Another 273 to 318 swap questions

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EmersonC

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Been looking around and there is a lot of information out there and a lot of contradicting information as well.
I have a 66 dart gt vert that I have been slowly modifying. Came with a 273 2 bbl, I have a new mainfold and 4 bbl on there now, msd box, new distributor. The rear end is now a 8.75 with 3.22 gears out back. Tires are now 16's with power disc all the way around.

I have no automotive training, but the more I work on cars the more I realize I love it. This dart is my daily driver and the problem is I need it for work and cant do any major mods to it, unless I can do it fast. So I want to swap the engine, but I am hoping to make it a quick swap.

One of the main reasons I want to do this is because it sounds like fun to build an preformance street/strip engine (and drive it :burnout:). As always money is an issue. Some people talk about dropping in a 360, but I hear all sorts of headaces about that, particularly with the exhaust headers. For the 318 is there the same problem with the exhuast, currently I have the dual exhaust and power steering.

Again the hope here is to spend some time building an engine then dropping it into the dart over the weekend and drive to work on Monday. Would the 318 work well for this? As always comments and links to other threads are greatly appreciated.
 
Very simple to swap a 318 for the 273 done it twice in my 66 cuda and now in my 65 formula s. It will fit right in and work with your current electronic ignition parts! You just need to get the proper motor mounts which are very available from many different mopar parts people! Go for it as it is very easy to modify the 318 starting with head work to make it quicker. I had my 66 cuda set for drag/street car ran low 13's with good head work, electronic ignition, dual exhaust, 14 inch wheels and good transmission 904 work...Keep it simple silly attitude KISS methodology is the way to go!!! Down the road you can then go faster with more motor work, but you will find out it can cost more money and gas mileage is lousy, then car becomes non road worthy and drag only! My current 65 formula s w/318 is straight street car simple electronic ignition, ralley wheels, front disc brakes and ran 15.0 in 1/4 mile it will stay this way for now as it is street ride! Enjoy and have fun!
 
Go with the 360 parts are easy to find and everything is about the same.
 
WAIT a minute-----------

Is this a stick or auto?

The older torque converters and crank flanges were smaller than later, meaning you need a bushing ring in the newer engine crank recess to center the older, smaller converter

If this is a stick make SURE the crank is drilled deep enough for the input shaft. A common "cure" used to be to cut 3/8" or so off the input shaft. The crank hole won't be finished completely, and you'll either need an undersized pilot, have the pilot hole finished, or use a later Jeep style pilot which fits in the converter crank hole

So far as 273/318/360--and don't forget 340 -- some of them have different block ears, and you need the proper engine brackets. I actually adapted my original 273 brackets to fit a 360

There are NO exhaust clearance issues except----

You must have the proper manifolds to fit the BODY, not say, truck, motorhome, C body, etc

or use headers, which have their own problems regardless of engine size.

You'll need a center/ front sump pan, so depending on what the new engine came out of, you may need to use the 273 pan. It will NOT however, fit a 360.

Otherwise, any of the small blocks fit where "any" of them came out of.
 
Drop the 318 in and enjoy it. You can make a 318 run pretty hard with the proper balance of cam etc... Cruise the 318, find a 340 or 360 and put that on a stand and build it slowly until its done then swap that out. At least you can enjoy the car and not have any down time
 
I think it's do-able in a weekend if you do as much prep beforehand as possible, even to laying out the tools, etc. think of it as a medical procedure - doctors don't go into surgery and immediately start rummaging through a giant toolbox, they have everything laid out and an assistant at the ready. Same goes for a rush engine swap. Study the car beforehand and think and make a list of every tool and part you would need to dis- and re-assemble and have it driving. Theres lot of anciliary parts involved with it like fluids, belts, hoses, fasteners, wiring, etc. Might want to leave work early or call in on the Friday of the swap, and clear it with the wife/gf that it's "me" time and your not to be bothered until its done. Remember at the end of all this you have to break in a cam and you don't want to be doing that at 2am on a Monday morning (especially if you don't have an exhaust system hooked up), so any extra time you can save with prep work is invaluable, as is a competent helper, so if possible include them in the planning. Ever seen a race team tear down a top fuel motor between rounds? It's like a mad ballet, every action is timed and choreographed.
 
67Dart273 said:
WAIT a minute-----------

Is this a stick or auto?

The older torque converters and crank flanges were smaller than later, meaning you need a bushing ring in the newer engine crank recess to center the older, smaller converter



There are NO exhaust clearance issues except----

You must have the proper manifolds to fit the BODY, not say, truck, motorhome, C body, etc

or use headers, which have their own problems regardless of engine size.
Click to expand...

It is a 3 speed auto. As far as the bushing ring goes, is that a pretty easy part to get or do I need to rumage through a junk yard to get it?
I would rather go with the 360, it would be easier to get the power I want out of it (hoping for around 400hp), but I have heard nightmares about the headers with power steering. If I am building up an engine for some power wouldn't be a bit silly to use the stock manifold? So afternarket headers are trouble for the 360 340 and 318? What kind of options are out there?
 
The best header options I know of are in the first three sticky threads in this forum. Then there's the T.T.I. mondo expensive under chassis headers that lots of folk seem to have to hammer fit. There have been problems getting Harold at Spitfire Headers to come up with a set. For that matter, it's been some years since I've heard if he's still at it.

(I can hear the Harold Johnson stories already in the pipeline!!)
 
EmersonC said:
It is a 3 speed auto. As far as the bushing ring goes, is that a pretty easy part to get or do I need to rumage through a junk yard to get it?
Click to expand...

I have the adapter bushing available for $20 Shipping included. It is not a junk yard part. If interested send me a PM.
 
The headers are a problem with ALL small blocks, not just 360's. I have no good advice for you, but I believe IF you can score the rare 340 manifolds, for the 68/ later, you can make them work.

But you could certainly get a 360 in there and running with your present manifolds, get other issues sorted, and then take your time and research GOOD headers. I'd guess some sort of "shortie" is what you want. "Back in the day" it was fender exit headers.

If Charlie above can indeed supply a bushing, get one, unless you have a local guy and nearly free use of a lathe. It's a simple ring.

If you go 360, using your original torque converter, you'll also need to buy a special B&M flexplate designed to balance the 360. It is weighted to replace the weights that would be on a factory converter. About 80 bucks, I think. Make sure you get one for an LA and not a Magnum, which are unbalanced at different weights.
 
67dart273 is correct. Exhaust/Headers are the biggest problem. Layson's has the "spitfire" style headers available. I don't know if Harold is making them for Laysons, or if they are copies. I have both the standard style, and the engine swap style here, just for comparison. There is no "cheap" available, other then the stock 273 manifolds.
And yes, I can supply the bushing. They are in stock, and can ship, USPS Priority Mail. Delivery is usually 3-4 days, from payment.
 
Headman makes a set for early A like ours. I had a set a while back and they work good but are a pain to put in because of the steering box issue. I paid 700 bucks for them. They are out there. The 273 manifolds are really restrictive if you plan on making some hp.
 
gtmopar said:
Headman makes a set for early A like ours. I had a set a while back and they work good but are a pain to put in because of the steering box issue. I paid 700 bucks for them. They are out there. The 273 manifolds are really restrictive if you plan on making some hp.
Click to expand...

Hedman website, does not show headers for the 65-66 barracuda with a 273 engine. They do show headers for the 67 Barracuda.
 
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