Uneducated, would YOU buy?

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KramerSwinger70

KramerSwinger70

70 Dart Swinger360
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
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Rohnert Park, CA
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/4129139645.html

spotted this ad for a 8 3/4. needing 1 for my 70 dart. this rear is being sold from a guy who owns a resto shop. Called him up, says the thing needs to be gone through to run. I already know I gotta modify it to work in my dart, since this is a Bbody

is he asking a fair price? the housing it self looks great and 11" drums sounds like good stuff to me! id have to replace the axles, obviously, and bearings? probably the center section, he said he thinks something isn't engaging in there?
 
If you get the right B-Body rear, I believe they fit with just a perch change. The overall width is very close. If it truly needs a center section/axles then it's a tad too much in my opinion. But they certainly don't grow on trees anymore.
 
ive been looking for 4 years and frankly im getting desperate. its the last mechanical bit I need to collect, already got an engine/trans for a smoking deal a few years back, need building as well
 
Well, I paid 100 bucks for my B body rear a couple of years ago. I think he might be high on the price, just my opinion.

With that said, why do you need to change the axles? If they are in good shape you can run them. The center section sounds like it needs to be gone through as well. You "should" move the perches in 1/2 inch on each side, although a lot of guys will tell you to pull your springs out and bolt it in. (I wonder why Ma Mopar didn't do it that way)

Anyway I think the price is too high.
 
You could spend around $1000 just getting the center section done if you don't know how to do it yourself. That is way too high in my books.
 
Gear ration and whether it's a SG or not would be a big plus when determining what it's worth. If it's a 4.56 SG it's well worth the bucks. If it's 3.23 open it's worth less than half of what he's asking. Like Bruce, I paid a hundred for mine. It was an open 741 with 3.55 gears.
 
Leadfoot said:
Gear ration and whether it's a SG or not would be a big plus when determining what it's worth.
Click to expand...

Yup, I should have mentioned that.

If it's not far from you it isn't going to hurt to look at it. Try spinning the yoke, see if both wheels spin the same direction. IF they do then I would want to look inside to be absolutely sure it's a sure grip and not a Lincoln Locker.

Even then I would offer much less.
 
Bad Sport said:
Yup, I should have mentioned that.

If it's not far from you it isn't going to hurt to look at it. Try spinning the yoke, see if both wheels spin the same direction. IF they do then I would want to look inside to be absolutely sure it's a sure grip and not a Lincoln Locker.

Even then I would offer much less.
Click to expand...
x2. But from the way the seller words it, it pretty much says "its not a sure-grip"


"I have no idea what gear ratio it is as it should be disassembled and completely gone thru anyway and you can put any gear ratio and sure grip unit you desire."
 
Hmmm. A guy that owns a resto shop in bay area named Steve. Wonder if that's redfastback here on FABO.

I'd look for a 65-67 B-body rear or an A-body rear.

The rear on CL is worth more to a guy with a 68-70 B-body.
 
That B-body rear is a little to wide for a Dart.
It works well in a Duster or Dart Sport, helps fill the wheel wells up.
There is some good deals on B & E body housings out there.
You can send the housing to Moser Axles & have it cut down to A-body spec for a $150.00.
they do some nice work.
 
mikedevore said:
That B-body rear is a little to wide for a Dart.
It works well in a Duster or Dart Sport, helps fill the wheel wells up.
There is some good deals on B & E body housings out there.
You can send the housing to Moser Axles & have it cut down to A-body spec for a $150.00.
they do some nice work.
Click to expand...
yeah, but for that, you could find one of the truck rear ends on the cheap and narrow it. Also, you can shorten the truck axle shafts down like the C-body units. I think OP is just trying to find a bolt in and go unit that doesn't need to be shortened or fongooled with in general.
 
But from the way the seller words it, it pretty much says "its not a sure-grip"
Click to expand...

It's vague to the point that it says you could "put any gears and SG unit you desire". So you could ad gears that are different than the ones it has or a SG that is different than the one it has. If it has one. Maybe. It could be read either way. Of course we shouldn't need to be told that anyways.
 
PanGasket said:
yeah, but for that, you could find one of the truck rear ends on the cheap and narrow it. Also, you can shorten the truck axle shafts down like the C-body units. I think OP is just trying to find a bolt in and go unit that doesn't need to be shortened or fongooled with in general.
Click to expand...


ding ding ding! that's pretty muchg my goal. just want an 8 3/4, could care less on the ratio right now, just want to actuall have a rear so that when I come home im ready to just tear into what I already have accumulated. Im shipping out to Okinawa in Dec so I wanna get what I can while im stil in the same time zone! Would seem the consensus is a no, wait for another rear. Can do, though I really just wanna get a rear and throw it under the car.
 
I spent $100 for a b body housing and axles. Another $50 for a 741 chunk, open, with 3.23 gears. $150 for complete brakes, backing plates and shock plates. $350 for clutch sure grip. Yet to have perches and bearings and put together.
 
Way too much money IMO. Would even be real pricey if it were a direct bolt in A-body rear since he says it needs completely gone through. You could spend close to a grand on just parts if everything needs rebuilt/replaced
 
I had my drum to drum a body 8 3/4 3.55 sure grip for sale recently at a good price. Nobody bit so I said screw it. You're not desperate enough is my guess.
 
desperation doesn't mean I have enough cash to spend shipping a rear across the country...Im 9 months into my enlistment in the Marine Corps, just paid off my car that I now am selling cuz im going over seas. prior to enlistment I washed cars at a Toyota dealership for 1.5 years n before that was 3.5 scooping ice cream at Baskin Robbins. money has always been the deciding factor on what gets done on my car, and a lack of it is what has allowed close to nothing being done. I collect what I can, and that isn't much
 
I bought a complete 8 3/4 a bodies rear brake to brake wit 391 sure grip for 550 just to give you a comparsion.
 
KramerSwinger70 said:
desperation doesn't mean I have enough cash to spend shipping a rear across the country...Im 9 months into my enlistment in the Marine Corps, just paid off my car that I now am selling cuz im going over seas. prior to enlistment I washed cars at a Toyota dealership for 1.5 years n before that was 3.5 scooping ice cream at Baskin Robbins. money has always been the deciding factor on what gets done on my car, and a lack of it is what has allowed close to nothing being done. I collect what I can, and that isn't much
Click to expand...
You have two options here: wait it out for an 8 3/4
Or: swap in the lesser Ford 8.8 or an 8 1/4

Not like those other two are that bad. The 8 1/4 will probably be easy to find and a direct bolt in from an A-body to an A-body. The F/M/J rear axle is about 3" wider it seems and requires the spring perches relocated
 
tekslk said:
I bought a complete 8 3/4 a bodies rear brake to brake wit 391 sure grip for 550 just to give you a comparsion.
Click to expand...

And that's a steal.. Around these parts it would be at least double that. I've seen them as high as 15 hundred.
 
What exactly is the disadvantage to an 8 1/4 over 8 3/4? weakness isn't a concern, my car wont be pushing crazy power. Contemplating a street lynx down the road, would it still work? (the site only lists ford 9", 8 3/4 and dana if I remember correctly)
 
KramerSwinger70 said:
What exactly is the disadvantage to an 8 1/4 over 8 3/4? weakness isn't a concern, my car wont be pushing crazy power. Contemplating a street lynx down the road, would it still work? (the site only lists ford 9", 8 3/4 and dana if I remember correctly)
Click to expand...
That's it essentially, just have to find one out of an A-body and that isn't very difficult if you place a want ad on here or maybe even a local member to you in Cali will tell you where to find one. That and it will have a different bolt pattern, 5 x4.5" which is awesome to me and many others as it opens up your choice of rims. and no more having two different sets of lug nuts, but that's if you swap the front to the bigger bolt pattern as well. Also, if you swap the front to BBP stuff you get bigger ball joints. Disc brakes too if you already don't have em.
 
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