car make a difference in idle quality and even cause it to misfire as a result. It all started when I changed the pulley size to stop the fan belt coming of at the top end of the track

 

[j par]

I went down this road a little bit last year when I put AC in the car. I just started piling on the electrical stuff with an electric fan for the radiator one for the condenser electric fuel pump blah blah blah....
I ended up getting the tough stuff I think 90 or 95 amp alternator... None of them seems to do good at low RPMs so but the other end of the wires I put a Optuma yellow top battery.. they're kind of hybrid battery somewhere between the red top and their marine blue top.. that way it lower RPMs and my thoughts when the alternator isn't keeping up the battery will and when I speed up everything catches up... Haven't had any problems...

 

[my68barracuda]

Dodge Ram 160A , pull the rib pulley and install the V-belt pulley. Run it at 3X motor speed per website. at idle itll push ~90A and you can isolate your cars sensitive wiring with a current limited leg.

Pishta what do you mean by ‘isolate sensitive wiring with a current limiting leg’?

 

[pishta]

if your juicing your entire harness with 140+ amps, youll need to beef up the weak links, ie the amp meter and the feed wire gauge, but remember that anything will only draw what it needs (or can if it shorts, use fuses!). You can use some big 36-50W resistors in parallel
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/res_4.html
but it depends on what the amp draw of the devices needs to be. So you could make a high current circuit for your amp, your winch, your 50A (inrush) electric fan array and then keep your dash on a limited leg. ITs not so much as limiting the current (they only take what they need) its making the circuit that gets the power to the device up to snuff. You wont see 18G starter cable, and you wont see 6G headlight feeds. Build to spec.

 

[Furious65]

Glad you found what you needed and everything is working good.

Just for future reference... I've been looking for an alt that can put a lot out at idle, as my car will have very high electrical demands, and came across Quality Power's billet alternators that are actually built for our Mopars. Smallest one puts out 150 amps and 120 at idle. Largest is 320 amps and 180 at idle! Not cheap but it all depends on what you're doing with your car. Chrysler Mopar High Output Billet Alternator

 

[12many]

Cheap parts store stigma aside (although it was about $87 +tax/core = $120) this Denso 70 amp does the job with room to spare for my setup. Running a Derale trans cooler/fan (5 amps) Derale radiator fan (24 amps) Crane Hi-6 ign (2-6 amps) and Carter P4594 electric fuel pump (approx 5 amps) Actual combined load is about 40 amps. Getting about 14.4 volts @ 1000/900 rpm idle in park/in gear with everything running, even with lights the same as well as rolling at various rpm. Ammeter indicates approx 50 amps (best I can tell) with everything on. So Yes....”It Works, It Works”