Steering effort for manual 16:1 - should it be this high?

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I just want to point out that the small diameter steering wheel is the easiest thing to change, and will have a large effect on perceived effort.

The whole point of a small steering wheel is that it enables quick turning WHEN YOU HAVE LIGHT STEERING EFFORT (as in a go-kart or small sports car). But the entire rest of your set-up is creating HIGH steering effort. So something has to give. If you are really in love with that wheel, I think you will have to go to power steering. The Borgeson quick ratio system is very nice — I have it in my convertible. My fastback has a factory manual box (24:1) and a stock steering wheel with 215/70-14 tires, and I find that makes for very heavy steering getting out of parking places, plus it is too slow to keep up with hairpin switchbacks on the road, which the Borgeson handles easily.
 
I put a 16:1 PST manual box on my 67 b-body. I had to pull it right back off because it had some slop in the sector shaft. I will say though, I was surprised how easy it was to turn the wheels in the garage standing still. Much easier than a PS box without the engine running. I could do a 1/4 turn on the wheel with one hand, factory steering wheel. 225/70 tires on the front and the air pressure is a little low.
Now...I need to put the replacement box on the car and it is a little tighter than the first box I had on the car, but I don't see that making a huge difference.
 
Dana67Dart said:
IIRC there is a 20-1 box out there.

There are also quick ratio idler and pitman arms, (iirc with 16:1 box and quick ratio pitman you get 12:1 or there abouts)are you sure your pitman is OEM non quick ratio?

I am no suspension guru, but doesn't caster keep the car driving streight, which for autocross would not seem to be a need.
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It helps with good steering return as well, which is also a good benefit to have racing. That's what causes the wheel to want to return to center. Positive caster. But, a lot of serious road racing vehicles do run very low and even negative caster. It all depends on what you're doing.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It helps with good steering return as well, which is also a good benefit to have racing. That's what causes the wheel to want to return to center. Positive caster. But, a lot of serious road racing vehicles do run very low and even negative caster. It all depends on what you're doing.
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Lots of good information here, I would like to add. The tire size here seems to be the largest downfall in this app. I have a 72' Dodge B-300 van that I installed TA G60's on a 15" US-Indy rim(special ordered). About every 3 years I need to have the frame at the gearbox welded, due to cracks. Never had that problem with the stock tires. The wider tire takes much more effort to move then the thinner ones. I like my profile of the van, so this is what I have to live with. Enjoy!!!!
 
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you can adapt about anything.....Is that Borgeson power box a bolt in? thats tiny!
 
pishta said:
you can adapt about anything.....
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yup, just got this working
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My 383 4-speed '68 GTS has a 16:1 box with fast ratio arms. G70-14 polyglass on the front. It has the original steering wheel and 100% stock front end, iron heads and exhaust manifolds. It's heavy and quite fun. Definitelt takes some muscle and finess in a stick car. That steering wheel is killing your good time IMO. Look at quarter max or speedway for a bigger wheel in that style.
 
Jeremiah said:
My 383 4-speed '68 GTS has a 16:1 box with fast ratio arms. G70-14 polyglass on the front. It has the original steering wheel and 100% stock front end, iron heads and exhaust manifolds. It's heavy and quite fun. Definitelt takes some muscle and finess in a stick car. That steering wheel is killing your good time IMO. Look at quarter max or speedway for a bigger wheel in that style.
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Good point about the stick shift. Those moments when you only have one hand on the wheel could be problematic at times.
 
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MRGTX said:
how do you like it? I have no idea what kind of current something like this might draw. Did you need to upgrade the alternator or anything else?
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only done one test drive so far but it's just right. full assist is firmer than a stock 60's P/S setup, not over boosted, but still 1 armed parking lot doable. with the assist at it's lowest it's almost as if it's off. i used a kit from EPAS Performance. it's a very nice set up and if i'd used the stock column, and just followed their instructions, it would have gone easy. since i had an IDIDIT tilt column i wanted to use, i managed to over complicate it, much to my enjoyment :D. also the floor plate for their kit is only for a 65'. they didn't realize all the different A-body floor plates that were used. i've sent them the info to correct that. i just made my own from 3/8" aluminum. as far as the alternator, i already have a 75A powermaster with a lot of re-wiring. supposedly this only draws 9A max
edit: 15" steering wheel
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kursplat said:
only done one test drive so far but it's just right. full assist is firmer than a stock 60's P/S setup, not over boosted, but still 1 armed parking lot doable. with the assist at it's lowest it's almost as if it's off. i used a kit from EPAS Performance. it's a very nice set up and if i'd used the stock column, and just followed their instructions, it would have gone easy. since i had an IDIDIT tilt column i wanted to use, i managed to over complicate it, much to my enjoyment :D. also the floor plate for their kit is only for a 65'. they didn't realize all the different A-body floor plates that were used. i've sent them the info to correct that. i just made my own from 3/8" aluminum. as far as the alternator, i already have a 75A powermaster with a lot of re-wiring. supposedly this only draws 9A max
edit: 15" steering wheel
View attachment 1715769724
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Sounds like a great option. Thanks for the info on this. It looks like these systems are over a grand new. I’ll keep an eye out for a used one as a possibility…

Also, well done on helping them out with the technical info.
 
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