My transmission is difficult to get into 1st gear

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Demon499

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It seems like the transmission doesn't want to go into 1st or 2nd gear when it's not moving. It will go into 3rd or 4th when it's not rolling.
It has a brand new Hurst shifter, and it was rebuilt with the new parts to bring it up to the specks.
The A833 transmission was rebuilt befor it was used. When I rebuild it I had used the old synchronizer rings. Do you feel that this is the prolem.
Thank you...............Ted
 
Does it do this when the motor is idling or off?
Does it grind when shifting into 1st gear and 2nd?


Like dr dodge posted check linkage and clutch adjustments
 
I’d put my money on an 86 ranger.
swami-crystal-ball.jpg
 
It seems like the transmission doesn't want to go into 1st or 2nd gear when it's not moving. It will go into 3rd or 4th when it's not rolling.
It has a brand new Hurst shifter, and it was rebuilt with the new parts to bring it up to the specks.
The A833 transmission was rebuilt befor it was used. When I rebuild it I had used the old synchronizer rings. Do you feel that this is the prolem.
Thank you...............Ted
If it was ''rebuilt'' using the old synchronizer rings, it's not rebuilt.
Why didn't you replace them while it was apart?
I sure would have, they are relatively cheap insurance.
what oil are you running in the transmission?
Our old 833 gearboxes don't work well with synthetic oils.
They are too ''slippery''.
I use Pennzoil Syncromesh dino oil and it works well for me.
Even GL 4 75-90 works well except in extremely cold weather.
And also, regular Dexron 2 ATF works good if the tranny isn't used in extreme heat...

But that aside, I think that the real problem is in your clutch adjustment, which means that the clutch isn't disengaging properly while the engine is running.
What type of clutch do you have?
When I installed a new clutch on my Dart Sport some years ago, I went with a Center Force diaphragm clutch and pressure plate.
I needed to take out the over center spring in the pedal assembly and adjust it with almost zero end play on the pedal to get it to fully release.
Then after about 500 or so miles, I adjusted it to about 1/2'' on the pedal for freeplay and it worked well after it was ''broken in''.
You still had to almost push the pedal to the floor to have it fully release.
BTW, I rebuilt the clutch linkage with all new parts before the new clutch installation.
It worked very well from the start...
 
OK here's what you were looking for.
First this is a 1972 Dodge Demon.
It has a 499c.i. engine. The trans is a A833.
Clutch is a McLeod dual disc clutch

Now on to the interesting stuff. When I was rebuilding it I looked these 2 sets of sycro's and they both still had the rings still inside the counter bore. So I reused them.
It could be the issue.
The fluid is the Pennzoil Syncromesh oil. I had read that this one works the best for a 4 speed.
I am thinking about your thoughts about the clutch. It is problem not disengaging just enough to keep it what I am seeing.
I will check the adjuster when I can.
Thank you.................Ted
 
The old synchro rings are certainly not helping..... the rings inside can still be there, but they can be worn and not 'grabbing' right.

One more caution to add: Be careful a newer GL-5 trannie fluid with older brass synchro rings. There are sulfur compounds in GL-5 that increase the pressure they can withstand, but those same sulfur compounds attack the brass in the older synchro rings. This is not universal in all GL-5 fluids but some do have this problem.

Here is a good discussion of this:
 

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