1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

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Interesting. Did you have it shaved for some compression ?
Look forward to seeing it run.
 
Interesting. Did you have it shaved for some compression ?
Look forward to seeing it run.
It's only had .002" milled just to make sure it's clean and flat. Chamber size is very close to stock at 58cc. The chamber was cast to be the same size as the open chamber. Dutra says they were going to experiment on the quench for fuel mileage, but I have no idea how they were going to do it. Most all the slant sixes I have seen have the pistons down in the hole about .180". Ain't gettin no quench with that. These pistons are .007" in the hole at TDC. The compressed thickness of these steel gaskets is .020", so my quench distance is tight. I have the good ARP rod bolts so I'm not looking for bolt stretch. It was either go about .027" quench distance, OR use a .045" compressed thickness gasket for .052". So I went tight. I don't plan on much past 5500 so we'll see. I ain't skeered. lol
 
So, I went ahead and did the pressurized timing chain oiling mod to this new engine. Here is a picture. Or two.
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It's a 1977 casting. According to Doug Dutra, Chrysler only made about five, maybe less. It'a a factory closed chamber slant 6 head. They were never supposed to make it to production, but somehow this one did on a 77 Aspen. I stumbled upon it on ebay. I had it ported, had 318 valves put in and I enlarged the spring pockets for the Comp 911 big block spring. Here it is unassembled and freshly ported.
View attachment 1716401093
Thats some good head.
 
It looks massive, too bad you have to cover it up.
I know, right? The stock cover won't fit either. I have to get a valve cover spacer a member here makes. The 318 valves are about .300" longer than the stock slant valves, so the rockers hit the cover at full lift. That's ok though. Just one more thing to work through.
 
RRR, I didn't scroll back, but did you raise the rocker shaft, and longer pushrods, along with using the longer valves? If not you will probably have a geometry problem. Might want to check with B3.
 
RRR, I didn't scroll back, but did you raise the rocker shaft, and longer pushrods, along with using the longer valves? If not you will probably have a geometry problem. Might want to check with B3.
Yes. I used B3 rocker relocation shims. Also, since I used a reground cam, I did not have to go with different pushrods. All the valve train mods kinda cancelled each other out.
 
So, I went ahead and did the pressurized timing chain oiling mod to this new engine. Here is a picture. Or two.
View attachment 1716402176

View attachment 1716402175
Lookin' good, Rob.
I'm learning lots here.
A couple of questions though, Are you going to mod the Ford exhaust manifolds in the bottom left to work on the new head?
And, are you going to scrape the orange paint and rust off of the gasket surfaces before final assembly?
To me, it looks like you are potentially going to have a bad leak there if you don't...
 
Lookin' good, Rob.
I'm learning lots here.
A couple of questions though, Are you going to mod the Ford exhaust manifolds in the bottom left to work on the new head?
And, are you going to scrape the orange paint and rust off of the gasket surfaces before final assembly?
To me, it looks like you are potentially going to have a bad leak there if you don't...
Oh yeah. It's gettin all cleaned up. And no, the Ford mannyfolds are gonna stay Ford. LOL
 

Giving an update here. I did decide to go with a better length pushrod. Using the 2 thread under the rocker method, these pushrods were about .650" too short, so I ordered some custom pushrods from Smith Brothers. Also, I got all the tin cleaned up and painted.

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RRR, I didn't scroll back, but did you raise the rocker shaft, and longer pushrods, along with using the longer valves? If not you will probably have a geometry problem. Might want to check with B3.
I actually did get a pushrod length checker and decided to go with longer pushrods, @Charrlie_S. The difference was about 5/8". So I thought that was too much, so I ordered a set of longer ones from Smith Brothers. They'll be here soon.
 
Ok, my buddy Matt, @Badvert65 asked for any input on the valve cover spacer, good or bad. So here it is. lol First, I wanna say it's really all good. It's a great piece and it's well made. However, since you asked, here's a couple things you might do. First, it's a kinda tight fit over the studs. Thanks for sending those too, btw. I'm really not sure that's a bad thing though. But, you might want to step the holes in the spacer up maybe a half size. The second thing. I spent a minute or two getting the 90 degree edge of the valve cover rail over the spacer. It actually goes over it so little, I'm pretty sure gasket seal would not be affected, anyway. BUT, if you wanna address that, You "MIGHT" put a chamfer on that outside top edge of the spacer. And honestly, those are things the end use could do and I probably will when I have the valve cover off next. But Matt, you have a winner here as fas as I'm concerned. If someone needs to raise their valve cover, this certainly fits the bill.
 
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I adorned the unicorn head motor with some cool stickers. Check out the super cool slant 6 Scat Pack bee. 6 pipes on one side. lol

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