Ignition on power in a 65 dart

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Mattyb

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Hi, I’m looking for ignition on power in my 65 Dart. I want to wire up some accessories and would like to add a mini fuse panel. A guy I know said run a line from the alternator guage?? Just want some advice. Thank you
 
crystal-ball-fortune-teller.jpg


OK iam lost what do you wnt to do? Stuff on all the time? IE a radio?
 
I think that is what I would do too. But you'll need to fuse it well and make sure the connection through the dash is in great shape as this is the weak point of the Mopars. If you put to much load on that it could cause the point where it goes through the bulk head to get hot and burn up. That point is hot all the time by the way and you could use a relay in conjunction with a constant power to a switched power off the ignition switch.
 
Your car already has the convertible top on there on one of the studs.
But yea.
crystal-ball-fortune-teller-jpg.jpg

You got to decide whether you want the loads on all the time or only with the key.
And it depends on the loads.
The RUN circuit was for only for critical items to run the car - ignition and field. It had no fuse (other than whats inside the mechical VR.)
Everything else that needs the key on is on the 'accessory' feed.
You can piggyback onto either acc'y or acc'y switched at the fusebox. But of course that might overload the feed wire if your new items are run at the same time as other stuff.

Keep in mind that IF you drain the battery, when the car is restarted, the charging rate will be high. That too can and will slowly damage wires and connectors. If its too high it may also damage the alternator and battery.
 
I have a fused accessory block I’m wanting to use, I want to run the lights for my aftermarket gauges, radio aftermarket horn, so no real amperage items
 
lights for my aftermarket gauges
I'd see if there is a connector in the instrument light circuit already for an option console tach. I don't know if '65 had that option.
Look at your fusebox, but IIRC that circuit (with the dimmer control) both ends of the fuse are crimped connections. if not you can use a piggyback. May need to add a 2 amp fuse.
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aftermarket gauges
Those probably require 12-14 Volt power source.
Chrysler used the middle fuse position for tach, but on your car's fusebox that may be alrady taken with a higher current fuse for the 'vert????? Or maybe not. My '67 is a hard top, so I was able to use the factory solution for my aftermarket tach and under dash gages. Pictures here in post 8
Use the factory fuse ???
aftermarket horn
Horn wasn't fused. Not sure how yours gets the power but probably in the engine bay. They seemed to move th ejunction around every year. Shop manual will show it.
 
Hi, I’m looking for ignition on power in my 65 Dart. I want to wire up some accessories and would like to add a mini fuse panel. A guy I know said run a line from the alternator guage?? Just want some advice. Thank you
You need to tell us more about what you are doing AND THE LOAD involved

The alternator gauge/ ammeter is CONSTANT power and you are saying "ignition on." IS THAT what you really mean, or do you want "accessory" power?

There is only one ultimate source of switched power---the IGNITION SWITCH

It's outputs are

ACCESSORY---hot either in "accessory" or "run" position of the key.........the wire feeds from the switch to the ACC buss in the fuse panel

"RUN"--hot ONLY in the run position. Feeds off (NOT fused) to the clusther, through the bulkhead to the VR, the ballast resistor

I WOULD NOT pull much added load of either of those two outputs. Instead, I'd used one to "fire" a relay and power the relay off a breaker/ fuse with a more direct path to the battery

There are many pitfalls IF you are going to run heavy current additions. Such examples are large stereo "amps", electric fuel or coolant pumps or electric fans, but there are certainly others.
 
You need to tell us more about what you are doing AND THE LOAD involved

The alternator gauge/ ammeter is CONSTANT power and you are saying "ignition on." IS THAT what you really mean, or do you want "accessory" power?

There is only one ultimate source of switched power---the IGNITION SWITCH

It's outputs are

ACCESSORY---hot either in "accessory" or "run" position of the key.........the wire feeds from the switch to the ACC buss in the fuse panel

"RUN"--hot ONLY in the run position. Feeds off (NOT fused) to the clusther, through the bulkhead to the VR, the ballast resistor

I WOULD NOT pull much added load of either of those two outputs. Instead, I'd used one to "fire" a relay and power the relay off a breaker/ fuse with a more direct path to the battery

There are many pitfalls IF you are going to run heavy current additions. Such examples are large stereo "amps", electric fuel or coolant pumps or electric fans, but there are certainly others.
I want to run my aftermarket gauges lights, the radio and a power plug to charge my phone
 
I would:

For gauges, identify the ignition "run" wire from the key switch, tap into it, perhaps right at the key, add a small fuse, and run power to the gauges
For gauge LIGHTS, run them off the dash lights same as the rest of the dash. Get into the fuse panel, look for a fuse at one end which has "a bunch" of orange wires. These are the feeds to the dash lighting, controlled by the light switch dimmer

Radio depends on whether you want it "full time power." If you want it switched off the key, and if it is not a high power stereo, just a "normal" in dash radio, hook it up to the same plug the OEM radio connected to. Look for a "T" shaped connector with one orange wire (which is the dash lghting) and one other wire, likely red

You cell charger, don't you want it to be "on" at all times? How about the cig lighter?
 
^Rummage around at stores that sell automotive electrical stuff. They are fairly common.
 
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