Good lord... My choice: A simple Performer 318-360. Fewest headaches, easy installation. You are not drag racing,no need for over doing it? (A stock cast iron AFB intake, would be next. You know how to deal with that,J.M.O.)
Time to add some inexpensive HP
- Thread starter Trevor B
- Start date
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Your initial plan is still good. The performer will work, as well as the Edelbrock. Once into the cam, now you need to change valve springs to get the most out of it. Now you are changing springs either with the motor together or you pull the heads. If you pull the heads, do you mill them and do a valve job while they are apart? You see where I'm going? The next thing you are rebuilding the engine. I'd tell you to replace the timing chain as that is the weak link in any engine. You should be happy with the improvement just changing the carb and intake. Not that the guys are wrong, they are right, it's just how big a project are you up for now.
Trevor B
Well-Known Member
Going with the initial plan. Got parts on the way and it's going to suck waiting for the chance to start work.
Now I've got to get in there and give the engine a bit of a cleaning...
Is there a preferred gasket material/thickness for intakes?
Now I've got to get in there and give the engine a bit of a cleaning...
Is there a preferred gasket material/thickness for intakes?
YoungBlood
Jolt the Squares
My Performer intake & Eddy 600 combo is perfect for my driver car.
Two things:
1) There will be a pin sticking up at the rear intake valley mating surface (in the block) that will need to be pulled out with pliers. The performer intake doesn't have the little hole for the pin to slide into that the stock intakes have.
2) Make your intake gasket out of the grey permatex from the parts store. A replacement intake gasket (fel-pro, etc) doesn't seal well with the performer. Run the permatex in a SMALL bead (think "like drawing with cake icing") around the ports and intake bolt holes with the intake upside down. Then lay a bead of permatex across the front and back of the block (at the valley) about as thick as your pinky. Gently drop the intake straight down on top and make sure there is enough permatex so that there aren't any leaks when the intake and block meet for the first time.
Also, scrape the old intake surface clean with a razor blade, and wipe all mating surfaces with acetone.
I just use Fel-Pro print-o-seal gaskets. Don't use the steel shim gaskets on aluminum intakes. Put some sealant on intake bolt threads so oil does not weep through the threads. Also RTV in the corners where the heads mate with the block.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Are you nuts? Did you know that there is NO silicone or polyurethane based sealants that are impervious to gasoline? What this means is the fuel turns any and all conventional sealants into mush, stringy, slimy mush. This method will leak at best and get sucked in and get between your valves and seats. Not to mention the bead will get squished and block off a large percentage of the port.
Just use a FelPro 1213 and be done with it. J.Rob
True, RTV will dissolve in gasoline.
As mentioned above. Use felpro blue gaskets for head to intake surfaces. Use permatex RTV on the front and rear of the intake, don't use the cork gaskets on the front and rear of the intake if you are going with an aluminum intake. Don't forget to pull the stock pins out of the block front and rear. Also put a bead of RTV around the water ports on the heads before you put the gaskets on. This is what the Edelbrock instruction say to do when using their intakes.
I have used Mr. Gasket Ultra seals a lot. Excellent stuff.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
I'll let you guys in on something very few "Engine" guys seem to know. Most engine guys seem to think lining both sides of a paper intake gasket with their fave silicone in a tube or even "The Right Stuff" will save them from an intake gasket failure. It won't. Gasoline will break down and kill almost anything.
There is a sealer made by Permatex called MotoSeal 1. It is grey in colour and extremely thin viscosity/runny. It is NOT a silicone in any way shape or form. It is expensive and it was designed for two/four stroke engine case halves to be joined. It is perfect for applying as insurance on intake gaskets and the backs of rear mains. I have used it on my kids ATV engines, chainsaws, and lawnmowers. This stuff works but takes a little practice to master. I do not understand to this day why Permatex/Loctite Corp doesn't make this obvious. It took me years of seeing stringy, melted, globs of used to be silicone on engines to understand this. It took me a few more years to really read and study various chemical/sealant manufacturers literature to find MotoSeal 1. I would tube this stuff in a syringe type applicator instead of a stupid metal old timey toothpate tube and market as a gasket glue/sealant for ALL engines. Whoops I've said enough. J.Rob
There is a sealer made by Permatex called MotoSeal 1. It is grey in colour and extremely thin viscosity/runny. It is NOT a silicone in any way shape or form. It is expensive and it was designed for two/four stroke engine case halves to be joined. It is perfect for applying as insurance on intake gaskets and the backs of rear mains. I have used it on my kids ATV engines, chainsaws, and lawnmowers. This stuff works but takes a little practice to master. I do not understand to this day why Permatex/Loctite Corp doesn't make this obvious. It took me years of seeing stringy, melted, globs of used to be silicone on engines to understand this. It took me a few more years to really read and study various chemical/sealant manufacturers literature to find MotoSeal 1. I would tube this stuff in a syringe type applicator instead of a stupid metal old timey toothpate tube and market as a gasket glue/sealant for ALL engines. Whoops I've said enough. J.Rob
I guess my "engine" guy knows his stuff because you can see some of it seeping out from under the front of my intake!
Trevor B
Well-Known Member
Wow - my engine looks just like that! Except not as big, a little dirtier, has all older parts on it, and is in my car. But other than that... (that thing looks sweet!)
Okay. I've got my intake manifold (used), a nice new 4 bbl carb, all the requisite gaskets and sealers and what not and am ready to install this weekend.
Question: I did my best to clean the outside of the manifold and surfaces that will be sealed with the gaskets. But do I need to clean out the inside of the ports? If so, what's the best way? Bottle brush? Super small wire brush?
Thanks!
Okay. I've got my intake manifold (used), a nice new 4 bbl carb, all the requisite gaskets and sealers and what not and am ready to install this weekend.
Question: I did my best to clean the outside of the manifold and surfaces that will be sealed with the gaskets. But do I need to clean out the inside of the ports? If so, what's the best way? Bottle brush? Super small wire brush?
Thanks!
I just would use a good degreaser, & a pressurized water stream (water hose, warm water would help) Let air dry.
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