Need Correct Linkage Info

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charliec

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This is the linkage that was on my 68 Dart GTS w/833 trans when I bought it. Now that I'm finally reassembling everything, I find that this is probably the wrong linkage; two of the tabs are stamped "D" and "R", indicating they are for an auto trans. The last time I drove this car was over 20 years ago. It seemed to shift fine then, although I would have had nothing to compare to to determine if it was really up to snuff or not. The shifter is Inland.

Can anyone advise as to whether this linkage will work like it's supposed to or how the functionality might differ from the correct linkage. Obviously it worked before, but I don't know if it was optimal.
 
View attachment 1716339612
View attachment 1716339613

This is the linkage that was on my 68 Dart GTS w/833 trans when I bought it. Now that I'm finally reassembling everything, I find that this is probably the wrong linkage; two of the tabs are stamped "D" and "R", indicating they are for an auto trans. The last time I drove this car was over 20 years ago. It seemed to shift fine then, although I would have had nothing to compare to to determine if it was really up to snuff or not. The shifter is Inland.

Can anyone advise as to whether this linkage will work like it's supposed to or how the functionality might differ from the correct linkage. Obviously it worked before, but I don't know if it was optimal.
Automatic's don't have linkage like that.
 
Automatic's don't have linkage like that.
Do you have any idea why the tabs would be stamped "D" and "R"? I guess it doesn't matter if the links are shaped correctly and the are the correct length, but now I'm curious about the stampings.
 
Do you have any idea why the tabs would be stamped "D" and "R"? I guess it doesn't matter if the links are shaped correctly and the are the correct length, but now I'm curious about the stampings.
No idea. Some kind of identification stamping would be my guess. May be @Dan Brewer can help us out.
 
Thanks guys. One of the swivels was on the wrong side of the tabs, but other than that everything fits like it's supposed to.
20241214_174639.jpg

Just one othe quick question: Is there any advantage to using the factory-style retaining clips in the rods as opposed to just using cotter pins?
 
Thanks guys. One of the swivels was on the wrong side of the tabs, but other than that everything fits like it's supposed to.
View attachment 1716340167
Just one othe quick question: Is there any advantage to using the factory-style retaining clips in the rods as opposed to just using cotter pins?
Yes, you want to use the S clips as they are little springs and will hold it together tighter than a cotter pin.
 
Just one othe quick question: Is there any advantage to using the factory-style retaining clips in the rods as opposed to just using cotter pins?

I had a few of the factory style retaining clips come off on the track. I lost either the 1-2 or 3-4 linkage rod (don't remember which) on the track somewhere. They even allowed me to walk the track looking for it during a break. I never found it anywhere. On the trailer for me.

I have since used cotter pins. Use the largest diameter cotter pin that will fit the hole and you will be good. I think I used some thin washers on the linkage shaft to fill the gap between the pin and attachment point. No spring clip thingy required.
 
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Thanks guys. One of the swivels was on the wrong side of the tabs, but other than that everything fits like it's supposed to.
View attachment 1716340167
Just one othe quick question: Is there any advantage to using the factory-style retaining clips in the rods as opposed to just using cotter pins?
Using the factory style S-clips has the advantage of taking up play to prevent rattle . But most important is to keep wear off of the pin going through the hole that will wear on the washer. The washer usually sticks to the lever. The spring tension comes from the outer circle and stops the wear on the edge of the pin at the hole. I have always used them they never failed but must be inspected for wear and tension,

They cannot fall out if installed from the top down, Cotter pins will wear at the hole ,A spring tensioned S-clip will not unless the pull tension is gone, I am not talking about the tension of the side clip to hold it on. But the pull of the rod from the clip pushing on the lever.

Always use s-clips , They were designed due to the old cars having cotter pin failure from wear. They keep the pin away from the lever and washer. They must be installed from the top down if used vertically. Also the washer should be a thin machine style shim washer. Not a common soft washer. Make sure you use a water prof graphite grease on all surfaces both sides of the shim style washer. I have some here that lasted over 50 years without failure and can be reused if they were properly lubed. Why re:Invent the wheel?
 
During my A833 rebuild job, as I didn't have the correct Mopart clips and I used this "R" shaped pins (and no washer).
So far, no problem.
But is it a mistake?
clips.jpg
 
I've read it. And OMM talks about old car having cotter pin failure from wear. My cotter pin are brand new, and I can suppose that they are going to last a long time. So, is it a mistake to use these pins instead of the original Mopar clips?
I'm in Europe and it's sometimes (often) hard to get original parts... :rolleyes:
 
Using the factory style S-clips has the advantage of taking up play to prevent rattle . But most important is to keep wear off of the pin going through the hole that will wear on the washer. The washer usually sticks to the lever. The spring tension comes from the outer circle and stops the wear on the edge of the pin at the hole. I have always used them they never failed but must be inspected for wear and tension...

As above, the key is the original style clips keep the shift rod rod pulled to the flat on the end and keep the pin perpendicular to the hole so less wear occurs.
 
I would get the right clips, read post #12 again.

The later model trucks / van's with the A833 did use the cotter key style clip, but we see a lot of wear on the pins / fixed end of rods because the rods just flop around. We much prefer this style of clip:
SHIFTER LINKAGE CLIP & WASHER PACKAGE - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

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Hi Dan
Your shifter linkage clips & washer set is very interesting.
It's a tiny and lightweight item. Would you envisage to send it to me in a padded envelop?
This way, the shipping would be cheaper than a parcel and will avoid import taxes.... Generally, there is no tax on the international letters.
I can pay with PayPal

François
 

Hi Dan
Your shifter linkage clips & washer set is very interesting.
It's a tiny and lightweight item. Would you envisage to send it to me in a padded envelop?
This way, the shipping would be cheaper than a parcel and will avoid import taxes.... Generally, there is no tax on the international letters.
I can pay with PayPal

François
Yes, could be mailed in a padded envelope.
 
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