Well, won’t be racing anytime soon

-
Earlie A said:
No indication that the caps are moving around? You’re beating on that production block pretty hard. Impressive.
Click to expand...

Not really, it’s rarely over 6500 rpm, I footbrake it, and don’t put a lot of laps on it, being an old guy and kinda ready for the glue factory racing.
wise:lol:
Billet steel caps, ARP studs, good fuel, no detonation.
 
Demonx2 said:
Yep - all in the wording. Your car ran far too well to have some major issue.

Keep getting that beauty back together. Anxious for you to have it back out at the track again!!
Click to expand...
Everybody I have asked said the timing being off that much is probably 20 horse, or better.
Asked Vic Bloomer yesterday about it, he said, oh yea, that will show up on a time slip, no doubt.
 
Pic from last summer. This will give you an idea of how big a tub my poor little car has to deal with driver wise.

IMG_0217.jpeg
 
B3422w5 said:
Everybody I have asked said the timing being off that much is probably 20 horse, or better.
Asked Vic Bloomer yesterday about it, he said, oh yea, that will show up on a time slip, no doubt.
Click to expand...
I don't understand. How was the original timing "determined?" Was it run on a dyno and that's where it made the best torque? Was it run at the track and adjusted for best performance or plug reading? Was it just set at a number from past experience and left there because it performed well enough?
I am not judging here, just curious why it is even considered an issue without more info. I always treated the numbers on the balancer as increments, a reference point for adding or taking away a couple degrees here and there. Never really cared what the final number was, other than to know where to put it back if the distributor ever came out for some reason.

Either way, I am happy to see this was not very bad damage and you are getting it back together again.
 
Is it possible that the balancer could have been taken apart and then assembled off one screw because after looking at the photo with the balancer in it I don’t see how it could change over time on its own.
 
Bobzilla said:
I don't understand. How was the original timing "determined?" Was it run on a dyno and that's where it made the best torque? Was it run at the track and adjusted for best performance or plug reading? Was it just set at a number from past experience and left there because it performed well enough?
I am not judging here, just curious why it is even considered an issue without more info. I always treated the numbers on the balancer as increments, a reference point for adding or taking away a couple degrees here and there. Never really cared what the final number was, other than to know where to put it back if the distributor ever came out for some reason.

Either way, I am happy to see this was not very bad damage and you are getting it back together again.
Click to expand...
There are a number of very similar combos around now like I have.
The Bloomers dyno’ed such a motor at BES several years ago. 34 degrees total was the sweet spot. The guy on here (Vic) who has the red AMX runs that motor.
I am a bracket racer, I set the timing to be 34, it ran fine, and never moved it around after that. If it don’t stink, don’t stir it.
I never played with it, every time I am at the track, I don’t like changing things if they are working, it just takes away from what I am there for, to hopefully go rounds.
From what I understand, I have been running my timing that I thought was at 34 degrees, at actually 29 degrees. If that indeed proves to be the case, that would make a substantial difference with how the car runs.
I have raced enough small blocks to know 29 degrees isn’t right.
We will hopefully find out soon. I know what it should run within a couple numbers every time I take it to the track. I will know within a couple good hits if we indeed found a problem and fixed it.
I am not so sure moving the cam 2 degrees will show up on the slip, but I know it certainly won’t hurt, and might indeed help.
Most important part of any pass is the first 60 foot, it has the biggest impact.
There are a lot of things I don’t know, I learned a lot the last few days with an ultra sharp guy in my corner helping me get this thing apart and back together.
I am not gonna slam myself. There is a lot of stuff I have learned the last 50+ years racing, and I have a very good memory.
 
Last edited:
It’s running!
Couple issues, driver side valve cover is leaking, and we put a new one on that side( cometic, never again) trimmed it to fit where the intake runners didn’t allow it to lay down flat. Still leaks. Back to a cork one, have to get one coming.
Other issue, started right up, clattering in the valve train. Shut it off, started it back up after checking water, etc, seemed to go away, sounded good. Stabbed throttle, clattering came back. Not sure what is up.
Called it a day. Get valve cover coming, that was only leak, excellent oil pressure, 78 and it stayed there. Will put in thinner oil(15/ 50 currently)
Back at it hopefully Monday.
Car has never idled better, smooth even under a thousand. One pump, fired up, idled right away…..
 
Car is back online and 100%. Also upgraded the fuel pump from the cheapy 90gph pump from All star( lane automotive) that was on from the stock stroke 360 days.
Sounds super crisp, idles great.
Thanks Mitch for the great job, learned a lot these last few days. Outstanding attention to detail :thumbsup:
 
B3422w5 said:
wife wasn’t digging it sitting dormant in the garage.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: sounds like my wife, my car will be around long after I'm dead and buried, my wife learned how to drive in my fastback 44 years ago in 1981, 4.56 gear and all.
She's put more money into it than I have , sometimes I think she believes it's all hers. But she knows better
She's been known to have some track time and a terror on the street over the years.
 

Demonx2 said:
So what was the clattering sound you were concerned about? Asking for a friend...
Click to expand...
Thought it was lifters or cam lobe. Rechecked lash, one was a hair tight, readjusted, but nothing loose so figured it must have been a lifter.
Restarted car, it was fine. Maybe just took a bit to get oil through the oil holes on the faces. Smeared a good bit of assembly lube on them and the cam.
Anyhow, restarted car, it’s fine now, let it run a good while, no issues at all. Topped offradiator, added water wetter, all good.! Lash perfect
Fixed valve cover leak, no leaks now, all dry underneath
 
B3422w5 said:
Thought it was lifters or cam lobe. Rechecked lash, one was a hair tight, readjusted, but nothing loose so figured it must have been a lifter.
Restarted car, it was fine. Maybe just took a bit to get oil through the oil holes on the faces. Smeared a good bit of assembly lube on them and the cam.
Anyhow, restarted car, it’s fine now, let it run a good while, no issues at all. Topped offradiator, added water wetter, all good.! Lash perfect
Fixed valve cover leak, no leaks now, all dry underneath
Click to expand...
Good hustle Don and crew. Assuming the timing was off that amount and the cam was moved 2 degrees it'll have a good bit more low-end now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

pittsburghracer
My buddy (a Mopar guy) won his first school bus race
Replies
18
Views
1K
str12-340
str12-340
cruiser
Truck versus Duster, and truck won.
2
Replies
28
Views
3K
cruiser
cruiser
PredaFran
Won a Giveaway
Replies
10
Views
1K
RustyRatRod
RustyRatRod
B
Won my first race in a while Saturday night
2
Replies
28
Views
3K
stixx
stixx
B
duster won,t start
Replies
2
Views
380
67Dart273
67Dart273
Back
Top Bottom