I have watched a lot of his videos. He does mostly Chevy stuff but he has a lot of good content.
What he said although he didn't say it was the actual cause of the failure.Interesting video although I don't think he came to any conclusions about the issue other than to just use roller cams because he doesn't know what the actual issue is. I would love for a cam manufacturer to explain what exactly goes on during the break in phase. The way I see it if either the cam lobe slope/angle or lifter crown are not matching the band of contact will be too narrow and cause partial film lubrication and rapid failure.
True that. Not a good idea to mis match cam and lifters if you need warranty later.Often people mix and matches cams and lifters so no wonder there are issues not that buying them from the same manufacturers would be any sort of a guarantee these days as there are supposedly only a few lifter manufacturers left. I read an article last week saying each auto manufacturer used to have its own lifter crown spec. As he mentions these specs and input from the auto manufacturers has probably long ago disappeared. Buying a cam and lifters that match may well be a crap shoot these days.
I'm with you there. A roller set up is not cheap. I have been lucky not to have a failure but I haven't swapped many cans either.I'm in the middle of a budget build and got my hydraulic cam and lifters from Oregon Cams. They say they haven't had issues with the lifters they supplied (cheapies I think). I checked for lifter rotation and it looks good. I'll run proper break in oil and cross my fingers. I really didn't want to spend another $2k for a roller cam (lifters, cam, springs, pushrods, rocker arms) on a stock 340.
The number one thing besides breakin lube and the right oil is rpm. Upon initial start up, directly to 2500 rpm for 20-30 minutes for cam and lifter break in. Of course you need to have quality parts in your valve train.
And check the lifter bottoms for convex and measure the cam lobes for taper.Yeah do all the right things like proper break in oil, cam lube, get it started right away (make sure everything is right with fuel, cooling and ignition and you have a timing gun ready to go), hold above 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and that is all you can do. Of course light springs for break in will help if you have heavy springs in it.
Problem is you can’t measure how much very easily. Hopefully the lifter isn’t dead flatAnd check the lifter bottoms for convex and measure the cam lobes for taper.
My point was knowing if the crown was correct or not. Sure you should be able to tell if its flat which would be a total fail. You can make sure they all rotate in the bores (tested mine yesterday) but it doesn't mean everything is totally right. It probably just means that they won't burn the edges off of the cam lobe.sure you can, see post #8.
its either there or its not,
How To Check Flat-Tappet Lifter Crown, Lobe Taper, And Lifter BoresMy point was knowing if the crown was correct or not. Sure you should be able to tell if its flat which would be a total fail. You can make sure they all rotate in the bores (tested mine yesterday) but it doesn't mean everything is totally right. It probably just means that they won't burn the edges off of the cam lobe.
That is a great article,
If I need to do all those checks I'm going roller