63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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Ok, here's the latest~ I put this behemoth factory fan on and immdiatley felt the draw of air in front of the condersor and a whirlwind of air with the hood up. So, with the hood down, I got comfy in the cab not going anywhere, radio turned up, varying the Rpms, no more than 2k, but a steady 1k then idle, AC on. After 15 minutes, it crept up to 185. Actually, one time I hit 2500rpm and saw the needle come down a mark! I'm not getting excited yet, the outside temp right now is only 84 degrees. I'll give a good go tomorrow morning and see what happens. The blades are closer to the radiator making installation fun for my long skinny fingers :lol:

If all goes well, do I put the timing back up to 10 degrees or just leave it at the 5 degrees for now?

Fingers crossed!

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If it is happy at 5 leave it the higher it is the hotter it will run. Hey ever think about heat wrapping the exhaust manifold? Also a shroud will do wonders also.
 
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Well it’s easy enough to move timing, so 8 degrees it will be, and Ray, as for the fan shroud, I’m going to redesign it, mine was cutting corners so to speak as George pointed out;)
 
Hey Ray, I’m sure I gapped the plugs at whatever you told me, guessing 45, darn I had those plugs out and didn’t check:(. As for exhaust wrap, I did wrap a couple feet of the exhaust pipe mainly to protect the clutch slave cylinder;)
 
The exhaust manifold itself. PIA but it will help. They look 45 in the pic. another thing that can help is drop them one heat range after it is broken in. Will drop a few degrees also when the rings seat and less friction if it makes sense. Get 3K on it change the oil then worry about the tweaks.
 
Thank you Ray;)
I can’t imagine wrapping the exhaust manifold, though the intake/exhaust has been in production forever, I’m amazed that it wouldn’t overheat with the exhaust manifold being right there especially right beside the T stat housing, let’s see the exhaust manifold gets up to 350 degrees or more;). I know it’s kind of a physics thing and heat dissipation, oh gee I’m thinking too much:lol:

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I had to wrap my headers in the 440 dart just because of the heat they threw off. Pics after the engine fire coming out in the spring again to re paint

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Omg Ray, that’s a lot of engine right there!!
Oh forgot to mention on one of my test drives, came up to a stop sign, revved the engine up a bit and spun the rear tires with a neat tire squeal, both rear tires , kind of cool. When I get nervous my right foot gets a little shaky, when I get comfortable with this car that will subside. I need a Valium before test drives :lol:
 
Weed is legal there right? :rolleyes:

My first serious test drive was a nail biter. Had it up no kidding around 120 and black smoke started pouring out the body lines. Was right near the daughters and coasted into her driveway with a hose. I always have a fire extinguisher for the car, used the last squirt. Freaking throttle cable rubbed through the wires and started a bad fire and got the fuel line also. Man it was close. Lesson learned dump the chemical extinguisher and get CO2 That stuff just eats paint and aluminum.
 
lol. Weed doesn’t like me, I get whacky, also I’d myself a favor by not drinking coffee before test drives :lol:

Ok, heading to the garage to see what’s up
 
Hi, I'm back!

I got out there, it wouldn't start, found out I had unplugged the HEI when loosening the dist hold down! grrrr

Started it, reset timing to 8 before TDC, the sat in the car, 77 degrees outside temp. however, sat in the car with AC running and took a while for the temp to get up but eventually got up to 200 towards the end of that time, with the AC off and idle up to 1500, the temp starts coming down.
I started thinking about the heat riser (HR), in the pic, I don't know which way is open, but in the pic was after running for a while, If I rev the engine, it goes counter clockwise and comes right back down when letting the rev off, but won't stay ccw when holding say 2k rpm. So would counter clockwise be opening the HR? IN the pic, and trying to turn it, it won't turn clockwise anymore than it is, but easily turns ccw. It turns easily by hand.

the white chalk represents the HR at cw, reving engine it goes ccw, but just for a second, stays like this most the time now that Im paying atttention to it

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Hi, I'm back!

I got out there, it wouldn't start, found out I had unplugged the HEI when loosening the dist hold down! grrrr

Started it, reset timing to 8 before TDC, the sat in the car, 77 degrees outside temp. however, sat in the car with AC running and took a while for the temp to get up but eventually got up to 200 towards the end of that time, with the AC off and idle up to 1500, the temp starts coming down.
I started thinking about the heat riser (HR), in the pic, I don't know which way is open, but in the pic was after running for a while, If I rev the engine, it goes counter clockwise and comes right back down when letting the rev off, but won't stay ccw when holding say 2k rpm. So would counter clockwise be opening the HR? IN the pic, and trying to turn it, it won't turn clockwise anymore than it is, but easily turns ccw. It turns easily by hand.

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If ccw is going against the spring tension, I would say that is opening the heat riser for straight through flow.

Wire it open... and watch the engine temp come down. :)

Heat riser for cold weather applications. Have removed them on all the mopars I have done. Don't want that flap blocking the hot exhaust gasses from getting out.

Don't want it heating up the intake manifolds either... fair weather game.


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Darn, I should have wired it a while back, but someone told me, "oh you need that, just make sure it's not locked up". I'm going to let the engine go stone cold and see where my chalk mark goes. So, turning it ccw by hand is full open? and what's a method for wiring it open? seems like I tried drilling a hole and it was hard material
 
Would say .045 ths is a good gap for your spark plugs > HEI, and 45,000 volt Pertronix PIII coil.

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.050 ths gap for the plugs with a 60,000 volt E-Core coil, as the higher voltage output can jump a bigger gap.

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Ok, wired it open, figuring this direction ccw is open. Not the prettiest job, but is an experiment. Took 14minutes to get up to 200 Took a while to get there. 400 degrees on the first exhaust manifold coming off the head, of course that varies.
got to go, gary wants a hamburger lol

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Do they make a high flow water pump for the slant? If so, get one along with a good high flow thermostat (degree of your choice) that should fix it right up.

My thought is, as you're driving the temperatures are okay. Then when you slow down, the water pump isn't spinning as fast. Temps increase.

Also check your pulley ratios. You want the wp smaller than the crank.
 
I'm going insane! I went for a drive varying speeds 20-50mph long straights, curvy roads, maintains 150-160 temp about 10 miles. Outside temp is 85, cloudy. If I slow down or stop at a red light, temp starts creeping up to 175. Pull into my garage, after 5 minutes reaches 199 (ac on all the time 40 degrees output), I can turn the AC off, but doesn't seem to make that much differenc. So, as long as I don't stop I'm ok. The solid fan seems to help but is rather loud like when shifting reaching 3-3500 rpms.
I do have the other flex fan coming, and could start on fabricating another shroud.
 
Yes! exactly! I didn't know there was/is such a thing as a high volume water pump. As far as the wp pully goes, I'm pretty sure it is smaller than the crank, but I'll have to recheck. oh, and a high flow thermostat? :thankyou::thankyou:
At least I can drive it, just don't get stuck in traffic
Do they make a high flow water pump for the slant? If so, get one along with a good high flow thermostat (degree of your choice) that should fix it right up.

My thought is, as you're driving the temperatures are okay. Then when you slow down, the water pump isn't spinning as fast. Temps increase.

Also check your pulley ratios. You want the wp smaller than the crank.
 
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I'm going insane! I went for a drive varying speeds 20-50mph long straights, curvy roads, maintains 150-160 temp about 10 miles. Outside temp is 85, cloudy. If I slow down or stop at a red light, temp starts creeping up to 175. Pull into my garage, after 5 minutes reaches 199 (ac on all the time 40 degrees output), I can turn the AC off, but doesn't seem to make that much differenc. So, as long as I don't stop I'm ok. The solid fan seems to help but is rather loud like when shifting reaching 3-3500 rpms.
I do have the other flex fan coming, and could start on fabricating another shroud.

New fan coming in will probably be quieter, flex blade fan. Blades straighten out when in the upper rpms... goes quiet.

Let's see what the new fan does without the shroud. If it's the fan I am thinking, those paddles will scoop the air at low rpm.

Kind of like a clutch fan the way it "disengages" in the higher rpms.

Fingers Crossed...


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:thumbsup: Great idea! Should be here tomorrow;)
New fan coming in will probably be quieter, flex blade fan. Blades straighten out when in the upper rpms... goes quiet.

Let's see what the new fan does without the shroud. If it's the fan I am thinking, those paddles will scoop the air at low rpm.

Kind of like a clutch fan the way it "disengages" in the higher rpms.

Fingers Crossed...


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