Oil be darn
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Icetech
Well-Known Member
Can prolly grab this from harbor freight but i'm lazy.. and also... the cheapest **** small cigars from a gas station work fine
And these were like $1 for 2 at the gas station.. buy 2 packs they burn down really fast.. they fit right in the pump opening which was nice
And these were like $1 for 2 at the gas station.. buy 2 packs they burn down really fast.. they fit right in the pump opening which was nice
harvenator
A fish called Wanda
Had a similar problem and found a leaking intake gasket. Changed it paying particular attention to the gaps that need RTV.
I chased this for over a year and that was the solution.
Can you tell me where u needed the rtv?
Tomorrow the top comes off so we will see.
JC71340
Well-Known Member
eagerly await the answer...
Tore off the top and dug a little deeper.
Not seeing a bunch of oil in the runners. Nicely ported tho. It was assembled when I picked it up so I haven't seen the runners before.
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Some on top of the valves. Thinkin valve seals are part of it.
Whether its valve seals or rings I'm not dealing with it so I'm prepping it to go to the shop. The one I use has a dyno so they can fix it and dyno it to make sure it doesn't leak and tell me the output.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
if the second ring is installed upside down everything is fine for the first half hour
then you get exactly the problem you see...
don't ask......
ok i'll say anyway
in the early - mid 2000s Sealed power rings for 318s and similar came with comprehensive instructions. 2 full sides of tiny print and pictures, on a fold of A4, or sometimes very very tiny print-out of the same info on A5 paper
basic rings come either with or without dots to show top. It says if they don't have dots you are dependent on a visual cross section image to ID your ring and its orientation. the images show various styles of taper to inner and outer side of ring. some perpendicular, some not, some with corner cut to make a chamfer, some with both corners cut, some with opposing corners across the diagonal cut. but they are not particularly explicit about which is the inner and outer side of the ring in the image.
their basic rings come with dot for top ring and nothing on the second ring
however the instructions cover every ring, for every thing, they have ever made, Tanks, lawn mowers, race cars etc, every type of piston ring you can imagine.
All of the "special" stuff is discussed first, and yes you will see cross section images about 3/4 of the way through... which could be just what you need to identify type and orientation of your second ring... but its not.
You have worked you way through, dismissing numerous ring styles as "not my ring" until you get to this point...... and yes ...... they do appear to be Your rings.......WRONG. Your rings do not have the taper shown...they have similar but not the same.....
For a basic set of moly rings for a 318 340 360 225 265 whatever...
the detail you need is in the last sentence on the back of the sheet after all of the pictures, after all of the rings, you will never ever use.
its in the
"FOR EVERYTHING ELSE" section (two lines of text)
anything that isn't what we have discussed so far, do x for the top and y for the second ring...
if the installers head was turned by the images then i can understand how a second ring may be upside down.
basically the more rings you fit the less likely you are to read the instructions and get caught out.... even if they cost double there ain't nothing special about these rings... they are just moly faced standard rings....
i only discovered what i had done by buying rings from another unrelated company....their instructions were minimal, but to the point, and specific to what was in the box, they had dots on both top and second ring. A comparison of what came out with what needed to go in, with a magnifying glass illustrated my failure
its a long time ago.......but....I'm still embarrassed
motor exhibits good compression
everyone thinks its valve seals or a gasket problem
an hours use fouls the plugs
the smoke out the back is like something james bond would employ
performance, initially great, degrades quickly
you find oil in places where oil should not be.
because you second ring is acting like a dam or boom to pull oil up the bore....not what you need
Dave
then you get exactly the problem you see...
don't ask......
ok i'll say anyway
in the early - mid 2000s Sealed power rings for 318s and similar came with comprehensive instructions. 2 full sides of tiny print and pictures, on a fold of A4, or sometimes very very tiny print-out of the same info on A5 paper
basic rings come either with or without dots to show top. It says if they don't have dots you are dependent on a visual cross section image to ID your ring and its orientation. the images show various styles of taper to inner and outer side of ring. some perpendicular, some not, some with corner cut to make a chamfer, some with both corners cut, some with opposing corners across the diagonal cut. but they are not particularly explicit about which is the inner and outer side of the ring in the image.
their basic rings come with dot for top ring and nothing on the second ring
however the instructions cover every ring, for every thing, they have ever made, Tanks, lawn mowers, race cars etc, every type of piston ring you can imagine.
All of the "special" stuff is discussed first, and yes you will see cross section images about 3/4 of the way through... which could be just what you need to identify type and orientation of your second ring... but its not.
You have worked you way through, dismissing numerous ring styles as "not my ring" until you get to this point...... and yes ...... they do appear to be Your rings.......WRONG. Your rings do not have the taper shown...they have similar but not the same.....
For a basic set of moly rings for a 318 340 360 225 265 whatever...
the detail you need is in the last sentence on the back of the sheet after all of the pictures, after all of the rings, you will never ever use.
its in the
"FOR EVERYTHING ELSE" section (two lines of text)
anything that isn't what we have discussed so far, do x for the top and y for the second ring...
if the installers head was turned by the images then i can understand how a second ring may be upside down.
basically the more rings you fit the less likely you are to read the instructions and get caught out.... even if they cost double there ain't nothing special about these rings... they are just moly faced standard rings....
i only discovered what i had done by buying rings from another unrelated company....their instructions were minimal, but to the point, and specific to what was in the box, they had dots on both top and second ring. A comparison of what came out with what needed to go in, with a magnifying glass illustrated my failure
its a long time ago.......but....I'm still embarrassed
motor exhibits good compression
everyone thinks its valve seals or a gasket problem
an hours use fouls the plugs
the smoke out the back is like something james bond would employ
performance, initially great, degrades quickly
you find oil in places where oil should not be.
because you second ring is acting like a dam or boom to pull oil up the bore....not what you need
Dave
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That sure sounds like it. The shop I used specializes in head work. Valves, porting blending etc. They occasionally do a complete motor. Going to a different shop this time. They do complete motors for circle track, drag and street. They also have an engine dyno for break in and tuning. What you get is a ready to drop in product. They did the motor on my 69 Dart and did great.
Supermoss
Member
Look down inside your intake with your carb off. Oil will pool in the area where its sucking and gets worse with a choppy cam and the reversion effect.
Don't overlook the simple things. Had two very top shelf engines do this. Use Ford gray silicon on the bottom half of all the intake ports and both sides of gaskets sparingly.
Don't overlook the simple things. Had two very top shelf engines do this. Use Ford gray silicon on the bottom half of all the intake ports and both sides of gaskets sparingly.
Did Leanna (RIP) do those valve covers?
Yes she did Rob. U recognize her top quality work. She did the matching air cleaner too. Nicest parts on the car.
Pulled the motor today and got a look inside the exhaust ports.
Now I gotta find out why.
Now I gotta find out why.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Is it true that the oil predominately gets sucked in on the intake valve and seal, because the exhaust side has positive pressure?
I've replaced the intake side umbrella seals on several motors with the heads on and engine in car using the old rope or air pressure trick. All of those repairs worked and solved the problem. The other trick is to use the small plastic valve condom to slide the seals over the valves sharp keeper grooves, so the seals don't get cut up.
I've replaced the intake side umbrella seals on several motors with the heads on and engine in car using the old rope or air pressure trick. All of those repairs worked and solved the problem. The other trick is to use the small plastic valve condom to slide the seals over the valves sharp keeper grooves, so the seals don't get cut up.
At overlap you can pull oil past the exhaust valve.
So the journey begins. Thought you guys would like to see prices as we go along.
Shop tore down the motor.. No bueno.
Cross hatch on the cylinders isn't the same depth. Yes I can catch a fingernail on the crank groove.
Shop thinks the motor was assemble without adequate cleaning and ran a bunch of stuff around. I can't wait for the bill on my freshly rebuilt motor!
JC71340
Well-Known Member
Well, on the bright side, at least you can stop looking for the problem!
Anybody want to grate some cheese?
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