Carbon Fiber Dive shaft?

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wicked70496dart

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Drive shaft question? I am upgrading to a Moser 9" from my 8 3/4 I have now. I'm converting over to coil over from leaf springs as well. I need to have a new drive shaft made and was thinking of using a Carbon Fiber shaft. My new 512 on nitrous will be around 1100 hp. I have a new all billet trans from Pro Trans with a brake, new PTC converter for nitrous and trans brake. I'm upgrading the rear of the car also with the Moser 9".On my old setup back braced 8 3/4 with a 4" steel shaft with 1350 joints and yokes. Does any body use a 3.50" carbon fiber shaft and did you have any bad experience's with them? Thanks Matt
 
I used to be worried about carbon fiber driveshafts but it appears to be safer in higher horsepower and really fast cars. I don't have one but here is two good videos I remember about making one for Steve Morris' Wagon. That is a heavy car, relative to how fast it is, and he switched to carbon fiber as well. Apparently it does not fling around and beat everything up in the event of a failure. It mostly just shreds.



 
Upgrade to carbon fiber after you have the car sorted out. Once you've got the car to ET, run great and be dependable, then switch over to carbon fiber. If you want the car fast as possible, carbon fiber is the way to go.

But you must keep it away from any heat source. Small block Mopar Cars have limited area down there, so you have to watch it. A carbon fiber driveshaft will easily get ruined by header heat hitting it. Aluminum is a great option in this case, but most driveshaft shops make aluminum driveshafts very wide and won't fit standard driveshaft loops. Bring them your original driveshaft so they can measure and duplicate the width in aluminum. You are looking at a grand for an aluminum driveshaft.

Mancini makes the best steel Mopar driveshaft kits. They're not too heavy, but strong reliable kits.
You will have to measure your Car (YouTube) and take the kit to a local driveshaft shop. The driveshaft shop will be a big help in figuring out what ends you need to fit your rear end and trans. Stay away from the way over-priced billet stuf, Spicer 1350 or OEM is your best go.
SOLID U-JOINTS are a must for racing.
I don't recommend relying on your local driveshaft shop for a steel race driveshaft. They are interested in you "not coming back" and will build you a boat anchor.
:BangHead:
 
CCI makes the only shafts I'll use. They do steel and aluminum for myself. The guys are the smartest I've seen, in the decades I've had drive-shafts made. They've been involved in everything with powered shafts...including nascar and marine applications.
Tell them what you're doing...and they have it handled. They also machined up my hub for my NAG1 conversion [trunion], to a slip-spline shaft in my `cuda, as well. Very smart, very friendly, superlative work, and priced very fairly. It's a family business. Tell them what you have, pertinent specs, and what you're doing. They'll let you know what you need. Measuring chart/instructions on website
They're about a 1/2 hour away from Mancini's, who just sell parts.

CCI Custom Driveshaft Shop for Quality Driveshafts and Driveline Parts | CCIDriveline.com

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CCI makes the only shafts I'll use. They do steel and aluminum for myself. The guys are the smartest I've seen, in the decades I've had drive-shafts made. They've been involved in everything with powered shafts...including nascar and marine applications.
Tell them what you're doing...and they have it handled. They also machined up my hub for my NAG1 conversion [trunion], to a slip-spline shaft in my `cuda, as well. Very smart, very friendly, superlative work, and priced very fairly. It's a family business. Tell them what you have, pertinent specs, and what you're doing. They'll let you know what you need. Measuring chart/instructions on website
They're about a 1/2 hour away from Mancini's, who just sell parts.

CCI Custom Driveshaft Shop for Quality Driveshafts and Driveline Parts | CCIDriveline.com

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CCI for me also! they are bout 25 mins from my house, were amazingly nice to deal with... i showed up at 6am before work to pick mine up and the guys were nice and answered my questions and all that. I filled out their form on line and it fit perfect, i think i spent just under $500 for new driveshaft (3.5" Steel.. way way overkill.. but it should last forever) new yoke and new spicer ujoints.

I clear coated it to keep it pretty for awhile also...

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Nice. I've never had to wait more than over a weekend for anything. I usually get my driveshafts the same day or next. They're rockstars, in my eyes.
Even better....ten minutes from home.
 
Nice. I've never had to wait more than over a weekend for anything. I usually get my driveshafts the same day or next. They're rockstars, in my eyes.
Even better....ten minutes from home.
Yeah, i probably should have had them make something up to keep the ball and trunion setup, would have made life less stressful than looking out for spare '65 trans :)
 

I lived in this area my entire life and somehow never knew about CCI until about a year ago where a guy overheard a conversation between my brother and I with talk about needing a driveshaft. He suggested them. I plan to go that route for my next one, whenever I get around to it. So I am glad you both had good experiences with them.
 
I lived in this area my entire life and somehow never knew about CCI until about a year ago where a guy overheard a conversation between my brother and I with talk about needing a driveshaft. He suggested them. I plan to go that route for my next one, whenever I get around to it. So I am glad you both had good experiences with them.

Many good experiences with them. Small, superlative, business that I've never seen advertise. They don't need to.
 
I ran one on my 4500 lb, 9 second Super Stock that put 838 hp to the rear tire with no issues. One thing I will say though is make sure you inspect the driveshaft for nicks or surface damage often.
 
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