71 340 used Engine price

[Gator]

Hey guys I just want to get some input on what you guys think my 340 short block engine with HYD flat tappet valve train would be worth. Do to my cam failure it will need completely tore down and cleaned due to some fine metal shavings from the cam. It was already bored .030 over with the engine having approximately 32k miles. What is included is the pistons, crank, cylinder J-heads with 2.02/1.88 valves and the valve train. No intake, carb. or harmonic balancer. Thanks

 

[Demonstrator]

Whatever someone is willing to pay... 340's are drying up so it's got real value to someone needing a 1971 date coded 340 block. Just put out a number and see what happens. (Not too crazy)

 

[toolmanmike]

Hey guys I just want to get some input on what you guys think my 340 short block engine with HYD flat tappet valve train would be worth. Do to my cam failure it will need completely tore down and cleaned due to some fine metal shavings from the cam. It was already bored .030 over with the engine having approximately 32k miles. What is included is the pistons, crank, cylinder J-heads with 2.02/1.60 valves and the valve train. No intake, carb. or harmonic balancer. Thanks

Because of the damage, consider it a core. To do it right it will have to be completely gone through and at 30,000 miles, possibly bored again. 340's with J heads can go for decent money. I wouldn't pay any more than $1000. It is worth more than $500 but not worth $1500 IMHO.

 

[Syleng1]

What is the SN on the drivers side of the block stamped into the pad by the oil pan rail please.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Because of the damage, consider it a core. To do it right it will have to be completely gone through and at 30,000 miles, possibly bored again. 340's with J heads can go for decent money. I wouldn't pay any more than $1000. It is worth more than $500 but not worth $1500 IMHO.

I think this is a good estimation ^^^^^^

 

[Oldmanmopar]

The engine should be tore down for inspection by the buyer. Otherwise you cannot know what the damage is. The price goes up as the parts are good internally. Otherwise your selling a block and head cores. The more usable parts the more you can ask for the engine.

 

[1MeanA]

The engine should be tore down for inspection by the buyer. Otherwise you cannot know what the damage is. The price goes up as the parts are good internally. Otherwise your selling a block and head cores. The more usable parts the more you can ask for the engine.

Its definitely worth more to someone if the cylinder bores and bearing surfaces are nice.

 

[1MeanA]

Here is one that just sold...assuming it needed a rebuild
[FOR SALE] - 340 engine with J Heads

 

[fishmens67]

The price of a core, that's all it's worth to me.

 

[junkyardhero]

$1000~1500 is a reasonable ask. i'd pull it all down and see what the extent of the damage is on the crank & rod journals because that's the determining factor price wise.

 

[ir3333]

They are becoming very hard to find and are usually preferred for earlier A bodies. I can
see someone paying $1500 even if it needed a sleeve or 2 for a '68 - '71 A body.
For guys that hit the aftermarket for everything aluminum and a set of headers probably not as much?

 

[Gator]

What is the SN on the drivers side of the block stamped into the pad by the oil pan rail please.

I just got back in town and I will check in the morning.

 

[Gator]

I just got back in town and I will check in the morning.

Casting # 2780930-340-3

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here is one that just sold...assuming it needed a rebuild
[FOR SALE] - 340 engine with J Heads

Yup. Notice Dave answered all questions posed to him quickly and accurately. Had the engine with the heads off so you could see the bores and valves. That's how it's done. That's why it sold quickly. Dave's a good dude.

 

[JDMopar]

Casting # 2780930-340-3

Do you know whether it's the numbers matching engine for your car? If it is, you'd better keep it! Look at the number stamped right above the pan rail on the passenger side, close to the block drain plug. See if the last 6 numbers of your VIN match what's stamped in that machined pad.

 

[harrisonm]

Hey guys I just want to get some input on what you guys think my 340 short block engine with HYD flat tappet valve train would be worth. Do to my cam failure it will need completely tore down and cleaned due to some fine metal shavings from the cam. It was already bored .030 over with the engine having approximately 32k miles. What is included is the pistons, crank, cylinder J-heads with 2.02/1.88 valves and the valve train. No intake, carb. or harmonic balancer. Thanks

Here is my $0.02. Since you had a cam failure and mentioned that metal shavings circulated in the engine, I think you are going to have trouble getting much over about $900 for it. At this point it could be damaged enough to not even be worth core value. I would not buy an engine like that unless I could see inside it. If you want to take just what you can get (I can almost assure you it will be under $1000), you can just advertise it as is with meal filings and get what you can. I would disassemble it to a bare block and clean it thoroughly. If there is damage, then you can still sell it as is for what you can get. If there is not any damage, then anybody interested in it will not only appreciate your honesty and effort, they will be willing to pay way more for it.

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is my $0.02. Since you had a cam failure and mentioned that metal shavings circulated in the engine, I think you are going to have trouble getting much over about $900 for it. At this point it could be damaged enough to not even be worth core value. I would not buy an engine like that unless I could see inside it. If you want to take just what you can get (I can almost assure you it will be under $1000), you can just advertise it as is with meal filings and get what you can. I would disassemble it to a bare block and clean it thoroughly. If there is damage, then you can still sell it as is for what you can get. If there is not any damage, then anybody interested in it will not only appreciate your honesty and effort, they will be willing to pay way more for it.

Come on, man...I've been through 4 failed cams and all 4 times the engine was fine. You remind me of this guy:



Nobody likes the doomsayer.
Chances are great that most of the grit was caught in the filter. You can dingle ball hone the cylinders and hot tank the block and you're back.
I'd say that $1000 is a fair price for a long block with intake.

 

[Gator]

Do you know whether it's the numbers matching engine for your car? If it is, you'd better keep it! Look at the number stamped right above the pan rail on the passenger side, close to the block drain plug. See if the last 6 numbers of your VIN match what's stamped in that machined pad.

No it is not matching number.

 

[Syleng1]

Casting # 2780930-340-3

No- I was looking for the vin number, just above the drivers side pan rail. There is a machined flat about 3/4 of the way to the back that has the vin number stamped in. Not the cast number near the head. Thank you.

 

[harrisonm]

Come on, man...I've been through 4 failed cams and all 4 times the engine was fine. You remind me of this guy:



Nobody likes the doomsayer.
Chances are great that most of the grit was caught in the filter. You can dingle ball hone the cylinders and hot tank the block and you're back.
I'd say that $1000 is a fair price for a long block with intake.

LMAO, my wife says that all the time. I pretty much agree with you. A cam lobe can certainly go bad without trashing the engine. The ONLY reason I had the negative comment on the engine was because the OP specifically mentioned that, "it will need completely tore down and cleaned due to some fine metal shavings from the cam". He didn't mention the size of the particles OR the quantity. So if he thought it was bad enough to have to tear the engine down, that is enough for me to be very concerned. Once bitten, twice cautious.

 

[Kern Dog]

Maybe so, Harrison.
I took the OP's words as those of a man being up front and honest instead of downplaying the condition and being deceptive. It may be a case where it does make sense to tear it down just to clean it and regasket the thing.

 

[Ironmike]

I need a late 1970 casting block. Just throwing it out there.....
For my 71 Demon. Just to have.

 

[Gator]

LMAO, my wife says that all the time. I pretty much agree with you. A cam lobe can certainly go bad without trashing the engine. The ONLY reason I had the negative comment on the engine was because the OP specifically mentioned that, "it will need completely tore down and cleaned due to some fine metal shavings from the cam". He didn't mention the size of the particles OR the quantity. So if he thought it was bad enough to have to tear the engine down, that is enough for me to be very concerned. Once bitten, twice cautious.

Well I spoke to a few engine builders and they informed me that many of the fine particles could start to plug up small oil/port holes as you do not know how big the particles could be as a large portion of the cam lobe was noticeably worn down. I myself by no means am I an engine builder so I take the advice from the highly experienced Builders that know engines and the end results on what could happen if not tore down, cleaned and inspected.

 

[AJ/FormS]

just so everybody knows the flipside;
this is NOT a brag, Rusty;
and knowing what I now know, I'd probably not do it again;
In summer of 2004, the 4-yo FTH cam in my hotrod 367, dropped some lobes
I installed a new cam kit, changed the oil and filter, broke it in, and have been driving it ever since.
and no, I reinstalled both springs with enough pressure to reliable rev to 7200+
No special oil either, but did add some ZDDP.
There's always that "one guy", eh.
Lucky?, IDK; call me blessed.

 

[Moparply]

What is the casting date on the side of the block? What is the stamped vin number on the ID pad by the oil pan rail? Thanks