about a month and a half
Got my Cam Back from Oregon
- Thread starter Dusty 997
- Start date
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Well its been a long time coming.
Finally got the car running. Im pretty bummed out. Sounds about exactly the same as it did with the stock cam.
No noticable idle chop at all.
Back to the drawing board :/
Finally got the car running. Im pretty bummed out. Sounds about exactly the same as it did with the stock cam.
No noticable idle chop at all.
Back to the drawing board :/
mopowers
Well-Known Member
It sounds like it should for 218/224 @ .050 on a 110 to me. Were you expecting it to idle like a top fuel car?
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Why don't you drive it to see how it runs before you condemn it? It sounds really snappy.
Pull some timing out at idle, turn the idle down, you'll get your desired idle quality and it will be a poor tune up.
As you may or may not know overlap is the main contributing factor to idle chop. Some motors respond very positively to overlap others do not need it as much. RPM range, head quality, compression ratio, etc etc determine the amount of overlap it can use or need to maximize any motors power for it's
intended use.
intended use.
Test drove the car today, still pretty darn underwhelmed. Itl break the tires loose if you tromp it from a dead stop, but with a 2500 stall and 3.73 gears i would sure hope so.
But not all that much better than it did before with the stock cam.
I guess everyones idea of hauling *** and making power isnt the same. On paper this should have put my old dart to shame.
Gonna pull the motor this winter and try something else combo wise. Maybe heads or pistons, On the plus side i learned a lot doing the swap by myself for the first time and i have good solid data to proceed with.
I dont think anyone gets it right the very first try. Our cars are never "Done" , right?
On to the next chapter.
But not all that much better than it did before with the stock cam.
I guess everyones idea of hauling *** and making power isnt the same. On paper this should have put my old dart to shame.
Gonna pull the motor this winter and try something else combo wise. Maybe heads or pistons, On the plus side i learned a lot doing the swap by myself for the first time and i have good solid data to proceed with.
I dont think anyone gets it right the very first try. Our cars are never "Done" , right?
On to the next chapter.
Just keep in mind, the engine is a package of parts that work together. You don't simply change "one thing" and expect a huge impact. If the engine was stock before and all you changed was the camshaft, any changes in power production will likely be minimal. Also as the camshaft gets "bigger" with more duration, more overlap and a later intake closing event, the engine will get more sluggish unless you change other variables such as air flow and compression ratio to match the different camshaft. All the parts must match the intended purpose, or you can likely end up with more of a slug.
i guess my issue is, i had this exact same motor setup with an inferior (on paper) lunati cam and the performance and sound are were absolutely night and day. The 360 magnum with that lunati cam sounded like a freight train and pulled like absolute hell. That car scared me for a while at first, and this same combo with what should be (on paper) a better cam, just feels like the stock cam. switching from stock exhaust to flowmasters felt like it made more of a difference than this cam did. I'm pretty baffled by it. Almost made me wonder at first if i wasn't accidentally sent an unground bone stock core or if id accidentally reinstalled the bone stock cam. the difference is that negligible.
Oregon 1341: 218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .482”/.482” lift, 110 sep
Lunati: 220/220 @ .050, 280/280 adv. .442"/.442" lift, 112 sep
I built a stock bore and stroke Ford 5.0 awhile back with that same cam (your Oregon) and it has a pretty lumpy idle. Much moreso than just the cubic inch difference. It ended up going in a little square body Ranger a friend of mine's son has. She told me it will smoke both back tires pretty much as long as her son has his foot on the gas. I think @TrailBeast has that same cam in a 360 in his Dart. Maybe he'll chime in.
that's really making me wonder if i wasn't accidentally sent a bone stock core that wasn't ground at all.
You can measure the lift and find out. I guess you didn't put a degree wheel on it?
Is there is a chassis dyno near you that can tune, check air fuel ratio and do a timing sweep on your combination to make sure you don't have something holding it back?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Toss a degree wheel on it.
This should be a lesson, then.
I don't know what they charge where he is, but the cheapest one around here is around $500 an hour.
Yep, sure sounds like it was installed retarded. That would account for the piggish off-the-line performance.
how can it be installed retarded when the dots are perfectly alligned, that should be perfectly centered, one way or the other would be advance/retard
$500 would would get timing swept and carb jetted (holley) on my dyno. Sounds like I'm too cheap.
What is your dynamic compression(?) and manifold vacuum. Ken knows what he's doing, he may not have given you a cam larger than your combination, compression/valve spring/drivetrain warranted.Test drove the car today, still pretty darn underwhelmed. Itl break the tires loose if you tromp it from a dead stop, but with a 2500 stall and 3.73 gears i would sure hope so.
But not all that much better than it did before with the stock cam.
I guess everyones idea of hauling *** and making power isnt the same. On paper this should have put my old dart to shame.
Gonna pull the motor this winter and try something else combo wise. Maybe heads or pistons, On the plus side i learned a lot doing the swap by myself for the first time and i have good solid data to proceed with.
I dont think anyone gets it right the very first try. Our cars are never "Done" , right?
On to the next chapter.
There are no "magic Cams" unfortunately. FWIW my best 360 combination was a 248/256 SFT .558/550 on a 110 Schneider 278-86F. It ran well with Flattop pistons and EQ (Magnum style) 1.92/1.625 valve heads, and has a great exhaust note. My other 360 has 11.5:1 with a Schneider 242/242 510 solid on 110 and it doesn't rumble the exhaust very much. Good luck.
This is the whole point and reason for degreeing camshafts. Because there is zero guarantee that the timing sets and the camshafts are made so that when everything is assembled, the camshaft is in the right place. Since we are measuring in DEGREES, that means a very small difference can add up to a large tolerance stack. If the cam sprocket is off one degree, that's two degrees at the crank. If the crank sprocket is off by another degree, there's one more. That's not even counting on Chrysler having machined the crank keyway in the exact right place, OR of the cam company machined the cam just right. This is why it is absolutely imperative that you degree the camshaft. But no matter how much we preach it, there are always some who will always refuse to listen and will never get it.
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