I'm sure most people doing body work use Bondo/fiberglass to a certain extent. There is certainly a place in the car hobby for it. Newer products and tecniques are being used . It is probably the most popular choice for many repairs in the classic car hobby. It has many advantages when done properly and may be the best choice for you and your car.
Bondo/fiberglass as the right choice
- Thread starter Kemper
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Fiber strand / Duraglass on all seams , Then finish over that with Bondo / Plastic, Ruff it in with #36 then #80 and coat it with a good fill-in-sand urethane. Block it #220 then reprime let it sit for 2 days and re block it with #400. and then edge the car with color, then #600. for paint.
That is the way I was doing it for years. If there is a newer product to eliminate that worK I would like to hear it. I am getting to old for all that block sanding
That is the way I was doing it for years. If there is a newer product to eliminate that worK I would like to hear it. I am getting to old for all that block sanding
Car looks nice . What you did was the right thing for that car and very practical . When you are not this guy you actually have something worth showing for your efforts. -
72bluNblu said:
....Welds don’t need to be covered with anything different than any other metal. It they’re structural just paint them, if it’s bodywork grind them smooth and paint them.
72bluNblu said:
....Welds don’t need to be covered with anything different than any other metal. It they’re structural just paint them, if it’s bodywork grind them smooth and paint them.
question: would anybody here regard a repair using galvanized screen and bondo as "done properly"?
What would be used on quarter to roof seams and tail panel to quarter seams. Factory used lead unless they were vinyl top cars, they got bondo that bondo eventually bubbled under the vinyl due to not being moisture resistant. I don't think paint would fill that in to good. Unless you have some very thick welds.
If it were mine I would use bondo and make sure it is sealed and treated inside and out . It would probably eventually fail as anything would if the car was used and in the same environment for the same period of time as before.
You know original work failed .
It's hard to find a video of someone doing a good bondo repair, but I've found one . I haven't watched the whole thing but want to point out what starts a little after the 2:00 mark. He is actually treating from behind . I wonder if anybody here has seen a failed bondo repair that was similarly treated.
what about glueing it old man
i know my body guy glues rocks/quarter on
so you don't expose raw steel
not the way ma mopar did it but the latest and greatest way
i know my body guy glues rocks/quarter on
so you don't expose raw steel
not the way ma mopar did it but the latest and greatest way
rust is still on the inside ...they rust from the inner foam
nice for a flip ...give it a winter
He removed the rust and that little piece of foam, then primed the area and then coated with " Stone Guard " according to the video. Might last longer than original did , we know that failed, but I don't know what the foam piece was all about.
It will bubble in a year or two. Need to remove that metal. It is 10x worse on the backside
How long did/will new metal last ?
Much longer than that "repair"!
He did not remove the rust.. the rust is on the back side of the metal for that issue.
Ohh boy, here we go AGAIN!
And for rocker repair make sure you use LOW expansion foam. If you use HIGH the doors may not close on that shitbox.
And for rocker repair make sure you use LOW expansion foam. If you use HIGH the doors may not close on that shitbox.
Ohh boy, here we go AGAIN!
And for rocker repair make sure you use LOW expansion foam. If you use HIGH the doors may not close on that shitbox.
To give this some "context". Some threads have been deleted, but you get the "idea" lol
Bondo - a long time assett to the car community
Oh here's another about FACTORY .030 pistons
How rare are 273 Commando factory pistons .030 over ?
Bondo - a long time assett to the car community
Oh here's another about FACTORY .030 pistons
How rare are 273 Commando factory pistons .030 over ?
Why would you have an estimate on that type of repair and not one for a metal repair ?
I think we have no real data on fiberglass repairs that were done in a similar fashion as most were probably not treated and sealed. The environment the car will be in is the biggest factor so any estimates on how long either will last..depends.
Aside from that - this might be the most practical way for this repair on this car. What would be an estimated cost of a metal repair on this be , assuming the person wouldn't do it themselves ?
There is nothing I can say that will convince anyone. You need to cut out areas like that and look at the metal on the backside on a number of cars to truly understand. What he did is a bandaid.
I thought you may have an estimate of cost for that before we can say what the person needs to do.
A metal/restoration guy I know stabs the metal with an ice pick to decide what to do... if the pick penetrates the metal then it is a 1-2 year repair if it does not it could be a 5 year + repair in wet climates (he lives in Maryland). I live in Az which is not a fair comparison for 90% of the country. It could last forever if you never get it wet here.
Oh and estimate to repair....from pictures and video??
All this bs so that you can feel "justified"?
Who cares really? Your car fix it however the f you want, BUT quit trying to get justification with these stupid *** threads.
All this bs so that you can feel "justified"?
Who cares really? Your car fix it however the f you want, BUT quit trying to get justification with these stupid *** threads.
That would probably mean a car that is only driven occasionally and not often in bad conditions may be good for 50 years or more just by rough estimates and if it passed the ice pick test.
What is the cost for getting a repair like that done ?
That varies DRASTICALLY across the country depending on area, probably 2x-3x difference is possible from what I understand. Az is much cheaper than other parts of the country.
Can I ask what are you really trying to get at with this thread? Are you trying to decide how to proceed with a project?
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