5.9 stroker build

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On the subject of oiling, I bought the billet thrust plate kit from FABO member @Mean416. The thrust plate and lower drip rail are nicely machined, and the kit comes with a hollow capscrew for securing the upper left thrust plate corner (passenger's side). The threads go into the lifter valley and oil will accumulate and drip down through the bolt providing additional oiling to the timing chain.
Behind the thrust plate are two small oil galley holes that also created some debate as to their function. The How-To books I've read, and @krazykuda's 360 build series recommend inserting galley plugs. The How-To books go one step further and as an option, recommend drilling a tiny hole in the left-hand galley plug, and then a corresponding larger hole in the thrust plate to allow additional oiling to the timing chain and fuel pump eccentric.
Interestingly, Greg's engine did not have the galley plugs installed. He started a thread on the subject and surprisingly to me, members chimed in that they also have disassembled small blocks without the plugs. I don't remember if my magnum engine had them, and I didn't take any pics of the thrust plate during disassembly. I went ahead and installed them and staked them with a screwdriver and used @Mean416 's kit.
Original timing set prior to disassembly:
View attachment 1716411953
Here's the new timing set installed. Peeking out behind the cam sprocket you can see the drilled capscrew securing the thrust plate.
View attachment 1716411955
Thank you for the plug on the oiler tab kit, I'm glad you liked it!:thumbsup:
 
Icon instructed .004" x bore for the 2nd ring, which was the same spec as the top ring. So yes, I filed both top and 2nd to the same 0.017".
Thanks. Do you recall if the gaps out of the box for the top and 2nd rings were the same? I just gapped mine today and the tops were 0.015 - 0.016" out of the box, whereas the 2nd ring gaps were 0.023". I thought that seemed strange.
 
Yes, both sets of rings were about the same gap. The OOTB gap was less than .016" for all of them. 0.023" seems way too large.
Even for boosted engines, the max Icon called for was 0.005" x bore.
 
How does the idle compare to the 380/360 MP motor?

How does the idle vacuum compare?
 
How does the idle compare to the 380/360 MP motor?

How does the idle vacuum compare?
The stroker idles smoother than the original crate motor. Interesting though, the idle vacuum is about the same at 13"; that's an average because the needle bounces around a bit.
The stroker's NVH is noticeably lower during cruise in 4th and 5th gear. The exhaust is almost quiet. I thought it was just me due to pure exhilaration of driving the car again. But my wife commented the same thing.
Instant torque off the line, combined with lower ambient noise at cruise. It feels like I'm having my cake and eating it too.
 
Those 380/360 had cams to get that 360/380HP number and still use stock rockers to keep cost down. Many customers bought them with "eyes bigger than their stomachs" and would try to tame them down putting dual planes or EFI.

NS1RM21 sold lots of them at Westoaks MP. And after talking with the customers would often suggest 300/320 horse was a better fit for them. But at end of the day customer is always right.
 
Does the stroker run warmer than the 380/360?
With the limited miles I've put on it, I'd say it does run warmer in stop n go traffic. To put it in context, I've been stuck in stop n go traffic only once, and that was coming home from Greg's the day we fired it up, with 0 miles on the engine. That day, the needle started creeping up to the upper ranges, then dropped again when I got past the snarl. BTW, there's no aftermarket gauges installed, only OEM.
Since then I've driven it several times, including today in the mid-90s and the needle stays in the lower third sector of the gauge.
 
A fresh engine is going to run a bit warmer than one with 20,000 miles on it. All the parts are tight and getting used to each other.
I can testify to the off idle torque. The grass has finally finally grown back in my yard.
Rich fired the car up after we got the alignment done, then made a couple laps in front of the shop. Half of each lap is grass. He barely blipped the throttle and the tires spun.
The Sure grip is fully functional too.
Good times!

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Those 380/360 had cams to get that 360/380HP number and still use stock rockers to keep cost down. Many customers bought them with "eyes bigger than their stomachs" and would try to tame them down putting dual planes or EFI.

NS1RM21 sold lots of them at Westoaks MP. And after talking with the customers would often suggest 300/320 horse was a better fit for them. But at end of the day customer is always right.
If I remember it right, the MP cam has as much duration as Rich's new cam but the Hughes cam has a lot more lift. The LSA is wider on the new cam too.
48 cubes can make a noticeable difference even if the same cam were used. More cubes could have made that MP cam idle smoother.
I credit the added cubes to the torque increase.
 
If I remember it right, the MP cam has as much duration as Rich's new cam but the Hughes cam has a lot more lift. The LSA is wider on the new cam too.
48 cubes can make a noticeable difference even if the same cam were used. More cubes could have made that MP cam idle smoother.
I credit the added cubes to the torque increase.

The added stroke part of the added cubes eats up cam too.

Does it seem like a huge seat of the pants difference? It's just 3.58" vs 4.00" stroke. The rod throw is only 1/2 that outward of center; .21" ...less that 1/4"

There's no significant change to think this motor would run significantly hotter that previous one.

RBConvert did you change the cooling system any?
 
If I remember it right, the MP cam has as much duration as Rich's new cam but the Hughes cam has a lot more lift. The LSA is wider on the new cam too.
48 cubes can make a noticeable difference even if the same cam were used. More cubes could have made that MP cam idle smoother.
I credit the added cubes to the torque increase.
Longer duration, tighter LSA, less lift, almost a point-and-a-half less compression ratio.
The crate motor was a great engine, but it made its power in the upper rpm ranges. I was wanting more torque (and hp) down low. Sorry about your lawn Greg.
 

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