I wasn't furious until I saw the bearings.
Oil be darn
- Thread starter 69conv
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Well, hopefully it will be right as rain when they go back together. Are you making any changes?
Considering the fact that she would break them loose at will and burn til I let up its probably all the power I want with this ride. The frame is a little rusty and I'm afraid to make her hook better. I know there is always a faster car out there and frankly she will give a good run for her money to the BB Dart I gave away. At least for now...
This shop will do a dyno and I want to see what a proper air fuel mixture with no oil in the mix will produce.
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So many moons ago a good friend of mine ran a dyno program to help me pick a cam. These are the specs I provided.
Ha! I didn't think anybody wouldda kept those. I wish I could find a program that worked in Chrome.
Are you kidding? I have underware old enough to vote!!
Guess I better keep it below 9 grand. lol
mopar head
DoD nuisance Alien/Squatch extermination team
I`m confusion, Did you have the shop reassemble and run it on the dyno with no oil? If so,,, lol
jimjimjimmy
lobsterman
Maybe i'm wrong , but by the pics it looks like old bores with the top ridge cut off , moly rings don't get along very good with old bores .
jimjimjimmy
lobsterman
my engine made 19 more hp with the proper sealed up rings then the old oil suckin wrong rings everything else the same .
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Two things:
I see the oil galley plugs remain in place, but I realize this may have been a result of early photos of the disassembly.
Consider the cost of a complete stroker kit with forged internals compared to the cost of machining the old parts. There are some great deals out there on reciprocating assemblies out there and here on this forum.
Same thing goes for the heads. Compare the cost of rebuilding yours versus a nice set of aftermarket & "checked out" aluminum heads. I like to repaint mine engine color.
What are you going to do for a camshaft & lifters etc?
You may want to run a Jomar 100% No-Bypass oil filter on the fresh build. It's saved my bottom end when valve train harmonics destroyed the needle bearings in my T&D exhaust rockers. Highly recommended!
Good luck.
I see the oil galley plugs remain in place, but I realize this may have been a result of early photos of the disassembly.
Consider the cost of a complete stroker kit with forged internals compared to the cost of machining the old parts. There are some great deals out there on reciprocating assemblies out there and here on this forum.
Same thing goes for the heads. Compare the cost of rebuilding yours versus a nice set of aftermarket & "checked out" aluminum heads. I like to repaint mine engine color.
What are you going to do for a camshaft & lifters etc?
You may want to run a Jomar 100% No-Bypass oil filter on the fresh build. It's saved my bottom end when valve train harmonics destroyed the needle bearings in my T&D exhaust rockers. Highly recommended!
Good luck.
We checked the rings while I was there and all were assembled in the correct orientation. I haven't seen the cam yet so thats still a question mark. The guy who tore it down took some pics of what looks like blue umbrella seals lying on the floor of the head.
Theres this little guy on my shoulder named Mite Aswell. While your in there you might as well...Problem is I was pretty happy with how it ran, and if sealing it better improves performance, I dont know. Guess I'll wait for more complete information. BTW any guesses on what it will cost so far?
No, this is a dyno guess from 11 years ago based on the components I built the motor with. I think it will be interesting to see how accurate it is if its reassembled properly.
$2000 w/o cam & lifters.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Not that this is related to the issues that pushed you to pull the engine, but…….. is that braze in the right exhaust port?
The bearings look like the engine was assembled in a dirt factory.
The bearings look like the engine was assembled in a dirt factory.
Thanks for taking a look. Its where I wiped the oil sludge coating the bottom of the runner. Yeah it is that nasty.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I know that guy too. Good buddy of mine. And, I always was good at spending other people's money.
man, i only know Justin Case. that dude never lets me buy anything fun or cool. it's always practical stuff! like an extra fuel pump gasket!
4eighteener
Well-Known Member
Always good to have spare parts on hand. I tend to wait until things actually break and wind up talking to Ben Dover at the parts warehouse
BigE
Member
Annoying when you paid good money to a "professional shop" and wind up with a 250 mile wonder motor. Too bad it's been so long since it was built last time.
Wasn't bad pulling the motor, but it's always more fun to get them back on the street.
Between all the machine work, new parts and the labor I will guess this lands in the $4000 range depending on keeping it at the same level or if you plan to rank up the power anymore. Maybe with the Mopar tax it goes to $5000.
Wasn't bad pulling the motor, but it's always more fun to get them back on the street.
Between all the machine work, new parts and the labor I will guess this lands in the $4000 range depending on keeping it at the same level or if you plan to rank up the power anymore. Maybe with the Mopar tax it goes to $5000.
My bourbon buddy!! Thanks for helping me pull the motor. I'm afraid you are gonna be about right on the bill. Hard to be patient and gather all the facts. Adam says looks like rings and bearings were replaced and no machining other than some head porting. Assembled a dirty motor and the fresh oil broke some stuff loo on top of that. Sounds like a likely scenario. He is also guiding me toward aftermarket heads. These have the original 1.88 intake valves.
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