Cylinder bore is scratched up!

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Changing the valve seals and head gaskets was going well today thanks to the helpful people here, but then I removed the other head. All cylinder bores still have crosshatch, one has extra.
I would like to pretend I didn’t see it and continue because having the block machined is not in the cards. I’m spread thin.
How bad is it?
Can I send it?
Will it run bad?
Lose too much compression?
Would this have been evident while the engine ran? …like did I get shafted? They said the truck ran awesome, It was pulled when I bought it for $800 with 70k on it.
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Changing the valve seals and head gaskets was going well today thanks to the helpful people here, but then I removed the other head. All cylinder bores still have crosshatch, one has extra.
I would like to pretend I didn’t see it and continue because having the block machined is not in the cards. I’m spread thin.
How bad is it?
Can I send it?
Will it run bad?
Lose too much compression?
Would this have been evident while the engine ran? …like did I get shafted? They said the truck ran awesome, It was pulled when I bought it for $800 with 70k on it.
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That is nasty. From what I see an overbore is necessary. (to be fixed right) I would have to see it in person. Can you catch a fingernail on it?
 
I really can't see what you have there. Clean the carbon and residue off with carb cleaner or something, oil it down, and post another picture.
 
Doesn't look great, but pictures can be deceiving- only you can see it first-hand.
I would like to pretend I didn’t see it and continue because having the block machined is not in the cards. I’m spread thin.
Well, I guess you answered your own question. Clean it up as good as you can (lotsa WD40 and a Scotchbrite pad?) and see what it looks like. Maybe even let that cylinder soak in some ATF in case the rings are stuck.
Then start saving your pennies.
 
You can definitely catch a nail. The upper half is basically fine. I scrubbed inside with mineral spirits and a clean rag before the pics. Can I use fine sand paper in there?
There was evidence of a little water in the oil, and what you said icetech makes sense with how it looks in the cylinder bore. I will try for better pics after my beer run lol.
 
Doesn't look great, but pictures can be deceiving- only you can see it first-hand.

Well, I guess you answered your own question. Clean it up as good as you can (lotsa WD40 and a Scotchbrite pad?) and see what it looks like. Maybe even let that cylinder soak in some ATF in case the rings are stuck.
Then start saving your pennies.
The engine turns, unless you mean the rings are stuck to the piston?
 
The problem with water damage isn't the water. It's the contaminants in the water from the oil and fuel and combustion. Acids. Those acids can eat away at the cylinder where the water sat and make it porous. This isn't rust I'm talking about. It's acidic corrosion. You need to inspect it very closely, up to and including complete disassembly if you intend to use that block.
 
Do not use sandpaper. Most abrasives will break down and leave material behind so you have to be very careful how you attempt to clean it up. A good crocus cloth that has the abrasive bonded to the base cloth material is probably the safest if you are gonna do something like that.
I think I’d leave it be and just get the crust off and run it if you’re adverse to boring it. If the others are good you could just fix the one cylinder.
 
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Real simple, to do it right it comes apart... But if you have no $$$ you run it & hope for the best... What's the worst that could happen? It runs on 7 cylinders? Lotta cars out there running on less...
 
I got a couple more pics. Water sat in there for sure, the lines are horizontal to the ground. It definitely is acidic damage to the bore, it’s pitted. Everything else looks good as far as I can tell. Didn’t pull the pan yet.
The 70k engine plan (A) was reseal and convert to carb and roll by late May. The reason I paid $800 was for the millage, 1 owner, garage kept, synthetic oil for it’s life, show truck. I would have never bought it if I knew the cylinder bore was roasted. If you saw my cam thread you know I’m already at the edge of my ability.
I’m not sure how I will go forward, or if I can. Any ideas, input, and experiences are greatly appreciated. My first idea is find another short block, in terms of the cheapest resolve.
I’m also curious how it would run if I smoothed it out slightly, and what the repercussions are. I actually don’t like that idea, and I am very much the opposite of half assing anything, but money is a thing here. On the bright side, you guys are responding to my whoas and that’s fcking awesome. Big thanks! Wish I could return the favor lols.
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Okay yeah, no way that “was a runner”

Only sitting with a ton of water in it could cause pitting that bad.

If I was you I’d find another block. They are too easy to find to mess with the one you have
 
I got a couple more pics. Water sat in there for sure, the lines are horizontal to the ground. It definitely is acidic damage to the bore, it’s pitted. Everything else looks good as far as I can tell. Didn’t pull the pan yet.
The 70k engine plan (A) was reseal and convert to carb and roll by late May. The reason I paid $800 was for the millage, 1 owner, garage kept, synthetic oil for it’s life, show truck. I would have never bought it if I knew the cylinder bore was roasted. If you saw my cam thread you know I’m already at the edge of my ability.
I’m not sure how I will go forward, or if I can. Any ideas, input, and experiences are greatly appreciated. My first idea is find another short block, in terms of the cheapest resolve.
I’m also curious how it would run if I smoothed it out slightly, and what the repercussions are. I actually don’t like that idea, and I am very much the opposite of half assing anything, but money is a thing here. On the bright side, you guys are responding to my whoas and that’s fcking awesome. Big thanks! Wish I could return the favor lols.
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Exactly as I described. You can see the holes in the side of the cylinder. That's got to be bored. If you're lucky, none of those holes go into the water jacket. If they do, you'll need a sleeve.
 
Damn! That looks deep…

Something to consider: Despite how bad it looks now, you may be able to bore it and save the block. But you won’t know until you pull it and check.

However, running it this way could almost certainly cause even more damage, and probably to the entire engine, should some of that **** get in the bearings and/or oil galleries.

I hear you on the money thing, but it’s gonna be a HELLUVA lot more expensive to fix it if you run it as it is, in my opinion.
 
Oy, that's not good. Did you get it from a private seller or a yard? You stand a slight chance of getting your money back if it's from a yard.
 
Yeah, it’s friggin deep. I had a feeling it was un-sendable. I thought I was getting somewhere today, then my heart sank when I found this.
KHC Offroad & Performance (Krazy House Customs) Monroe, NJ sold it to me. I will call Brandon (owner) tomorrow and ask how he would like to resolve this. I offered him $600 btw, and he said the engine was too good for $600 basically, so $800. I could see the truck sitting right there inside the garage looking perfect, so it made sense at the time.
I looked up some short block$, not many, 1500+, ebay doesn’t count, sheesh.
I know I said no machining, lol, but my options are what they are, and fckheads can’t be choosers.
What’s the price norm on machining and assembling the short block?
Maybe hunt a junkyard shortblock that still has crosshatch?
Just re-sleeve that clinder?
I still want my 12.5 - 13.5 dart to happen.

Thanks, Doug
 
There are tons of magnums in great shape at yards near me (and probably you too) for around 500 bucks out the door. Look for obviously wrecked low mileage dodge vans and trucks.

That said you gotta get your bros together and go roll around in the filth to dig it out. I find that fun but some don’t
 
Yeah, there are plenty 360 junkers around here for sure. I hope Brandon (the seller) can help with that, or maybe his machine shop owes him one, Idk. I’m open to any sensible solutions really.
I heard the yards around NJ don’t want us picking parts anymore, not sure how true it is.
 
man, looks like you got the short end of the chicken on that one.

hopefully you and the seller can work something out.

if not cut your losses. cost to repair that is gonna exceed what you could source a decent used short block for.
 
man, looks like you got the short end of the chicken on that one.

hopefully you and the seller can work something out.

if not cut your losses. cost to repair that is gonna exceed what you could source a decent used short block for.
Indeed. The guy has an insane car collection, and a 4x4/car fab shop heaven, so hopefully he is fair. It’s also insane that I am starting over on finding an engine. Ouch.
 
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