What plugs are You Running in Your 408 Strokers.

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For the avatar's 408 (Eddy heads, 10.5 actual CR), I started with Champion RC12YC. Those didn't last long as I had 2 plugs where the center electrode got pushed up into the ceramic body leaving no middle tip! I worked with a Champion rep in our engine group (I worked for one of the OEM'S) and he stated these are very old technology plugs. He said the seal inside the plug to keep the gasses inside are made of compressed talcum powder(!) and this was a known failure mode that was since long ago addressed with their other/newer plugs. He gave me a recommendation for a different Champion plug but when I looked at them, they were like $11/plug!

Nope - not gonna do that so I went to Autolite 3924 plugs (cost then about $1.80 each) and have never looked back. These plugs seem to be fine at the track as well as putting around on the streets. My $0.02!!
 
For the avatar's 408 (Eddy heads, 10.5 actual CR), I started with Champion RC12YC. Those didn't last long as I had 2 plugs where the center electrode got pushed up into the ceramic body leaving no middle tip! I worked with a Champion rep in our engine group (I worked for one of the OEM'S) and he stated these are very old technology plugs. He said the seal inside the plug to keep the gasses inside are made of compressed talcum powder(!) and this was a known failure mode that was since long ago addressed with their other/newer plugs. He gave me a recommendation for a different Champion plug but when I looked at them, they were like $11/plug!

Nope - not gonna do that so I went to Autolite 3924 plugs (cost then about $1.80 each) and have never looked back. These plugs seem to be fine at the track as well as putting around on the streets. My $0.02!!
don't they make a Race 3924? Or maybe it's a Race 3923......
Whichever one was a Race plug, I ran them for awhile with no problems, other than price. The NGK's were cheaper.
 
don't they make a Race 3924? Or maybe it's a Race 3923......
Whichever one was a Race plug, I ran them for awhile with no problems, other than price. The NGK's were cheaper.
I don't know about race plugs. I think I got these Autolite 3924's at O'Reilly's for about $1.80 each about 3 years ago.
 
Must be nice. Those plugs and the NGK 6962 are $6/ea up here.
Summit shows them at $1.99 each. Here's an eBay ad for $25 for 8 plugs.
Screenshot_20250924_194137_eBay.jpg
 
NGK ZFR6F 11

It's what the builder recommended and they work great. I even changed from a 4-barrel to a FiTech port FI system and used the same plugs.
 
Not when you know what you are doing....
What needs to be remembered is that the factory had to consider the worst case scenario when recommending plugs.
 
How hot is too hot?
Check the discoloration on the base ring and count the threads of discoloration.
Timing, the strap, wot? The deepest portion of the insulator...and on n on.

I ran those gr4gp .030 quench with iron heads, 9.98 comp and 8.3 or so dynamic and 28 total timing on 91 chevron.
Did the testing and checked everything to know.
 
My builder recommended Brisk Spark Plugs for my supercharged 408 Magnum stroke. I had never heard of them before, but went with his recommendation. I'm just finishing up with the final installation engine and transmission swap, but will post an update once I learn how they do.

One my RB stroker, I have always run NGK's. They seem to clean up the idle and low rpm operation.

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The Brisk spark plugs are pretty good from what I've read. Lots of guys use them in the cranked up turbo Audis.
 
Tim,
Yes to answer your question, NGK 5s are hotter than 7s. There will be a lot of engines running around with cold plugs [ that are not needed ] getting carboned up with soot & running poorly. Plugs have a very generous temperature working range, about 800*F, which got extended with the use of copper in the centre electrode.
Well I’m over cleaning soot off the NGK 7’s and a crummy running motor. Time to try some 5’s.
 
I find it odd though that it seems I'm going in the opposite direction with the plug heat range according to the NGK chart. This would be on the hot side for a standard/stock engine. Really hot for a high compression engine. I should be up in the 8-9 range.

NGK Spark Plug Heat Range Chart
Heat Range Application

2–4 Small engines (lawnmowers, generators)

5–7 Standard passenger vehicles

8–9 Performance vehicles, light racing

10+ Extreme performance, heavy-duty engines
 
I find it odd though that it seems I'm going in the opposite direction with the plug heat range according to the NGK chart. This would be on the hot side for a standard/stock engine. Really hot for a high compression engine. I should be up in the 8-9 range.

NGK Spark Plug Heat Range Chart
Heat Range Application

2–4 Small engines (lawnmowers, generators)

5–7 Standard passenger vehicles

8–9 Performance vehicles, light racing

10+ Extreme performance, heavy-duty engines
My B&S small engines came with 5 same size plugs as recomm nd for many small blocks and stroker motors.
My larger Honda Generator has NGK 6 one step cooler
 
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I'll throw some new NGK 5's in today and see what happens.
Got the NGK 5’s in but haven’t started it yet. Those 7’s I took out, I cleaned over the weekend, are already sooted and wet with fuel after only about 10 miles of driving.
 
Got the NGK 5’s in but haven’t started it yet. Those 7’s I took out, I cleaned over the weekend, are already sooted and wet with fuel after only about 10 miles of driving.
I have been running -7’s in my 340 for a few years. After pulling the plugs a few times in my now 340/420, I decided to order the -5’s after seeing a lot of buildup on my plugs. I used to run the -5’s when I ran iron heads, but was told to run the -7’s when I switched to aluminum. They should be here next week so I will throw in the -5’s and see if they clean up a bit.
 
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