Prepping an "early" (~1966) 727 for truck use

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MopaR&D

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This is somewhat related to another current thread but I'm willing to go a few different routes depending on the advice I get. I have a '72 D200 pickup currently with a 360 and 727 (2wd). I recently picked up a 440 core which I plan to rebuild and swap into the truck. I also picked up a big block 727 which I was told is a 1966 transmission. Now I've heard and seen in some videos (Precision Transmission on YouTube) that the early transmissions have a shorter bushing in the front pump(drum? idk the nomenclature) which should be replaced with the later setup because it is wider and stronger/longer lasting. Would it be worthwhile to swap those parts over from my SB 727 or should I buy the parts separately? It would be a pain because the truck is currently running and driving and I'd rather not pull the trans and have it sitting undriveable for months while I build the BB transmission. What would you guys recommend?
 
This is the video where it gets mentioned (LOTS of other tips too), starts around 6:15...

 
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I would also update it to a later valve body with part throttle kickdown.
 
They might be referring to the early vs the later front pump as to accepting later (68-later) converters?
 
Use it as it is, was set up good from the factory. Those years hit hard on each gear change. I’ll add, each trans is set up with clutches and springs for the engine it’s hooked to. 383-361 trans will be different than a 440 trans in that aspect. The small block trans is either 318-340 or 360, and also have different pieces. Get a service manual, it will show what to use.
 
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Use it as it is, was set up good from the factory. Those years hit hard on each gear change. I’ll add, each trans is set up with clutches and springs for the engine it’s hooked to. 383-361 trans will be different than a 440 trans in that aspect. The small block trans is either 318-340 or 360, and also have different pieces. Get a service manual, it will show what to use.

See I was told it was behind a RB but you couldn't get a 440 in a '66 Charger. I do have a 1970 Plymouth service manual I'll take a look at the specs it gives. Thanks to YouTube teardown videos these transmissions actually look like something I can handle pulling apart, at least partially. I won't go near a 48RE though hahaha

The part in the video I'm referring to specifically is actually at 6:15, "early and late model front direct drum bushing"

Regardless of what valve body I run I'm gonna put a TF-2 shift kit in it. I have some experience with that stuff as last summer the valve body casting in my '70 Duster's 904 cracked and I ended up swapping to a later-model VB with some at-home mods I learned from the folks around here actually (removing check balls and drilling out separator plate holes). The VB in my 1972 truck trans as well as the 904 in my Duster have part-throttle kickdown which is really nice as the part-throttle upshifts are super early like all Torqueflites... that's really annoying btw any way to bump up the light-throttle 1-2 shift RPM?
 
“See I was told it was behind a RB but you couldn't get a 440 in a '66 Charger“
But a 440 did come in a C body, as long as the clutch pack matches the spring pack (for the engine) you’ll be fine, it’s all about engine torque and 2nd-3rd gear overlap. 727 is a piece of cake, go for it.

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The springs make up the difference between low and high performance 440, I’d just use the 10 spring setup
 
Don't gouge up the steels like he shows in the video. There are other problems in it as well. Use ALL the guts out of the 72 trans. The valve body might line up with the case holes; maybe not. I would use a later BB case that accepts the PTK valve body; if that one doesn't.
 
Don't gouge up the steels like he shows in the video. There are other problems in it as well. Use ALL the guts out of the 72 trans. The valve body might line up with the case holes; maybe not. I would use a later BB case that accepts the PTK valve body; if that one doesn't.

Dang, if that's the case I might just get another later 727 to use the internals from. SB ones are a dime a dozen around here. My current living/storage space situation would make it a pain in the @$$ to have my truck down for an extended period of time.

I think before I take any further steps I'll partially tear down the BB unit I have and see what I'm starting with, who knows might have already had someone in there who updated some things...
 
Like I said, if 5 disc clutch pack go with it.
 
I change every 3-plate direct drum to a four by using a forward clutch lower ribbed plate at the top. It's a little twisty to get the waved ring back in but it will go. If you use .061 thick hypo frictions, then you can get five in there.
 
Dang, if that's the case I might just get another later 727 to use the internals from. SB ones are a dime a dozen around here. My current living/storage space situation would make it a pain in the @$$ to have my truck down for an extended period of time.

I think before I take any further steps I'll partially tear down the BB unit I have and see what I'm starting with, who knows might have already had someone in there who updated some things...
As soon as I started reading this thread this is exactly where I was going in my mind.. just getting a core big block mid 70s transmission.. it would probably cost you one or $200 on Craigslist for spacebook... Then you can keep it simple and just do a straight rebuild... And I always recommend a transgo two shift kit..
 
I just did the small block 727 for my power wagon a couple weeks ago and it was $113 for the heavy duty rebuild kit and $85 for the Transco shift kit and like 180 some dollars for a heavy duty torque converter.
 
I hate the way those kits supply thick frictions for the direct clutch instead of hyper .061 that allow an extra plate.
 
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