FRONT SHOCKS

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The Viking is a racing shock? In 2025 no one I know would consider the Viking shock a racing shock.

It’s a performance shock.

What’s sad is guys lose their **** because they think everything I say is pointing to “racing” and that’s just nonsense.

The OP asked for recommendations for a QUALITY
shock (I think that’s what he said or something close to that) and thats what I gave.

And all the cheap fuckers come along and tell everyone what THEY think is good enough.

Again, it’s Romper Room and I’ll never suggest to anyone to buy a non adjustable shock.

It’s 2025.
And now you are calling people "cheap F**ckers" and that's what get's you booted from posting or a vacation from the site. Post your opinion and why and scroll on by. You have said your piece and we have all read it. Thanks for your expertise.
 
And now you are calling people "cheap F**ckers" and that's what get's you booted from posting or a vacation from the site. Post your opinion and why and scroll on by. You have said your piece and we have all read it. Thanks for your expertise.
There was an old man I used to know, he said *** For every seat.
Way I see it is this is a hobby for most. Some have a larger disposable income than others.
Monroe-Gabriel regular Joe just needs new shocks. His 50 year old worn out leaking ones need swapped.
He don't need to feel like a cheap skate.
Lots of guys will treat him.like his Name is Al. And His wife name is Peg, he has a hot blonde daughter and a dumb son.
He gets a raise at the shoe store and he ponies up a few more bucks. He grabs up some KYB.
Still treated like he is a POS since he can't buy 700 -1200 bucks.
 
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No one ever said that double adjustable shocks weren't absolutely any better than non-adjustables. This is clear. But the marginal improvement relative to the money spent is minimal compared to the other things you can spend money on. The 1000 bucks spent on top notch shocks can also get stall and gears, which for a street car is so much more important. Or it could get a cam swap, or T bars and a sway bar, or leaf springs and subframe connectors, and the list goes on.

It all boils down to the economic principle of cost minimization. Your money is best spent where the improvement to the car in proportion to the money spent on each upgrade is the same for every upgrade.

So for a low budget street car, save the dough and put it towards good heads or something. On a nice car, by all means...
 

No one ever said that double adjustable shocks weren't absolutely any better than non-adjustables. This is clear. But the marginal improvement relative to the money spent is minimal compared to the other things you can spend money on. The 1000 bucks spent on top notch shocks can also get stall and gears, which for a street car is so much more important. Or it could get a cam swap, or T bars and a sway bar, or leaf springs and subframe connectors, and the list goes on.

It all boils down to the economic principle of cost minimization. Your money is best spent where the improvement to the car in proportion to the money spent on each upgrade is the same for every upgrade.

So for a low budget street car, save the dough and put it towards good heads or something. On a nice car, by all means...




It’s ok. I’ve learned my lesson. Never buy a shock you can tune because it’s expensive, it’s not needed and the improvements are marginal.
 
No one ever said that double adjustable shocks weren't absolutely any better than non-adjustables. This is clear. But the marginal improvement relative to the money spent is minimal compared to the other things you can spend money on. The 1000 bucks spent on top notch shocks can also get stall and gears, which for a street car is so much more important. Or it could get a cam swap, or T bars and a sway bar, or leaf springs and subframe connectors, and the list goes on.

It all boils down to the economic principle of cost minimization. Your money is best spent where the improvement to the car in proportion to the money spent on each upgrade is the same for every upgrade.

So for a low budget street car, save the dough and put it towards good heads or something. On a nice car, by all means...

but this is about the OP car.. he already has a street lynx rear suspension from RMS (not exactly low buck). not sure what shocks bill supplies with them these days but they used to be adjustable QA1 shocks.. i'd match the new fronts to what is already in the rear.
 
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It’s ok. I’ve learned my lesson. Never buy a shock you can tune because it’s expensive, it’s not needed and the improvements are marginal.

75EAEF6B-21A0-47DA-B210-7C3BFF6FCB6B.jpeg
 
but this is about the OP car.. he already has a street lynx rear suspension from RMS (not exactly low buck). not sure what shocks bill supplies with them these days but they used to be adjustable QA1 shocks.. i'd match the new fronts to what is already in the rear.
The kit came with RIDETECH single adjustment
 
You said real nice I would go with Bilstein if you just want some good ones to hold up around town and for some comfortable driving KYB
 
I never liked gas shocks seem to ride rough compared with regular monroe shocks an a previous poster stated. I have them on my 67 GTX and like them
 
No idea what he has.... his post is just "Need to get a real nice pair of shocks for my barracuda. What do you guys recommend ?"
Adingventie
As i assume it's a slant 6 car with stock suspension looking for a cushy ride...
Try reading entire post before commenting and you may become enlightened to answer entire question! Maybe not.
 
Then he should ignore my RECOMMENDATION and stay in the dark ages with you.

Your Edelbrock example is perfect. If half assed is good enough then use it.

If you don’t want to learn how a carb works and how to tune it (and I blame no one of they don’t because I can see all the fucked up, *** backwards bullshit guys put out there about how to tune a Holley and I know it’s hard to separate fact from fiction) then buy the Edelbrock and live with it.

I’ll leave with this analogy because it’s the same difference.

If a non adjustable shock is good enough, you shouldn’t buy a radial tire. A bias ply is good enough for street cruising, drive in movies (if you are old enough to know what that even is) and taking your girlfriend garden golfing.

Do you see the lunacy in that? That’s how I see the shock decision.

Again, MY recommendation is buy an adjustable shock. Why your panties are all ate up is your problem.

Deal with it.
How's about lets keep using straight SAE 30 ND in all the older vehicles that used it originally.
I worked for a Military Museum('Tank' The Movie)for quite a few years & drug them kicking and screaming into the Detergent Oil Era. All they knew was what was in the Army TMs(Technical Manuals) from WWll.
 

QA-1 two way adjustable , really work well can dial in the perfect ride car feels like it is on rail with the shocks and big sway bars and torsion bars
 
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