pishta
I know I'm right....
How long does it take? stock Iron rings, 240 grit dingle ball clean up to uniform gray on parallel glazed cylinders. procedure? Just on my beater Mazda.
You did get the rings "right side up," didn't you? I'm sure you got the right diameter rings? Just because you have a "fresh head" doesn't mean there is not a valve train problem. When you get a hold of the leak down tester, you should find out really quick where the problem is. Valve problems...air noise either in the exhaust system or in the intake manifold. Ring problem...air noise in breather.did the rings, gaps 120 degrees apart per FSM, reconditioned head w/valve job 500 miles ago, new head gasket...get it all put back together and I got 5 inches of vibration on my vacuum guage...Fuc-------!!! :-( cylinder drop shows me #3 is not hitting. Dont have a leakdown tester yet.
Nope. To anneal cast iron it has to heated much hotter than combustion temperature and remain there for 1-2 hours then cooled slowly. You ain’t getting to that temperature in a running engine. I’ve put a bunch of engines that have had minutes of run time on them, (just enough to do idle timing and carb adjustments) on the dyno and they go through a short dyno break in and then to wot pulls. And they typically come off the dyno leaking down between 3-6%. Load breaks the rings in. Period. Pat Musi was asked once how he breaks an engine in. Look up what he builds if you don’t know. He said “we start em and put em at 8500 rpm in the burnout box”.I get a laugh out of these idiots that put a freshly bored engine on a dyno for 30 min with WOT pulls & claim the rings are now 'broken in'. Broken might be the right word in this case, as the intense heat generated from friction from new surfaces getting acquainted might anneal the rings.
There is no set time for rings fully breaking in, but 2000 miles is a good number. Driving at 50 mph, it would take 40 hrs. Use mineral oil, then switch to your oil of choice.
And an 'in tune' driver you will notice the difference.....The engine feels more lively because it is making more hp from better ring seal & reduced friction.
no, I have 120 psi. only down ~20% from the others. but I got no fire, I pull the plug wire and I see a healthy spark to a new plug but the idle does not change. I cant imagine a bent intake valve but dang it if I got a crank speed 5 inch deflection on my vacuum gauge at idle. Only last week did I tell my self "man, I've never seen a gauge do that" while looking at the cheater sheet for a vacuum gauge reading.. and now I'm witnessing it. I sure hope its a friggin intake manifold issue. Taking this chain driven OHC head off requires you to pull the friggin water pump! Ill let you all know what the cylinder pressure test reveals. All valves are .012 per spec hot. Cant really tell if one is lower as they are not comparable with a straight edge unless you take the head bolts/valve train off.Is number 3 completely dead? Like no compression?
I get a laugh out of these idiots that put a freshly bored engine on a dyno for 30 min with WOT pulls & claim the rings are now 'broken in'. Broken might be the right word in this case, as the intense heat generated from friction from new surfaces getting acquainted might anneal the rings.
There is no set time for rings fully breaking in, but 2000 miles is a good number. Driving at 50 mph, it would take 40 hrs. Use mineral oil, then switch to your oil of choice.
And an 'in tune' driver you will notice the difference.....The engine feels more lively because it is making more hp from better ring seal & reduced friction.
Could it be a bad plug? Swap a spark plug from a good cylinder and see if things change.no, I have 120 psi. only down ~20% from the others. but I got no fire, I pull the plug wire and I see a healthy spark to a new plug but the idle does not change. I cant imagine a bent intake valve but dang it if I got a crank speed 5 inch deflection on my vacuum gauge at idle. Only last week did I tell my self "man, I've never seen a gauge do that" while looking at the cheater sheet for a vacuum gauge reading.. and now I'm witnessing it. I sure hope its a friggin intake manifold issue. Taking this chain driven OHC head off requires you to pull the friggin water pump! Ill let you all know what the cylinder pressure test reveals. All valves are .012 per spec hot. Cant really tell if one is lower as they are not comparable with a straight edge unless you take the head bolts/valve train off.
new plug(s) and I even swapped cables AND plug into good cylinder. Cylinder pressure test didnt point to anything leaking anywhere (crankcase, intake, nor exhaust) Another 2 suggestions from the all knowing internet: Holley says ignition issue , while Vac Visual: Quick Guide to Vacuum Gauge Readings - OnAllCylinders says valve guides.....Maybe as I got new rings and now its higher vacuum is highlighting the old valve guides? I had a valve job done <1000 miles ago on this head (milled, valves ground...) not sure if he touched the guides. F it, these are press in guides with a hammer according to the FSM so Ill spend $25 on all 8. Could not hurt, Ill learn to hammer a guide in and I got 5 months to complete this truck. Really dont want to use the old head but I got it just in case. What effect will a smaller exhaust port have on overall driveability? I know the W2/Wx had a dinky looking exhaust port but they flowed like a ****.Could it be a bad plug? Swap a spark plug from a good cylinder and see if things change.
new plug(s) and I even swapped cables AND plug into good cylinder. Cylinder pressure test didnt point to anything leaking anywhere (crankcase, intake, nor exhaust) Another 2 suggestions from the all knowing internet: Holley says ignition issue , while Vac Visual: Quick Guide to Vacuum Gauge Readings - OnAllCylinders says valve guides.....Maybe as I got new rings and now its higher vacuum is highlighting the old valve guides? I had a valve job done <1000 miles ago on this head (milled, valves ground...) not sure if he touched the guides. F it, these are press in guides with a hammer according to the FSM so Ill spend $25 on all 8. Could not hurt, Ill learn to hammer a guide in and I got 5 months to complete this truck. Really dont want to use the old head but I got it just in case. What effect will a smaller exhaust port have on overall driveability? I know the W2/Wx had a dinky looking exhaust port but they flowed like a ****.
Hope the seats don't need cut much again, if the knurling & reaming were somebody's half-assed repair, the seats may have been cut/ground in a spot that'll be non-concentric with fresh guides....which should also be checked.Pulled all the guides out the troubled head and #3 Intake was shot. Valve was worn under the limit and the guide was .006 off the max limit. a few of the exhaust guides were at or over the limit too but those valves were fine. The old guides were knurled and must have been reamed too large or may be to small as #3 had some bad scoring. Good thing is that I have 8 exhausts to choose from and 3 are under .004 of a .008 max valve stem deflection. Still waiting on guides......:-(
Here are the old guides coming out, easy peasy to replace, cheap ($3-5) too. Ill call it preventive maintenance if new bronze ones don't fix it. These are finish honed from the box so no additional reaming needed. Now I got 8 spare valves too.