69 340 problems

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Thanks George, Im very happy for her. She found her self a good guy.
 
Glad to hear the new chain made a differance in tighting it up. At least you didn't waste $100.00.
Did you try taking a spark plug out and grounding it and craking it over. Should have a good spark. The ballast resistor only works with the key in the run posistion. It's bypassed during the key start posistion.
See if you can bum a known good carb and try that. Sounds like you have some dirt in your's. Try taking out the idle mixture screws out and cleaning the screws and seats.
Hang in there. you;ll get it.
 
bobscuda67 said:
Glad to hear the new chain made a differance in tighting it up. At least you didn't waste $100.00.
Did you try taking a spark plug out and grounding it and craking it over. Should have a good spark. The ballast resistor only works with the key in the run posistion. It's bypassed during the key start posistion.
See if you can bum a known good carb and try that. Sounds like you have some dirt in your's. Try taking out the idle mixture screws out and cleaning the screws and seats.
Hang in there. you;ll get it.
Click to expand...

Bob,
No, I haven't checked for spark with the plug(s) removed. I just figured since the car DOES sputter when I try to start it, that it has spark. I'll add this test to my list. Kim (Nothingbutdarts) also suggested the same test.
I wish I had a carb I could try. There is an Edelbrock for sale in the Parts For Sale section that I responded too, but he's asking $125 for it. I don't mind paying that for a good running carb, but I don't want to buy it only to discover it was unnecessary, or that my factory linkages won't work correctly with it.
The AVS carb that is on the car is the numbers matching original to the car so I kinda wanted to keep it. If it is going to give me problems, though, I will remove it and keep it on the shelf.
Having said that, the AVS only has ONE adjustment screw in the front of it. I noticed that it is a left hand thread screw, but I never really moved it from where my carb rebuilder set it.

George
 
George, it does get frustrating, but honestly, the wayto repair is to test and find the problem before you tear in and complicate. Your ignition switch has a start and a run circuit. Having juice at the coil on run is good. 6volts is enough to run the car, but have you looked at the points, or the rubbing block on the distributor? It still sounds like electrical to me... Sputter is presence of some form of a spark. Not a definate good one. Just a spark. When you get it all together, try sprying some carb cleaner down the carb and starting it. If it runs on carb cleaner, it needs fuel. If it sputters, it's not fuel.
 
I had a similar problem with my fuel line. There was so much crud in the inlet tube of the fuel pick up, that only a pin hole was open. I could blow air into the tank and hear bubbles, but this would not allow enough fuel to flow. Maybe this will help you.
 
Replaced the timing chain, and bought an oil slinger. Put it all back together and same stuff as before.
I'll see if the new carb helps it once it arrives.
I'm at my wits end.

George
 
Try a different coil! They do go bad and even got a bad super coil brand new one time! Also.... could someone have sugared your fuel? Pump it all out, empty the carb run some Berrymans through the whole fuel system and might even do a water injection on the engine while running.... like when you want to remove carbon.... pouring water down the throttle bores while reving it up a bit.... be very careful not to pour too much! ..are you familiar with this trick?
 
You could hook one end of a hose to the fuel pump and drop the other end in a can of gas and see how it runs. That will rule out the the fuel line.
 
The carb is filled with fuel. The floats are all the way to the top of their travel so I know the bowls are full. There isn't enough gas getting in the motor so I assume the carb is screwed up internally. I'll wait for the Edelbrock to asrrive, then PRAY thats the trouble. :D

Thanks fellas,
George
 
What material is the accelerator pump cup made of?Is it possible the gas has eaten that up and it no longer can seal to the wall of the cavity?How is the hole itself?Any scars in it or pits where the gas might be bypassing the plunger?Bob
 
I replaced the carb with the Edelbrock I just bought, and it still does the same thing. Will not start, but tries to.
Maybe I need a crash course on how to set the points?
On a GM, you can adjust the dwell with a special tool through a window on the dist cap. How do you set it on a Mopar?
I set a gap of .016" with the points on high cam. Is that right.

I HATE this car right now. Really. Now I'm $200 into the problem and it still doesn't run.

George
 
16 thou is too much. Dwell effects performance but points only need to open and close for run. Try 10 thou. If you distrutor shaft is wobbling you may be getting fire on only half the engine.
 
I stuck a screwdriver in the boot of the #2 plug wire while my wife cranked the engine. It has a weak spark, and it doesn't SEEM to fire on every revolution.
Think maybe the distributer is bad? I got it in a bad deal last summer so I have no idea what kind of shape it's in. I took it apart before I put it in the car, cleaned it all up inside, regreased it and replaced the advance springs. I spun the dist over by hand while it was apart and it felt smooth.
Like I said the car ran great before this mess happened.

George
 
Your point gap should be around .017 to yield a dwell of 40*. Both dwell and point gap can vary a digit or two e.g.- gap= .015-.019 and dwell= 38-42. If you`re having problems getting things synched up you can run it with one set of points if you have to.
 
Thanks,
Its a single point distributor from a 318 according to the tag.
I should be in that range, but no start.

George
 
Do you remember doing anything to the car before it started acting up? Did you change out a part, unplug anything, was there something that could have caused a change in the way it was running?
 
I had a Dakota with a bad oil pump drive bushing. It acted just like your's. The spark timing was all over the place. You can take the dist. out and put it on a machine to see if it's good. Hang in there!
 
Not that I can think of.
It used to start by just clicking the key, and it did that day too.
I fired the car up, and it was running on fast idle for less than a minute, when all of a sudden it stumbled and died. That was about 2 or 3 weeks ago, and it hasn't started since.
I replaced the timing chain, fuel pump, and the carb. I pulled the dist out, removed the drivers side valve cover and made sure I was at TDC power stroke on #1 cylinder. Both rockers showed the valves were closed at that position.
I have 7 volts at the + side of the coil, power to both sides of the ballast resistor, fully charged battery, there's fuel in the engine, the squirters are now working on the new carb, the choke is closed.

George
 
bobscuda67 said:
I had a Dakota with a bad oil pump drive bushing. It acted just like your's. The spark timing was all over the place. You can take the dist. out and put it on a machine to see if it's good. Hang in there!
Click to expand...
What is an oil pump drive bushing and how can I check it?
Thanks,
George
 
I know you want to keep the car as factory appointed as possible George but if you want to opt for one modification that will really help the overall performance then invest in the MP electronic ignition. I did it on my 68 and hid the box under the dash.
 
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