Which would you run? 512 RB with solid flat tappet camshaft. Street/strip 90/10%. My royal purple Duratec ultra is not made anymore.
Dino oil.Which would you run? 512 RB with solid flat tappet camshaft. Street/strip 90/10%. My royal purple Duratec ultra is not made anymore.View attachment 1715945740 View attachment 1715945741
NoIs price a consideration?
Then use the synthetic. It has a slightly higher viscosity index, which means it's more resistant to thinning due to heat. It will also meet it's high and low temperature performance requirements using less viscosity index improver and/or pour point depressant additive. These additives will shear and are consumed, leading to what some call "breakdown" before an oil with very little of them, or without any altogether.
Both formulas have 1400 ppm zddpMineral VR1, even Hot Rod oil from Lucas, but not synthetic. Just because a cam is broken in does not mean that it will not have critical failure without the barrier than ZDDP provides as it wears.
Lucas Hot Rod oil contains ZDDP far in excess of levels proven to cause pitting and spalling in metals. This has been known for decades. The 1400 ppm in the VR-1 is right at the maximum level that balances anti-wear protection while avoiding potential damage from too much ZDDP.Mineral VR1, even Hot Rod oil from Lucas, but not synthetic. Just because a cam is broken in does not mean that it will not have critical failure without the barrier than ZDDP provides as it wears.
For competition engines, sure, but that's not a good solution for an engine that sees street duty or that has it's oil left in the sump for extended periods. Plenty of oils have enough ZDDP without having to blend in an additive that may react with the base product in an unknown way. Plus, have you tried to find a non-detergent 30 lately?This is from Crower Cams
Crower recommends a non-detergent / race only petroleum based 30wt. motor oil in all performance applications. The lack of phosphorus and zinc in current oil blends is catastrophic to engine longevity. For all applications we do recommend running our ZDDPlus additive, which adds zinc and phosphorus back into the oil.
Yeah, I only spent 32 years in the motor oil business. WTF do I know?Don't use synthetic oil with flat tappet cams....ever. I would trust that blurb from Crower Cams over any replies here
Let me know when you've sold 7 million gallons of the best selling motor oil in the U.S.Less than Crower it appears
Mineral VR-1 will do well. Since cost is a concern, check out Mobil1 15W-50 and FS 0W-40 from Walmart in 5 quart containers. You can get two shipped for free. Last time I checked they were about $25 each. The 15W-50 has lots of ZDDP, and the 0W-40 has just a bit less, but still enough for all but the most extreme spring pressures. The 0W-40 meets the most stringent Euro car specs from Porsche, MB, VW-Audi...I always heard mineral vr1 but I'll have to investigate what S'cuder has to say as well.
I will be using close to 9 quarts an oil change so cost is something to me.