416 Dyno Results

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68 340

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Location
Warren, Michigan
Below are my engine specifications and Dyno results.

416 engine
Edelbrock RPM Heads with stage 1 port work
11.25 compression
Lunati Voodoo Cam 242/252 Duration@50 533/550 lift
LD340 intake
825 Mighty Demon Carb
TTI Step Headers
Kevko Oil Pan
37 degrees timing
Forged Ross pistons, K1 Crankshaft and Scat I Beam Rods
MSD 6 AL ignition

Dyno results are not corrected.
Temperature: 93 degrees
Humidity: 22 percent
Barometer:29.56
Engine Temperature 165

Peak rwhp: 385@ 6000 rpm
Peak torque: 390 ft-lbs@ 4800 rpm

9 1/2 Dynamic Converter 4000 stall
4.10 Rear Gear
 
I'm interested in why the LD340 intake. It just doesn't seem to fit with the rest of the gear.

Good numbers though.
 
Looks like a very nice build, Congrats!

I'm not a fan of chassis dyno's, but i'm guessing your in the mid/upper 400's out of the car.
 
Nice spread on tq/HP peaks. Probably leaving some hp on the table,intake wise.
 
Nice numbers , especially for 92 degrees I would guess 460 + on a engine dyno! I wouldn't worry about the intake you won't feel any difference with a different duel plane might gain a bit of top end with a single.
 
alitle surprised it did not peak at lower rpms.
should be a fun engine!
 
Nice numbers , especially for 92 degrees I would guess 460 + on a engine dyno! I wouldn't worry about the intake you won't feel any difference with a different duel plane might gain a bit of top end with a single.

I thought the Edelbrock: Air Gap, RPM, and LD340 were all pretty close performance-wise in comparision???
 
Below are my engine specifications and Dyno results.

416 engine
Edelbrock RPM Heads with stage 1 port work
11.25 compression
Lunati Voodoo Cam 242/252 Duration@50 533/550 lift
LD340 intake
825 Mighty Demon Carb
TTI Step Headers
Kevko Oil Pan
37 degrees timing
Forged Ross pistons, K1 Crankshaft and Scat I Beam Rods
MSD 6 AL ignition

Dyno results are not corrected.
Temperature: 93 degrees
Humidity: 22 percent
Barometer:29.56
Engine Temperature 165

Peak rwhp: 385@ 6000 rpm
Peak torque: 390 ft-lbs@ 4800 rpm

9 1/2 Dynamic Converter 4000 stall
4.10 Rear Gear

What octane of gas are you using to keep it from detonating/pinging?
 
The LD340, Air Gap and RPM are very close performance wise. If you add a lifter valley pan under the LD340 or RPM, the performance difference is usually under 5 hp on sb mopar stroker engines that I have seen dyno results for. I run 93 octane pump gas. My quench is good: .033. Ross dish pistons as well.
 
The LD340, Air Gap and RPM are very close performance wise. If you add a lifter valley pan under the LD340 or RPM, the performance difference is usually under 5 hp on sb mopar stroker engines that I have seen dyno results for. I run 93 octane pump gas. My quench is good: .037. Ross dish pistons as well.

I have 9.9:1 measured compression with cc'd checked Edelbrock RPM heads. And I have around .035 quench. But I have a smaller cam XS274H-110 236/242@50 solid.

On California pump 91 gas, I have to run 32 degrees total timing on the street or it will ping.
 
I just reviewed my build sheet that I used when I assembled the engine. I am running a 55 cc closed chamber head. The piston is .006 above deck. .039 gasket. Piston dish is 21. Quench is .033. Static compression is 11.27 and dynamic is 8.80. I had the timing set at 34 degrees with my timing light. The tunner said his read 37. I will check my timing in the next day or so with my timing light to verify timing. I am very happy with the dyno numbers considering the air temperature and drivetrain loss. Very loose converter and 4.10 gear. The car is a street/strip car. It's more street than strip. If I can hook up I should run in the 11s.
I am debating on swithcing to a 3.73 rear gear.
 
I just reviewed my build sheet that I used when I assembled the engine. I am running a 55 cc closed chamber head. The piston is .006 above deck. .039 gasket. Piston dish is 21. Static compression is 11.27 and dynamic is 8.80. I had the timing set at 34 degrees with my timing light. The tunner said his read 37. I will check my timing in the next day or so with my timing light to verify timing. I am very happy with the dyno numbers considering the air temperature and drivetrain loss. Very loose converter and 4.10 gear. The car is a street/strip car. It's more street than strip. If I can hook up I should run in the 11s.
I am debating on swithcing to a 3.73 rear gear.

Did you mill the edelbrock heads a ton?

My Edelbrock RPM closed chamber "63 cc head" measureed with a graduated cylinder and clear plate at 65cc. Others have got the same number.

Otherwise sounds close my motor. I run the Scat 4" crank rotating assembly with 20.5 cc dished ICON forged pistons and Fel pro 1008 gasket with .039 gasket also. I can't remember exactly what my piston is above deck. I think just barely like .002. But have to look at notes.
 
Heads were milled .060, which is the maximum Edelbrock recommends. I used the same Felpro 1008 gasket. Just verified the timing with my light: 34 degrees total and 18 initial.
 
Heads were milled .060, which is the maximum Edelbrock recommends. I used the same Felpro 1008 gasket. Just verified the timing with my light: 34 degrees total and 18 initial.

Ok thanks for clarifying, it's the .060" of milling that took 10 cc's out of the heads.
 
Well this doesn't give me much hope for my 408. breaking 400hp to the rear was my goals. We have very similar setups, besides the compression that Im slightly lower on. Im going to be sad!
 
71swing, you may get 400 to the rear. Pick a good day for testing (air temp and barometer) and find a good dyno facility. The two guys who tuned my 68 Barracuda were awesome.
 
Well this doesn't give me much hope for my 408. breaking 400hp to the rear was my goals. We have very similar setups, besides the compression that Im slightly lower on. Im going to be sad!

Why worry about a number.

Watch pass time and see all the inflated HP number and rotten time slips. Heck there are a few on this board that have so called big HP and slow slips.


Worry about how the car runs. Certain items make a huge difference in performance. Can't tell you how many cars I literally killed over the years that had me outpowered by 100+ hp at approximately the same weight. :)


AutoX I thought you had a solid cam in your car, one in the XS line
 
I agree with crackedback. The time slip is what counts most. The Dyno is nothing more than a tool to evaluate part changes and air/fuel ratios. The first 340 I built with my dad in 1983 put out 265 rwhp and ran high 12s low 13s at 105 mph in the quarter. A good torque converter and rear gear was worth much more than the Dyno numbers indicated. In addition, a good suspension that puts the hp to good use does not show up on the Dyno.
 
Interesting 93 with 8.8 dcr. I will be running same but trying 91 octane as a member on here has same and runs that octane. Hopefully the closed chambered heads help!
 
Well this doesn't give me much hope for my 408. breaking 400hp to the rear was my goals. We have very similar setups, besides the compression that Im slightly lower on. Im going to be sad!

I wouldn't worry about it. I've never had mine on a dyno, but I have less compression, smaller carb, and it runs 6.80's in the 1/8. The online calculators say I'm in the 430-440 RWHP range.

The dyno is a nice tuning tool, but you can't race a dyno.
 
Why worry about a number.

Watch pass time and see all the inflated HP number and rotten time slips. Heck there are a few on this board that have so called big HP and slow slips.


Worry about how the car runs. Certain items make a huge difference in performance. Can't tell you how many cars I literally killed over the years that had me outpowered by 100+ hp at approximately the same weight. :)

Listen to him
 
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