Recent content by 412 Stroker

Longer valves, makes sense but I still would of had to pull both heads, as it was I had to pull one do to a bent valve when the roller on the rocker went over the valve tip and got caught long enough for the piston to hit it and bent the valve. I have Comp Cam COM901-16 Springs.

Thanks for the info, I was just curious as I had a set of Harland Sharps 1st gen version and the geometry was way off the only thing that would correct it was to mill down the shaft pedestals, so I sold them and got a set of these 273 rockers which line up perfectly, my cam is a Comp Thumper...

How much spring pressure can the 273 Adjustable rocker take before they break??

"At most 2 thin shims per rocker used to center rocker on valve." I take it that he used the shims to move the rockers over the valve tips, I had to do the same I just installed the exact same setup on my motor do to the Harland Sharp rockers I had the geometry was so far off the only way to...

Ok so I would like to keep the front brakes going through the in-line tube prop valve, and I want to plug the rear brake ports of the inline tube prop valve, then run a separate line from the master to the adjustable prop valve to the rear brakes, would putting plugs into the rear inlet & outlet...

So I guess what your saying is you try to cure one problem and create more, so then what is the best way to fix this or isn't there one?? the reason I am even thinking about doing this is my alternator went bad last year so I replaced it everything was fine, then this year my voltage regulator...

These are the ones you want, the geometry is dead on, I have Harland Sharps and while they are good rockers they dont line up near as good and the Hughes rockers do..

So I want to get some or all of the amperage not going through the ammeter, I figured I would wire in a voltmeter, now I did some research on these forums and of course now I am confused, hopefully someone will help, I have gone and looked at the MAD circuit rewire page and it says its for a...

Here's a video on it that I used to take mine apart, the above link from Bad Sport is good as well, I like videos if I can find one like this... https://youtu.be/O-O_DHzgCIk

5 years old SS from inline tube, we cracked the line lose from where the ss line and the hose goes together and the brakes released making us assume it was the master cylinder so I replaced that but it is still doing it. so it's not the hose.

Hello and thanks for any help/ideas, here is my problem, the rear brakes (drum) drag to the point that the drums get so hot they burn the paint off, but like this morning I drove approx. 20 miles no problem, then on the way home they heated up big time, this is what I have done, all new/reman...

This>>> I am downloading the ISO version of 64 bit, so I can make installation DVD's of them instead of the upgrade download. And I am waiting for at least a month to see what crops up, :violent1: according to MicroShaft we have a year to upgrade...

Thanks for the info, but just so I am clear you paid $199.97 plus shipping for each side so $400.00 plus shipping?? is that correct??

What springs do you have on it?? I am going to replace my springs wasn't sure which one to use.

Sprag could be shot??, your going to have to take that tranny out and go through it, boy I don't envy you doing that job unless you have a hoist, but if your doing it on your back...that's another story good luck!!