TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Dress the rough edges of that piston with a file or a rotary carbide and it’ll be fine. I’d definitely replace the lifter and I’d try to file the dogbone and reuse it. If not they’re cheap.
5.9 Magnum Street Build - with dyno numbers
- Thread starter DMC_78
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RAMM
Well-Known Member
I'd use a sanding roll that mark is nothing. Also that valve will be awful to get out. Someone may have to get that valve open a bit more and use a cutoff wheel to remove the head. You can then see which way it wants to go the easiest. Oh and you will likely find a few more that were on their way to seizing. J.Rob
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Might be a good idea to dress the edges of the contact witness marks on that piston.
Congrats on this your first time build and to the dyno operators quick catch saving time, energy and money on an otherwise good build. This correction won’t take long and you’ll have a really nice easy going and driving engine up and running shortly.
Looking forward to the future of this build.
Thanks! The engine will be repaired and hopefully tested by the time my truck is ready to come out of winter storage. Really looking forward to feeling the power on the pavement.
I wanted an engine that could drive anywhere and hopefully make the power of my newer Hemi 1500. I was pretty happy when we passed the goal without any tuning.
Can’t wait to see if the engine responds to a little timing and getting the secondaries opened sooner.
Oh, it’ll respond. It may not be a whole lot more, but it’ll be smoother and on point. When it gets into the truck, you will probably have to retune the carb a little bit. Just a tad. The difference between a dyno and real world in vehicle is a quick adjustment.
The dyno load isn’t the same as in vehicle.
I put a pair of Indy LAX heads on my 360 back in 2012. They of course are (were, since I believe they are no longer available) Magnum type heads with provision for rocker arm shafts like a pre-Magnum small block. I put them on as delivered except for port matching. With less than 100 miles on them, the #7 intake valve stuck open. I drove it the five miles to home. Popped the driver's side valve cover and the problem was obvious.
The #7 intake valve looked like this:
Fortunately, I had factory replacement cast pistons that were .090 below deck at TDC. Also, the cam was a mild Mopar Performance grind with .450/.455 lift. Once the valve bent, it cleared the piston - without even leaving a mark on it. The valve seat in the head was undamaged. Bought one new intake valve from Indy, the machine shop opened the guide a tad, and put it back together. I don't think I even had to replace the pushrod, but it's been a while, so maybe I'm just not remembering.
That was before I ever heard of FABO. If I had been able to read this post back then, I probably would have gone ahead and installed bronze wall liners, but I did not. Anyway, it's been fine for more than a dozen years now.
The #7 intake valve looked like this:
Fortunately, I had factory replacement cast pistons that were .090 below deck at TDC. Also, the cam was a mild Mopar Performance grind with .450/.455 lift. Once the valve bent, it cleared the piston - without even leaving a mark on it. The valve seat in the head was undamaged. Bought one new intake valve from Indy, the machine shop opened the guide a tad, and put it back together. I don't think I even had to replace the pushrod, but it's been a while, so maybe I'm just not remembering.
That was before I ever heard of FABO. If I had been able to read this post back then, I probably would have gone ahead and installed bronze wall liners, but I did not. Anyway, it's been fine for more than a dozen years now.
Yup. Sure did
Won't ever buy a set of heads again on the basis of "ready to run out of the box" because they AREN'T. I spent a lot of money on those heads and the doomed rebuild just to have to spend more damn money on a redo
coincidentally, the only time i've stuck a valve was also with a magnum, on the dyno after i had a fair bit of street miles on it. though it was with some fresh RT heads, she hung #2 intake kissed the piston and cracked the guide. whipped both heads off, out for checks/guides and back together to make another run at the rollers.
and thatkids is how i met your mother is how i got a job at a dyno shop
and that
On mine it was #4 exhaust that kissed the piston and bent, machine shop said that set of heads, they had never previously had a set where all the valves were so stuck. Engines that had sat in a pasture for 30+ years whose valves weren't near as stuck in their heads as the valves were in this set of EQ heads
I am dropping my heads off tomorrow at the machine shop. Be interesting to see what they find.
Max65
Well-Known Member
Those are GREAT numbers. I built a 408 stroker from an early 360 block. 424hp, 475TQ. Small valve RHS steel heads, Mahle 9.5 pistons, custom cam for efi, victor jr single plane
Thanks! I was happy, now next time we can get things ironed out a touch more.
The machine shop said the heads will take 2 to 3 weeks to repair. Hoping there is still material in the seats for them to touch up nicely.
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