sireland67
Well-Known Member
I have them on my Duster, they sat kind of high, I added a lowering block to get the look I wanted.Anyone used the HD leafs that Mancinni Racing sells? im looking at those for my Barracudas
I have them on my Duster, they sat kind of high, I added a lowering block to get the look I wanted.Anyone used the HD leafs that Mancinni Racing sells? im looking at those for my Barracudas
Getting ready to put my new Espo springs on my 65 Barracuda this week. I'm trying to educate myself more on all the torque chat. Espo specifically says not to torque the shackle bolts. Other information I've seen says 45 on the UBolts and 30 on the shackle bolts. Any idea why Espo says not to torque the shackle bolts? Thanks!I over-torqued cause i'm a moron and honestly never had used a torque wrench on ubolts and never noticed a problem, springs were like buggy springs and i couldn't budge the rear end, like 1" even.. torqued them properly and it settle bout 3" and moves like butter now. It does make me wonder how much better cars in the past i had could have felt/handled..
You could also re-arch what you have if they are in good condition otherwise. I've re-arched jeep springs with a hydraulic press but it takes time and care. You could also add a leaf for more rate or half a leaf (cut off behind the axle with a plasma torch) for a traction aid with different clamps for the thicker stack. Most older vehicles have 2.5" wide leafs but center hole size varies. I think the Mancini XHD set would be hard to beat off the shelf for $325. If you can get the SS for little to nothing, you might pull a leaf from the middle to soften them up and drop the car a little if needed. The longer
I asked my local well known and good at what they do, and he said yes, they can re-arch the originals, and also said BUT they will settle down and return to sagged again, where as new would hold up better.Rearching the original set guarantee us steel as opposed to chinisum steel
I had a 70 dart years ago that I put a set ESPO springs on the back. They were great. Unfortunately I did try to torq the stock shackle nuts and snapped the threaded end of the shackle right off at the step where the bushings go. Ever since then I get them tight and use a dab of blue loctite.Getting ready to put my new Espo springs on my 65 Barracuda this week. I'm trying to educate myself more on all the torque chat. Espo specifically says not to torque the shackle bolts. Other information I've seen says 45 on the UBolts and 30 on the shackle bolts. Any idea why Espo says not to torque the shackle bolts? Thanks!
Rearching the original set guarantee us steel as opposed to chinisum steel
I am getting close to ordering these ones too. Even though they are drag spring I’m wondering how you find the ride?The Jaundiced GT ('71 Dart GT) has ManciniRacing 2800lb springs on it. They were installed over 21 years ago (by the previous owner). The car also has the factory installed 8 3/4" rear end with WheelVintiques 15" X 7" (4 1/4" backspace) sbp Rallye wheels with 245/60R15s (with room for 255/60R15s (next time)).
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I am getting close to ordering these ones too. Even though they are drag spring I’m wondering how you find the ride?
Could you pretty please post some good pictures of your car from the side? I’m thinking this is looking hood and just what I want. I’ve seen the 3200 pounders on your car (darts) and they definately seem to sit higher that this picture here.
I can't imagine that this is accurate. Perhaps they said do not overtorque the shackles or not to torque the shackles until you put the weight of the car on the wheels.... Any idea why Espo says not to torque the shackle bolts?
Exact words from Laura at Espo:I can't imagine that this is accurate. Perhaps they said do not overtorque the shackles or not to torque the shackles until you put the weight of the car on the wheels...
She's a smart gal. Espo is a great company. Re-arcing springs is just a band-aid fix.Exact words from Laura at Espo:
The Mopar books seem to list a torque spec for shackles but shackles are shoulder bolts with lock nuts and shouldn't be torqued. They should just be tightened until the side plate is seated against the shoulder of the bolt. There's not enough space to torque since torquing is stretching and it's only the thickness of the side plate between the shoulder bolt and the nut that would stretch. I started writing that on the invoices after seeing crazy torque specs in Mopar service manuals and people were breaking shackle bolts.