Harbor freight spray gun?
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I hope so, I bought one when my local store opened. I paid 5 bucks for mine. It certainly should be worth that, lol.
I have three other guns, but I wanted to try that one. I have read on here, a couple of people used them and said they were OK.
I have three other guns, but I wanted to try that one. I have read on here, a couple of people used them and said they were OK.
I wouldn't paint a show car with one but if it sprays it's worth 10 bucks.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
I have one I use with enamel and it does a great job. I do not do show cars though.
I painted the front clip of my Duster with one, all the primer and the topcoat. It takes a little practice to get the settings figured out, but once it's set up its not a bad gun at all. Biggest thing is that it doesn't hold all that much paint. If you're painting a fender or hood it's great, but to do a whole car you'd need to have a few pots mixed up and ready to go or buy a bigger hopper. But heck, I only paid $10 for mine. Not saying it's nicer than some of the $500+ guns out there, but it gets the job done. I mean, if I was charging $10k for a paint job I wouldn't be using it, but if you're painting your own stuff I don't see why not. And I've shot cars with some of the nicer, professional grade Devilbiss guns. I'll probably buy a couple more when I get back to painting the rest of my car so I can have a few extras set up.
greymouser7
Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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I have used one, with epoxy primer. you can see the results on FMJ bodies under http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/cla...-a-MOPAR-the-quot-BlackBird-quot-build/page25 post # 613
and post 527 on page http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/cla...-a-MOPAR-the-quot-BlackBird-quot-build/page22
You need to register to see pictures. This is the sister build to my Aspen, Heavy Metal Hell Raiser. That gun that was 5 bucks (i bought it for 10 bucks) was in the store last week at 47 dollars and they have a much better one at 57 dollars now.
it worked great with a filter, oil less compressor, and you need to prevent moisture in the line
post 515 is more pictures:
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/cla...-a-MOPAR-the-quot-BlackBird-quot-build/page21
and post 527 on page http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/cla...-a-MOPAR-the-quot-BlackBird-quot-build/page22
You need to register to see pictures. This is the sister build to my Aspen, Heavy Metal Hell Raiser. That gun that was 5 bucks (i bought it for 10 bucks) was in the store last week at 47 dollars and they have a much better one at 57 dollars now.
it worked great with a filter, oil less compressor, and you need to prevent moisture in the line
post 515 is more pictures:
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/cla...-a-MOPAR-the-quot-BlackBird-quot-build/page21
Back in Time
Well-Known Member
So far I've used mine to shoot the epoxy primer on my Dart.It worked flawlessly for that and it's been 20 years since I shot anything at all.
OUTLAW
Master of All Mopars
I have used them alot they are really a good gun I use them for everything from primer to clear coat, they shoot large flake well too . Best part is that at that price you can use them then toss them away and get a new one. I can't do that with my Bink Sata or Devliss
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
That is a good fact use it and throw it out no need to clean it.
Frankie
Member #9641
A fellow by the name of John Arbuckle once coined a phrase that went like this: "You get what you pay for".
I've found that to be exquisitely true advice.
I've found that to be exquisitely true advice.
Woods74
Broke Senior
Yup, it's a well documented winner. Did my epoxy primer with it; real nice. Plan on using it for everything.
You obviously haven't used this spray gun.
I have, and also ones that cost about 50x as much. Sure, its not a spray gun you're going to use for the rest of your professional painting career, but for most of us working on our own cars its more than sufficient. Properly set up it can lay down a professional coat of paint. No, I wouldn't expect it to hold up for the next 20 years, but at $10 you can buy three or four, have them set up for all your various stages of paint, and throw them away when you're done. With a little practice no one will be able to tell you used a $10 gun instead of a $500 one.
Only thing it really needs is a good water separator, and for doing a whole car you'll have to refill the pot a few times because its only quart sized. Or buy a bigger one, or just buy a couple of guns and have them ready to go. For the price of the gun its cheaper just to buy a few than it is to buy extra pot's.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
There is no reason you can't shoot a show winning top coat with it.
Ask me how I know.
I've used everything from Sata, Iwata, DeVillbiss, Porter Cable and cheap guns from Harbor Freight.
Any HVLP gun to be used on a complete paint job will generally have a 20.5oz. capacity, so that, plus whatever the gun holds, usually renders a reasonable 20oz. from your mixing cup.
If you shoot a complete, have someone help you mix, or just mix the batch as you go. I don't like mixing the entire batch at once, with the exception of basecoat, because at the end of the run, the clearcoat can start spraying heavy. I mix my clear as I go and if I'm on a round when I'm trying to make a complete side or hood, I will stop at my door jamb, regardless of my paint in the gun and have the mixing cup full of clear without the catalyst in it yet, so I can just pour in catalyst, stir and then strain it into the gun, so it will blend, between stopping and going again. I stop for about 1.5 minutes or less before going back into the booth this way. Not enough time for the clear to lock up and cause dry spots, but enough time to mix.
Always plot how you're going to shoot. Usually the roof will take one cup for a coat (actually less, but don't continue, because you want to tac lower panels) and then you get about three panels per cup, except for a hood, so maybe do one fender and a hood, etc.
20oz. is easy to formulate in just about every mixing ratio. Most of the time, anymore, I don't even use the mix ratios on the cup and just cut the math up by the Oz. marker on the single column. 4:1= 16oz:4oz, etc.
Show winning paint jobs are not left by the spray pattern, unless you are talking about shooting a car in single stage acrylic enamel with lead based metallics, for crap like the Carlisle judge shows, where you're going for that 100% survivor look.
Most people in this day in age are after paint jobs that have less surface changes than the glass on the car, which requires about 40 hours worth of multiple pass color/ wet sanding on the car, by hand, with a combination of soft blocks and more rigid foam blocks, off of 3 coats of clear, cut just like body work, because that's essentially what it is. You can use a D/A sander with some trizact or other type of topcoat sanding system, but watch it, because not all are used wet. Trizact is, but the Mirka system is not. Went through half a pack before I discovered that. And it also vibrates the panel, so while it will look smoother than the spray pattern/ orange peel, it will never be as smooth as hand sanding, when you gunsight the panels.
I know for a fact that you can paint a car outside with a harbor freight gun and win shows. If you do it outside, you need a good day, a clean ground (wet is best) and no trees/ dirt/ etc., as well as a fast curing catalyst for your clearcoat.
If you get any boogers in the base that won't tac cloth out between coats (always tac fenders/ quarters after shooting a roof and tac everything between basecoats), just stop, let it sit for fifteen minutes and come back with som 800 grit paper, cut it smooth and spot/ blend your color right there.
Let the whole thing flash a half an hour tac everything and go for it with clear.
There is no reason to spend tons of money on a nice gun, unless you are doing something crazy, like sunbursts or graphics work on a touch up gun for good pattern.
And honestly, the better fades are done by using a clear basecoat and mixing your color into that, then shooting it in light coats, so you are not relying on the atomization of the gun to get a fade.
Don't throw it away. That is really wasteful. If you are careful, you only need about 6-8oz of thinner to clean a gun, spotless. Even less if you've got a gun washer or clean parts washer that you use for spray equipment. The only time you might consider retiring the gun is if you've shot a lot of acid etch primer through it. Then just dedicate that gun to acid etch primer.
I've had an HF gun in my posession for my primer and I've been using it for 15 years. Works just like it did when I bought it.
Ask me how I know.
I've used everything from Sata, Iwata, DeVillbiss, Porter Cable and cheap guns from Harbor Freight.
Any HVLP gun to be used on a complete paint job will generally have a 20.5oz. capacity, so that, plus whatever the gun holds, usually renders a reasonable 20oz. from your mixing cup.
If you shoot a complete, have someone help you mix, or just mix the batch as you go. I don't like mixing the entire batch at once, with the exception of basecoat, because at the end of the run, the clearcoat can start spraying heavy. I mix my clear as I go and if I'm on a round when I'm trying to make a complete side or hood, I will stop at my door jamb, regardless of my paint in the gun and have the mixing cup full of clear without the catalyst in it yet, so I can just pour in catalyst, stir and then strain it into the gun, so it will blend, between stopping and going again. I stop for about 1.5 minutes or less before going back into the booth this way. Not enough time for the clear to lock up and cause dry spots, but enough time to mix.
Always plot how you're going to shoot. Usually the roof will take one cup for a coat (actually less, but don't continue, because you want to tac lower panels) and then you get about three panels per cup, except for a hood, so maybe do one fender and a hood, etc.
20oz. is easy to formulate in just about every mixing ratio. Most of the time, anymore, I don't even use the mix ratios on the cup and just cut the math up by the Oz. marker on the single column. 4:1= 16oz:4oz, etc.
Show winning paint jobs are not left by the spray pattern, unless you are talking about shooting a car in single stage acrylic enamel with lead based metallics, for crap like the Carlisle judge shows, where you're going for that 100% survivor look.
Most people in this day in age are after paint jobs that have less surface changes than the glass on the car, which requires about 40 hours worth of multiple pass color/ wet sanding on the car, by hand, with a combination of soft blocks and more rigid foam blocks, off of 3 coats of clear, cut just like body work, because that's essentially what it is. You can use a D/A sander with some trizact or other type of topcoat sanding system, but watch it, because not all are used wet. Trizact is, but the Mirka system is not. Went through half a pack before I discovered that. And it also vibrates the panel, so while it will look smoother than the spray pattern/ orange peel, it will never be as smooth as hand sanding, when you gunsight the panels.
I know for a fact that you can paint a car outside with a harbor freight gun and win shows. If you do it outside, you need a good day, a clean ground (wet is best) and no trees/ dirt/ etc., as well as a fast curing catalyst for your clearcoat.
If you get any boogers in the base that won't tac cloth out between coats (always tac fenders/ quarters after shooting a roof and tac everything between basecoats), just stop, let it sit for fifteen minutes and come back with som 800 grit paper, cut it smooth and spot/ blend your color right there.
Let the whole thing flash a half an hour tac everything and go for it with clear.
There is no reason to spend tons of money on a nice gun, unless you are doing something crazy, like sunbursts or graphics work on a touch up gun for good pattern.
And honestly, the better fades are done by using a clear basecoat and mixing your color into that, then shooting it in light coats, so you are not relying on the atomization of the gun to get a fade.
Don't throw it away. That is really wasteful. If you are careful, you only need about 6-8oz of thinner to clean a gun, spotless. Even less if you've got a gun washer or clean parts washer that you use for spray equipment. The only time you might consider retiring the gun is if you've shot a lot of acid etch primer through it. Then just dedicate that gun to acid etch primer.
I've had an HF gun in my posession for my primer and I've been using it for 15 years. Works just like it did when I bought it.
I've shot etch primer, 2K primer and black urethane paint out of mine. I'm not much of a painter, but I was able to figure it out pretty quickly. I'm doing the prep work on my car (with help from my cousin who is a great painter) and will enlist the help of friends when it's time to spray the color!
For the price, it's a decent gun
For the price, it's a decent gun
greymouser7
Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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:wack:
Frankie that is a general platitude that works good, MOST OF THE TIME.
Some of us don't have the funds to build a car AND buy a THOUSAND dollar paint gun. It might be in your budget, but the underlying question that you miss is this a device worth cutting corners with?
When asked, it goes without saying that this is not the best tool. The question is, is it good enough?
The OP isn't asking about a middle of the road product, they're asking about a bottom dollar product. You get what you pay for goes WITHOUT saying.
There should be a charge for passing that advice on....
(It's good advice, but it's free. If it's good, it shouldn't be free....) - You get what you pay for... :banghead:
I have used a few of them. First car I painted I used it for primer, sealer, base and the clear. I will say, I had to do a lot of sanding and buffing of the clear to get it flat. I tried it again on another car, adjusted my pattern etc... and still had to do a lot of final sanding nd buffing. I got a second, more expensive gun from them, with a smaller tip and it did a little better. after spending weeks wet sanding and buffing clear on 3rd car i painted, I bought a good DeVilvlis gun just for clear and another just for base. I use the HF guns for sealers and jambs. I currently repaint 1 car a year,as a hobby. They are good if you don't mind orange peel in final finish, or use them for primer and small jobs.
racerkilla
Well-Known Member
I use that gun to do engine bays and primer... I used the next step up habor freight(I think 50-75 don't remember to do entire car)
Here is the results of the small gun no wet sanding
Duster engine bay
Duster top of fenders, cowl and roof
The better HF gun..Painted in an open front car port in October no less
Base paint
Clear no wet sand
Finished
Here is the results of the small gun no wet sanding
Duster engine bay
Duster top of fenders, cowl and roof
The better HF gun..Painted in an open front car port in October no less
Base paint
Clear no wet sand
Finished
That VVVV is encouraging to me. I'm going to try the one I bought.
Awesome! Thanks guys!! I'm sure it's no where near the best that money can buy but on the other hand I've never painted anything (other than with rattle can) so I don't expect a show finish anyway. Just lookin for a nice 10' paint job (if it turns out better, good!!) and use it to learn to paint. My car will look good (I hope) but it'll be a driver, yea I'll take it to cruise ins and the Nats and stuff but I'm gonna drive it.
After all my rambling I guess I'lol buy it and give it a wing!!
After all my rambling I guess I'lol buy it and give it a wing!!
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Just remember HVLP stands for high volume low pressure. It wont need alot of pressure to spray and if the pressure is too high you will get orange peel. I use mine with single stage enamel and it lays like glass no sanding needed.
I painted 2 cars with them and got orange peel on both. Are you saying it could be the gun? They both looked good until they started to dry and a day or two later it was quite obvious. I was assuming the prep was not done well enough.
Frankie
Member #9641
I didn't say anything about any of that. All I said was, very simply, the old adage, "You get what you pay for" is most often, true. That's not a put down to anyone here, or anything. It's merely comment based on observation.
racerkilla
Well-Known Member
I ended up with orange peel in the camaro pictured above. It wasn't bad and most people would of said it looked great. But if you can prime/paint a car what is one more one step with wetsanding. Isn't to hard.
Took 1500 followed by 2000 sand paper and then buffed it out with 2 different style pads and compounds. Smooth as glass now and still need to do the last step with wax and a dual action style buffer.
I have found out it seems like single stage enamel and urethane tend to lay much smoother when its all said then done compare to a base/clear set up.
Took 1500 followed by 2000 sand paper and then buffed it out with 2 different style pads and compounds. Smooth as glass now and still need to do the last step with wax and a dual action style buffer.
I have found out it seems like single stage enamel and urethane tend to lay much smoother when its all said then done compare to a base/clear set up.
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