Lucas Oil Issue?

[RustyRatRod]

Most of yall know I run the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic high ZDDP 10w30. I wanted to tell yall about something interesting that's changed my mind about that oil. I had the hood open on Vixen a few days ago for somethin.....I forget why now. Naturally. lol Anyway, I started it up and got around back under the hood and to my surprise, her cold oil pressure (I have a gauge under the hood), was only about 50 PSI. Normally, her cold PSI is about 75. So I shut her off and checked the oil and it was right on the full mark.......but it was BLACK as diesel oil. Didn't smell like gas. No evidence of water. Just BLACK as tar. Now, I don't keep track of mileage on oil changes on Vixen, because I know we don't put even 3000 miles a year on her. .....and no way did this oil change have even 2500 on it. Anyway, I went ahead and did an oil change today. Changed over to Valvoline VR1 10w30 conventional oil. I use six quarts, because I use a Motorcraft FL299. That's a two quart truck filter. Did the oil change and pressure is right back where it always is. About 75 cold and when I rev on it, goes to a tic over 80 and stops like a rock.....the relief spring gives it up and you can see it clear as day. I run a stock slant 6 oil pump with the big block high pressure spring. Just so happens the slant and big block share that spring design. I won't get into what I've heard about Lucas products from a friend....and one I consider a solid source, but it ain't good. We discussed it earlier tonight and we agree the base stock oil was probably beginning to break down. I tend to agree, because when I drained it.....and this was before I started the engine today, it ran out like water. So, I believe I'm done with Lucas motor oil. I just wanted to let yall know, because I know some of yall have tried it based on my recommendation. Bad batch maybe? My friend doesn't think so. He thinks it's all bad. LOL So I'm going with Valvoline VR1 now.

 

[Bewy]

I & my friends use to use BP Coarse + in the 1970s, 20w/50. We all noticed over a few months that our engines lost idle pressure. We knew our engines were not going bad all at the same time.....something has happened to the oil. Mate even scuffed a piston in his 454 Chev, which he claimed was the oil.
So I rang the BP hot line & told them the story....
Aaaah, yes they said, we friction modified the oil. You what? Never heard of FM. Because of reqd fuel economy laws in the USA, they were putting FM in the oil to make it thinner at operating temp...to get better mileage.
I now use a performance Aussie oil which is non-FM, 10w/60. There are a couple of brands here that are non-FM & it is stated on the container.
Maybe Lucas has added FM....

 

[RustyRatRod]

I & my friends use to use BP Coarse + in the 1970s, 20w/50. We all noticed over a few months that our engines lost idle pressure. We knew our engines were not going bad all at the same time.....something has happened to the oil. Mate even scuffed a piston in his 454 Chev, which he claimed was the oil.
So I rang the BP hot line & told them the story....
Aaaah, yes they said, we friction modified the oil. You what? Never heard of FM. Because of reqd fuel economy laws in the USA, they were putting FM in the oil to make it thinner at operating temp...to get better mileage.
I now use a performance Aussie oil which is non-FM, 10w/60. There are a couple of brands here that are non-FM & it is stated on the container.
Maybe Lucas has added FM....

Could be. But this is the first time this has happened and I've used it for a number of years. Thanks for chiming in. That's an interesting observation.

 

[Bewy]

It may be that being classed as ' hot rod' oil they were exempt from using FM....but have now decided for whatever reason to use it. Do they have a hotline you can ring?

 

[Dartnut]

Sorry to hear about your issues, Rob.
Personally, I use Joe Gibb's Driven 10w-30 conventional motor oil in my 340 Dart with a Comp Cams high energy 274 cam and it has been good for 2 years now since I've owned it.
And the car runs pretty hot in the summer with a slight drop in oil pressure when it's hot and about 210 degrees.
The cold oil pressure is stable at about 70 p.s.i. upon start up and goes to about 60 when warmed up, and about 50 when really hot.
I did not build the engine, I bought it this way.
I chose Driven because it has the right amount of zddp in it for our older engines, and that's what was recommended to me by the builder.
It was broken in with Lucas break in oil if that matters, and then changed to Driven after about 400 miles.
The engine has about 1,500 miles on it now, and is really good (other than the heating issue) and has good power.
I only put about 1,000 miles on it in a year, and I change it every year.
Also, I use a Wix 151515 filter if that makes a difference...

 

[Jeff Seighman]

I've been using the VR-1 20w50 for years, never a problem with oil pressure.

 

[Syleng1]

Joe Gibbs driven 10w30 for the high winding 273 I’ve got with a Napa gold 1515. Zero issues.
Rotella T 15w40 with a Napa Gold 1515 in the 340 in the Demon

No issues here and my stuff sits more than it runs.

My “conspiracy mind,” goes to this is how there getting rid of old cars. But I also believe other crazy stuff, so take it with a grain of salt. You tube material right there Rob! Is oil being compromised?

 

[Demonic]

If you had to guess, how old was the oil? You don't think it was a case of either being in there longer than you thought or maybe running rich and thinning it out?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sorry to hear about your issues, Rob.
Personally, I use Joe Gibb's Driven 10w-30 conventional motor oil in my 340 Dart with a Comp Cams high energy 274 cam and it has been good for 2 years now since I've owned it.
And the car runs pretty hot in the summer with a slight drop in oil pressure when it's hot and about 210 degrees.
The cold oil pressure is stable at about 70 p.s.i. upon start up and goes to about 60 when warmed up, and about 50 when really hot.
I did not build the engine, I bought it this way.
I chose Driven because it has the right amount of zddp in it for our older engines, and that's what was recommended to me by the builder.
It was broken in with Lucas break in oil if that matters, and then changed to Driven after about 400 miles.
The engine has about 1,500 miles on it now, and is really good (other than the heating issue) and has good power.
I only put about 1,000 miles on it in a year, and I change it every year.
Also, I use a Wix 151515 filter if that makes a difference...

Well, you know me. I'm always looking for a bargain and it's out of necessity. I'm just not going to cut that corner anymore.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you had to guess, how old was the oil? You don't think it was a case of either being in there longer than you thought or maybe running rich and thinning it out?

Probably around a year old. But as I said, with very little miles. I'm keeping track this time.

 

[ragtopfury]

I'd be careful with the Rotella. My son was running Brad Penn in his 408 for about 5 years. Switched to Rotella 2 changes ago and ended up with main and rod bearing issues.
I put Rotella in the 360 I experimented with in my Shelby Dakota 2 years ago. Wiped 2 lobes and about 10 lifters were failing or failed.
I do not believe the Rotella has what we need any more.

 

[LO23M8B]

I read a report a few years back that said the Rotella didn;t pass the flat tappet tests. I now use the ford diesel oil and have had zero issues. I also use the Mobil one 15w50.

 

[famous bob]

Most of yall know I run the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic high ZDDP 10w30. I wanted to tell yall about something interesting that's changed my mind about that oil. I had the hood open on Vixen a few days ago for somethin.....I forget why now. Naturally. lol Anyway, I started it up and got around back under the hood and to my surprise, her cold oil pressure (I have a gauge under the hood), was only about 50 PSI. Normally, her cold PSI is about 75. So I shut her off and checked the oil and it was right on the full mark.......but it was BLACK as diesel oil. Didn't smell like gas. No evidence of water. Just BLACK as tar. Now, I don't keep track of mileage on oil changes on Vixen, because I know we don't put even 3000 miles a year on her. .....and no way did this oil change have even 2500 on it. Anyway, I went ahead and did an oil change today. Changed over to Valvoline VR1 10w30 conventional oil. I use six quarts, because I use a Motorcraft FL299. That's a two quart truck filter. Did the oil change and pressure is right back where it always is. About 75 cold and when I rev on it, goes to a tic over 80 and stops like a rock.....the relief spring gives it up and you can see it clear as day. I run a stock slant 6 oil pump with the big block high pressure spring. Just so happens the slant and big block share that spring design. I won't get into what I've heard about Lucas products from a friend....and one I consider a solid source, but it ain't good. We discussed it earlier tonight and we agree the base stock oil was probably beginning to break down. I tend to agree, because when I drained it.....and this was before I started the engine today, it ran out like water. So, I believe I'm done with Lucas motor oil. I just wanted to let yall know, because I know some of yall have tried it based on my recommendation. Bad batch maybe? My friend doesn't think so. He thinks it's all bad. LOL So I'm going with Valvoline VR1 now.

I saw a test of Lucas products , compared to others of supposedly hi quality, the ONLY Lucas products at the top or anywhere good enough , was lucas "red" grease , it was the best tested. The other Lucas products didn't even come in , in the higher half .....jfyi

 

[RustyRatRod]

I saw a test of Lucas products , compared to others of supposedly hi quality, the ONLY Lucas products at the top or anywhere good enough , was lucas "red" grease , it was the best tested. The other Lucas products didn't even come in , in the higher half .....jfyi

That sounds pretty close to what I've recently learned.

 

[junkyardhero]

to those running rotella which flavor are you using?

i've been running the T6 5-40 for years in all manner of things and haven't had issue
(promptly knocks wood)

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I’ll post these here. If you are using diesel oil in a gasoline engine you are wrong.

If you are still using Group III oils you need to reconsider. You are stepping over donuts to pick up dog turds.



And this, because I’ve seen lying liars use this test to dupe people.

 

[QuickDart360]

VR-1 is good classic oil. I now run Brad Penn 30wt oil in my 360 no problem. I bought a case of Shaeffer 30wt oil ready to try it. I will never run any shelf oil for newer cars or diesel oil.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I'm no oil expert, but everything I've read and heard from people who "seem" like they know their stuff about oil suggests that diesel oil is not the way to go for gas engines. It's similar to runnin AV gas. Something about the additive packages that gas engines don't need and it can even harm them.

 

[Dartnut]

I'm no oil expert, but everything I've read and heard from people who "seem" like they know their stuff about oil suggests that diesel oil is not the way to go for gas engines. It's similar to runnin AV gas. Something about the additive packages that gas engines don't need and it can even harm them.

AV gas was designed to work with fixed throttle settings...

 

[Newbomb Turk]

AV gas was designed to work with fixed throttle settings...

Av gas is the base fuel for many racing fuels. Av gas works. I’ve tested it.

Dumb myths never die.