FROZEN/STUCK low miles motor, HELP!

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hellfirechrome

hellfirechrome

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I have a '65 that has been sitting here for a while, it used to crank 2-3 months ago but now won't budge. I pulled the starter, removed the head and right now it's had PB penetrating oil/spray soaking in the cylinders for 2 days. Any other ideas on freeing it up? Also, how am I supposed to use a breaker bar on the crank to help get it turned? The thing has no bolt on the front of the crankshaft, just a pulley with a hole in it, no place to bolt anything.... it's a 65k mi. 225, with 904 trans., manual steering and brakes, alternator. Cylinder walls look clean and no rust, shiny. It's a verified low miles car and this is frustrating as heck!
 
Pretty sure the crank is threaded, even though they didn't come with a bolt. It's the same size bolt and threads as a small block if I remember, but it takes a shorter bolt than the small block, so get some washers. P'Blaster is probably better than what you're using.
 
Use diesel and you wouldnt have to remove the head. Is it still in the car? If so get another crank pulley and cut some nothces in it with a band saw and use a breaker with an extension, 1 1/4" galvanized pipe works. Keep workin it will come loose.
 
Yeah I'm using P'Blaster.... forgot the name. Heh.... Peanut Butter engine blaster....

I'll try that with the crank pulley. I know a guy who should have one.... but if any Bay Area brothers wanna chime in first with a spare.... :)

I'll give it some love with the breaker bar and yeah I bet it'll free up. After that I just gotta flush the old fuel outta the lines, install some new pushrods and put it all back together. The carb sprays fine after a rebuild kit (test ran it on my '66). What a pain in the butt.....
 
Pull the starter and use a big screw driver or pry bar to move the ring gear. With the head off, you can put a piece of 2x4 in the cylinders and give it a good whack with a sledge hammer to break the rings loose.
 
Odd that it only sat 2-3 months then wouldn't turn.Did it get water in it?If they all seized in 2-3 months,I would never sell any motors.
 
Every /6 I've ever seen had a threaded hole in the crank and a big block crank bolt fits (it's shorter than a small block bolt). It sure seems strange that it's seized if the cylinder wall look good and there was no water in the bores. I don't mean to question your diagnosis, but how did you determine it was seized without a bolt to turn the crank?
 
lrazor said:
Every /6 I've ever seen had a threaded hole in the crank and a big block crank bolt fits (it's shorter than a small block bolt). It sure seems strange that it's seized if the cylinder wall look good and there was no water in the bores. I don't mean to question your diagnosis, but how did you determine it was seized without a bolt to turn the crank?
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Is it the big block bolt that fits? Sorry bout that.
 
Cudamark, I may just try that wit the wood if all else fails. As far as water? I live in wet, humid-air Berkeley. Ugh.

lrazor: I found it to be seized when I tried to jump it, to get it fired up. Starter could not turn the flywheel- starter activated and just sat there torquing itself (you'd know if you saw it). So, I pulled plugs, couldn't turn the crank pulley- was able to before. odd. Hasn't been run in a long time (last fall) but it did turn over by starter for months afterward, so it can't be a spun bearing that all-of-a-sudden stops a non-driven motor.... I am gonna pull the starter off my '66 and test it, just to be sure it isn't just "tight" with a bad starter. I am glad I pulled the head anyway, had a slightly bent rod or two. Maybe the last guy was careless.....

Where do I get a BB crank bolt?
 
hellfirechrome said:
Cudamark, I may just try that wit the wood if all else fails. As far as water? I live in wet, humid-air Berkeley. Ugh.

lrazor: I found it to be seized when I tried to jump it, to get it fired up. Starter could not turn the flywheel- starter activated and just sat there torquing itself (you'd know if you saw it). So, I pulled plugs, couldn't turn the crank pulley- was able to before. odd. Hasn't been run in a long time (last fall) but it did turn over by starter for months afterward, so it can't be a spun bearing that all-of-a-sudden stops a non-driven motor.... I am gonna pull the starter off my '66 and test it, just to be sure it isn't just "tight" with a bad starter. I am glad I pulled the head anyway, had a slightly bent rod or two. Maybe the last guy was careless.....

Where do I get a BB crank bolt?
Click to expand...
Carefull using the big block balancer bolt. They're shorter than a genuine slant 6 bolt and therefore doesn't go very deep into the crank hole. I've seen them strip out when torqued to factory specs. It would be better to use a small block one and add some washers to keep it from bottoming out but still keeping the threaded area deep into the crank.
 
cudamark said:
Carefull using the big block balancer bolt. They're shorter than a genuine slant 6 bolt and therefore doesn't go very deep into the crank hole. I've seen them strip out when torqued to factory specs. It would be better to use a small block one and add some washers to keep it from bottoming out but still keeping the threaded area deep into the crank.
Click to expand...
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Oh, here's a link to some stuff that's supposed to work good.

Seized engine problem? Engine Release works, or your money back!
 
tranny fluid really helps break stuff loose to, has a lot of detergents in it...

as for breaking it loose... dont try to spin it using the balancer... it will just throw the timing marks off... use the bolt method...
 
jack the car up-- & remove the tranny cover, use a pry bar to rock the engine back & forth-- do a little at a time--.Lawrence
 
805moparkid said:
...as for breaking it loose... dont try to spin it using the balancer... it will just throw the timing marks off... use the bolt method...
Click to expand...

The pulley should be bolted to the hub of the balancer. Turning the pulley by putting a slot in it & using a cheater would put the force on the hub. Shouldn't cause the ring to slip on the balancer.
 
805moparkid said:
tranny fluid really helps break stuff loose to, has a lot of detergents in it...

as for breaking it loose... dont try to spin it using the balancer... it will just throw the timing marks off... use the bolt method...
Click to expand...

I thought the slant 6 balancer was a solid steel wheel? am i wrong? Also, I used a small block bolt, from a 318 to turn my slant over. I didnt know there was a difference between big block and small block?
 
hellfirechrome said:
I have a '65 that has been sitting here for a while, it used to crank 2-3 months ago but now won't budge. I pulled the starter, removed the head and right now it's had PB penetrating oil/spray soaking in the cylinders for 2 days. Any other ideas on freeing it up? Also, how am I supposed to use a breaker bar on the crank to help get it turned? The thing has no bolt on the front of the crankshaft, just a pulley with a hole in it, no place to bolt anything.... it's a 65k mi. 225, with 904 trans., manual steering and brakes, alternator. Cylinder walls look clean and no rust, shiny. It's a verified low miles car and this is frustrating as heck!
Click to expand...
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Here's a photo of the different balancer bolts. From left to right....Big block, slant 6, and small block.
Mark
 

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I had a seized '65 273 engine that had sat outside and got water and leaves in it. Tried all kinds of fluids w/ air pressure with the heads on, soaking for weeks. I tried WD-40, diesel, DOT3 brake fluid, gasoline. Have also heard of using plain water, PB Blaster, coke. Diesel seemed best (or kerosine). After pulling the heads, I finally got all pistons out by beating from the top and bottom. The only thing that worked on some was a sledgehammer on a 2x4 across the piston crowns (Hi-Po raised ones), but I think working from both sides to go back and forth is best. I messed up several pistons by breaking off an aluminum corner on the bottom pin support, hammering on a socket extension. It was greasy, so I didn't see until too late. I should have let the engine soak in diesel for a year. Might have messed up the ring grooves on the other pistons, but that engine requires an over-bore anyway. At least your Slant Six pistons don't cost @#!@.

I have no idea why your engine would turn over, then be seized in a few months in a garage. Maybe a coolant leak caused corrosion. Even with water and leaves in mine, the only corrosion I found was on the cylinder walls and top of the head. Everything in the lower end was fine. It seems to get a permanent protective coating of oil over time.
 
HemiMark said:
I thought the slant 6 balancer was a solid steel wheel? am i wrong? Also, I used a small block bolt, from a 318 to turn my slant over. I didnt know there was a difference between big block and small block?
Click to expand...

yea they have an inner and outer "wheel" with a rubber band in the middle
 
Yeah all belts are off, I'll try the trans plate cover truck this weekend! Good advice.... I still have the option of just buying a running engine to bolt in, should all else fail :)

Gettin' wood to pound those pistons with this weekend and hopefully my pushrods. They sure don't make this easy.....
 
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