Making power out of the 318

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carmart1975 said:
i am really on a tight budget. is all of this possible or unrealistic.
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somehow i missed this on the first go around...

how tight of budget are we talking here? going fast for beer money or like, i'm eating ramen so i can pay the machinist a week from tuesday?

the money part of it colors the build and the components wildly because of affordability. don't get me wrong, you can build awesome stuff and go fast with used parts but you have considerations such as patience, tenacity, selection, work and luck. you can pay $500 for an intake and have it right now, or you can pay $350 after spending two weeks to hunt one down. you can pay $450 for a carb or grab a used one for $150, throw a $50 kit at it and rebuild it yourself.

and since you're new to mopar, parts pricing is going to give you a bit of sticker shock.
 
Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
 
toolmanmike said:
Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
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Problem is everyone of them there's no consensus, opinions very wildly, unlike 340/360/408 most generally agree.
 
toolmanmike said:
Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
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at least as many as "what's the biggest size wheel/tire fits my [blank]?" and maybe slightly less than "my lower ball joint bolts are hitting my swaybar! what do??"
 
junkyardhero said:
somehow i missed this on the first go around...

how tight of budget are we talking here? going fast for beer money or like, i'm eating ramen so i can pay the machinist a week from tuesday?

the money part of it colors the build and the components wildly because of affordability. don't get me wrong, you can build awesome stuff and go fast with used parts but you have considerations such as patience, tenacity, selection, work and luck. you can pay $500 for an intake and have it right now, or you can pay $350 after spending two weeks to hunt one down. you can pay $450 for a carb or grab a used one for $150, throw a $50 kit at it and rebuild it yourself.

and since you're new to mopar, parts pricing is going to give you a bit of sticker shock.
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I mean, I don’t have as much sticker shock as you’d think, but I’m hoping to be about roughly 3000 into the motor i hope for less because I still have to buy a V-8 transmission, just a dumb 15 year old you know
 
273 said:
Problem is everyone of them there's no consensus, opinions very wildly, unlike 340/360/408 most generally agree.
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Just like this one will end up. I've stopped giving engine build advice for that very reason.
 
i think you *might* be able to get there. how much work you can do yourself will weigh heavily on the coin. probably the absolute biggest nut is gonna be machine work.

lets get a run down of what you have, what your skills are, and a inventory of what all is present. the brain trust here can likely get ya pointed in the right direction.
 
junkyardhero said:
i think you *might* be able to get there. how much work you can do yourself will weigh heavily on the coin. probably the absolute biggest nut is gonna be machine work.

lets get a run down of what you have, what your skills are, and a inventory of what all is present. the brain trust here can likely get ya pointed in the right direction.
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I can do everything myself except the machine work everything else I’m pretty confident and actually at school I’m on the engine building team i’ve been working on cars since I was four the very first thing I did when I was four years old was a fuel pump on my grandparents 1954 Chevy 150. I’m 15 now.
 
junkyardhero said:
i think you *might* be able to get there. how much work you can do yourself will weigh heavily on the coin. probably the absolute biggest nut is gonna be machine work.
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No, the biggest nut is always the original poster who always refuses good, solid advice from over 90% of the respondents. Of course, with this thread, that remains to be seen. Hopefully he'll listen, but it won't be to me.

Besides, Mike is dead right. There are literally hundreds of informative threads on how to get power from 318s all over this site. Maybe they need to get all those threads in one forum, sticky it with big flashing boobs so people caint miss it. They still would.
 
carmart1975 said:
I can do everything myself except the machine work everything else I’m pretty confident and actually at school I’m on the engine building team i’ve been working on cars since I was four the very first thing I did when I was four years old was a fuel pump on my grandparents 1954 Chevy 150. I’m 15 now.
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That's great! A young mind willing to learn. My advice is look at the other hundreds of 318 threads on here. Pay particular attention to how a lot of the original posters either argue with or completely ignore good advice and then, don't do that.
 
racerdan80 said:
Depending on the chamber volume and what they actually measure at, you could use kb399’s. They’re domed and could put your compression up higher where it won’t be a lazy low compression combo. What axle, gears and tire size does your car have? That has to be considered for your cam. Stall of converter?
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Ok i will look into the 399s never heard of them i have 3.21s out back to
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's great! A young mind willing to learn. My advice is look at the other hundreds of 318 threads on here. Pay particular attention to how a lot of the original posters either argue with or completely ignore good advice and then, don't do that.
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Ok will do thank you
 
273 said:
If not open to running the required gear and stall, I'll build around the gear and stall compromise you set.
Main problem when building smaller displacement is they gonna need generally more gear stall rpm etc. for example a 318 will need about 13% more gear, stall, peak rpm etc.. Than a similar hp 360 to get similar performance (13% based on similar efficiency lbs-ft). Obviously efficiency can vary.
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Thank you for the info i did not know that
 
carmart1975 said:
so i recently got and 1973 small block 318 i am very new to mopar and was wondering what to do to the 318 i have every thing but the pistons the guy that i got it off of droped one and cracked it, i also have 360 heads that i would like to put on i am thinking about putting kb 167 pistons (0.40 over) in it, stock crank, stock rods and a rad cam with a lot of lope because i am a stupid kid, and stock 360 heads and then some kind of single plane intake and then a 750 double pumper i am really on a tight budget. is all of this possible or unrealistic.
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I only read your post and will tell you to treat it like a 340.
Replace the piston or a new set, the new set should be the KB pistons with a dome for some compression with an open chambered head . I myself like to ounch out the bore as far as possible on a 318. Sonic check it first. Then use a cloased chambered head (Edelbrock for example annd probably with a flat top piston and cam as needed.

Go here for a compression ratio calculator;
Compression Ratio Calculator - Wallace Racing

The 318 can not be bored out to a 340 (4.04 bore size) but may, MAY Sonic check good to a 4.00 bore. That would be 332 cubes. If it only goes .060 overbored, it’s a 327.

Grab the “How to Rebuild a small block MoPar book(s) and go from there.

Have fun
 
rumblefish360 said:
I only read your post and will tell you to treat it like a 340.
Replace the piston or a new set, the new set should be the KB pistons with a dome for some compression with an open chambered head . I myself like to ounch out the bore as far as possible on a 318. Sonic check it first. Then use a cloased chambered head (Edelbrock for example annd probably with a flat top piston and cam as needed.

Go here for a compression ratio calculator;
Compression Ratio Calculator - Wallace Racing

The 318 can not be bored out to a 340 (4.04 bore size) but may, MAY Sonic check good to a 4.00 bore. That would be 332 cubes. If it only goes .060 overbored, it’s a 327.

Grab the “How to Rebuild a small block MoPar book(s) and go from there.

Have fun
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Thank you i really appreciate it
 
273 said:
Your gonna get a lot of conflicting advice on 318's, you seem to be on the right track, i don't know about the single plane and lot of lope (possible depending on), but first before that what gears stall and what kind of performance and purpose are you looking for ? 318 need rpm to make decent power which like deep gears stall etc..
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So i listen al of your question in a later reply but i an hoping for 425hp-500hp but i know 500 is a stretch it will be a street/strip car
 
I don't think it matters how many times this question is asked since everyone is slightly different in wants needs compromises, at least the OP had some kind of a game plan beforehand, wasn't totally open ended and vague.

I think Dan is burning some you guys out :)
 
Nobody's asked, but what's your budget?
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's great! A young mind willing to learn. My advice is look at the other hundreds of 318 threads on here. Pay particular attention to how a lot of the original posters either argue with or completely ignore good advice and then, don't do that.
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Yes i will make sure not to do that. I missed a lot of the post because I was at school my bad. I also thought for some reason everyone could see the replies little new to this Form thing.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Nobody's asked, but what's your budget?
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RustyRatRod said:
Nobody's asked, but what's your budget?
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I would like to spend no more than 3000 but I’m really trying to build this as cheap as possible because I still have to buy a transmission and some other things for the actual car itself but it does run and drive right now with that little 225 slant
 
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