Disappointed with my engine

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Because you couldn't pick the right cam for it. LOL You piss into the wind ..and if you don't catch it in the face... you call it a success!
I don't see what your fantasies have to do with any of this LOL
 
Welcome to hot rodding! Track time and carb tuning, ignition timing changes, practice! After that blend in 2” valves into the heads, shave heads & increase compression to match pistons with dome quench, higher octane fuel, port and polish, convert to mechanical secondaries.
 
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I think it is 90% with your heads. With those internal parts, you should be well over 300HP.
Imagine this. Let's say you have a 500+HP 383. It runs great and you are happy with it. It has good Edelbrock heads that have been ported. So what would happen if you pulled those heads and put on the crappiest 383 heads there are; something out of a 383 2 barrel station wagon with small valves and crappy breathing. How do you think it would run? I could be wrong, but "crappy" small valve J heads are not helping.
 
The OP was given plenty of reasons why his car is slow, and then he explained why we are all wrong. He’s on his own.
 
Yeah granted small block Mopar heads are not great when compared to a modern cylinder head but one of the best small block heads available when they were built . Why are you running a small 194?
Small block Mopar heads were pretty much better than anything other manufacturers had at the time for stock passenger car heads. The fact is, they "ain't too bad".
 
The OP was given plenty of reasons why his car is slow, and then he explained why we are all wrong. He’s on his own.
Yes, I agree. It tires me so when people argue after asking for help. I have an "off" switch and am learning more and more how to use it.
 
Thanks for your input. A Slingshot is nothing like your heavy door cars to run. Time and tine again it's been shown headers make no difference to ET over Zoomies. For a car that's just for fun like mine, converter selection isn't as critical as it is with your heavy tin tops - we just don't have the mass to shift off the line and we don't have suspension and stuff to think about - we tune the lauch with tyre pressures wheelie bar adjustment and the addition of some weight on the nose depending on the track. In the early 1980's I ran one of the popular at that time tall econo drsgster type scoops which was sealed tight and picked up three tenths and 6 mph but the suggested pressurization of the vents/ fuel bowls is something I'll look further into. Wonder what the blow through turbo guys do ??? Moving to Chrysler has been a learning experience - I've learnt the hard way that the oiling system needs a bit of thought to keep bearings and crank in nice shape. Pity about the heads. I do get it - they're like a gaint kink in the garden hose.
Thanks for your thoughts
Cheers
Whenever you change valves or do any port work...you really should flow test the heads to see what you did, good or bad. If you did have numbers on these heads, and they were good, then you can easily move to something else in the tune or camshaft/induction area.
With a 1.94 intake valve in some j's or 974's blended/ported you can expect to see 260's cfm by .500- .550 with [email protected] and [email protected] etc... in other words.. they should perform well. If the heads are just simply cut for 1.94s...then they would be a hindrance. When you know what the heads do.. you'll know what the motor can do if right.
 
With a .570+ lift what is the lash ? your probably only seeing .545 or so at the valve. That motor should pull hard down low, have you ever tried to launch it in second gear ?
 
The OP was given plenty of reasons why his car is slow, and then he explained why we are all wrong. He’s on his own.

Well Mate it's called discussion, I listen to you and then I respond. I did ask for further info on your thinking about the vents becoming pressurized causing the fuel to be forced through the carb but no reply. If there had been I would have taken it on board especially considering ny past experience putting both together and replied. I don't think any one individual is right about everything.
 
Welcome to hot rodding! Track time and carb tuning, ignition timing changes, practice! After that blend in 2” valves into the heads, shave heads & increase compression to match pistons with dome quench, higher octane fuel, port and polish, convert to mechanical secondaries.

Yes seat time is a big issue. My local track is now closed so it's a 5 hour trip each way to my closest track. Travelling up Friday, accomadation friday night, run Saturday, accommodation Saturday night, tow home Sunday, severely limits the number of times I can run each year.
 
Yes, I agree. It tires me so when people argue after asking for help. I have an "off" switch and am learning more and more how to use it.

Okay Mr Rusty RR what was your input?
Was it you that said Mopar heads were the pick of the bunch way back when ? Ha ha ha what a joke. Have you ever looked at a Ford Cleveland from 1971 - 86. I don't think you guys had 302 C in the US did you? Maybe you should have said that they have a higher exhaust port than a Chev which would have made them the pick of a bad bunch It was inferred by myself in my origional post the heads were the issue.
The other thing you suggested was overall car set up. I'm 64 mate and first went down a racetrack in a FED more than 40 years ago. I can promise you this, there is Zero, did you get that, Zero, similarity between a door car set-up and a 1400 lbs slingshot. None.
I welcome your and anybody else's input but keep it real.
 
Yep we had a lot of Boss 302 Mustangs made right here in Cleveland about 30 miles from me. Also boss 351 mustangs here is a picture of my friends that I did the motor on. This was about 25 years ago, Yes that is my AAR sitting next to it.

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With a .570+ lift what is the lash ? your probably only seeing .545 or so at the valve. That motor should pull hard down low, have you ever tried to launch it in second gear ?

.018 hot. Yes I have tried to launch in 2nd gear when I had 31" tyre. No advantage
 
Well Mate it's called discussion, I listen to you and then I respond. I did ask for further info on your thinking about the vents becoming pressurized causing the fuel to be forced through the carb but no reply. If there had been I would have taken it on board especially considering ny past experience putting both together and replied. I don't think any one individual is right about everything.


First off, your headers are just junk. I don’t know how many times that needs to be repeated, but that’s all they are. If you have no grasp of how overlap works, and how in a wedge headed engine how hard it is to get, and get it right, then me explaining it won’t do you any good. You have killed ANY overlap you may have had with that header, and yes you need overlap. You can claim you’ve tried real headers and that they made nothing over a set of zoomies, but I’ve tested it many more times than you, and not once, not even once was a zoomie anywhere near a correctly sized, tuned header with a collector. Until you fix that, the rest of it doesn’t matter.

As for that little scoop, in dirty air (its way too low) you don’t have near enough volume over the carb. When there is essentially no plenum over the carb, the air speed goes up through the carb, the boosters pull too much fuel and you pressurize the vents/bowls and it blows even more fuel through the boosters.

That’s an explanation of two obvious things I see. There is no argument your headers are worthless. That’s just a fact, even if you fail to recognize it. Zoomie headers are for power adders (specifically a roots blower, maybe a Pro Charger) and sometimes they work with nitrous. Other than that they are wall hangers.
 
First off, your headers are just junk. I don’t know how many times that needs to be repeated, but that’s all they are. If you have no grasp of how overlap works, and how in a wedge headed engine how hard it is to get, and get it right, then me explaining it won’t do you any good. You have killed ANY overlap you may have had with that header, and yes you need overlap. You can claim you’ve tried real headers and that they made nothing over a set of zoomies, but I’ve tested it many more times than you, and not once, not even once was a zoomie anywhere near a correctly sized, tuned header with a collector. Until you fix that, the rest of it doesn’t matter.

As for that little scoop, in dirty air (its way too low) you don’t have near enough volume over the carb. When there is essentially no plenum over the carb, the air speed goes up through the carb, the boosters pull too much fuel and you pressurize the vents/bowls and it blows even more fuel through the boosters.

That’s an explanation of two obvious things I see. There is no argument your headers are worthless. That’s just a fact, even if you fail to recognize it. Zoomie headers are for power adders (specifically a roots blower, maybe a Pro Charger) and sometimes they work with nitrous. Other than that they are wall hangers.

Like I said Mate it's called a discussion. I'm not talking fancy dyno results I'm talking real world outcomes and as I said there is zero similarity between a 14 or 1500 lb FED and your door car. The scoop isn't sealed so it doesn't offer anything or very little on the way of ram air.
You come across as a smart arse know it all incapable of discussion.
 
Like I said Mate it's called a discussion. I'm not talking fancy dyno results I'm talking real world outcomes and as I said there is zero similarity between a 14 or 1500 lb FED and your door car. The scoop isn't sealed so it doesn't offer anything or very little on the way of ram air.
You come across as a smart arse know it all incapable of discussion.


No, you are incapable of a discussion. I didn’t just test headers on a dyno. It’s also done at the track. The issue is you are so consumed with the thought that your car is so different from any other car on here you can’t see the forest for the trees. I’ll say it again. You are killing all your power at just below peak torque all the way to peak power with your headers. It’s that simple. You may not like that, but that’s what it is. The physics that make your RED run and move don’t change from a door car. To continue on that path just reinforces your inherent biases and cause you to strain at a camel to swallow a gnat. There isn’t a NA engine I know of that benefits from a zoomie header. And if it is, it’s a hemi and I doubt that. You can’t kill the overlap cycle and make power, and the hemi head has by far the best overlap cycle out there. You don’t have a hemi, or a canted valve wedge. You have an inline wedge head which the has the worst overlap flow going. Again, your headers are killing power. The chassis they are in makes no difference. If you are swapping out the zoomies and not gaining power, it’s likely your cam timing is as funky as your thinking on headers, overlap flow and overall air flow through an engine. Cam timing and header design go hand in hand. As for the “ram” air effect, that’s not what I’m talking about. Did you even bother to consider what I said about volume above the carb? It matters. Unless the unsealed part of the scoop has the same area as the opening does, it will still pressurize the VENTS and cause the engine to go dead rich at speed. You can’t put pressure on the vents of a carb unless you are doing it for a reason, like a blow through application. If you want to have a reasonable discussion with me, you have to get off your preconceived (and ill conceived) notions that dyno’s are “fancy” and don’t relate to the unicorn you happen to ride. When you do that, we can have a proper discussion. Until then, continue on as you’ve been doing. Your success is magnificent.
 
I have a .040 over 360. Has **** J heads with 1.94 valves KB 190 pistons (small domes ). I have a Vertex mag, M1 intake and currently a 870 street advenger which is a vac secondary deal (carb needs further tuning). I have a Comp Cams Xe280r camshaft - I.570 242@ .050 and E .576 248 @ .050 installed straight up. Revs happily I've seen 7,000 on the tell tale. I have an 8" Turbo Action converter that flashes up toward 5000 and 4.33 gears. Car is very very light 1500lbs and it runs 6.3 on the 1/8 so that tells me it's only making 300 hp WTF ? I would think it should run well into.the 5's. What have I missed?
Way too much carb. I have a 670 on my 383 Road Runner. works great.
 
I have a .040 over 360. Has **** J heads with 1.94 valves KB 190 pistons (small domes ). I have a Vertex mag, M1 intake and currently a 870 street advenger which is a vac secondary deal (carb needs further tuning). I have a Comp Cams Xe280r camshaft - I.570 242@ .050 and E .576 248 @ .050 installed straight up. Revs happily I've seen 7,000 on the tell tale. I have an 8" Turbo Action converter that flashes up toward 5000 and 4.33 gears. Car is very very light 1500lbs and it runs 6.3 on the 1/8 so that tells me it's only making 300 hp WTF ? I would think it should run well into.the 5's. What have I missed?
it sounds like u have missed match componates

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