Lift 440 fully dressed +trans with this?

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I fabricated a rail from four 3" x13" angle iron and then welded chains on each corner and a a number of holes down the rail. Bolted the chains to 4 corner intake bolts with grade 8. Worked fine. Had the big haussy neighbor kid there for heavy liftin.



Took a solid 2 hours. The motor mounts have locating pins are sandwitched on angled frame perches. Had to "snap" the motor into the frame cradle by compressing the motor mount rubber in various ways.
 

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Installation photos.
 

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we did the 383/727 in my son's dart with a load leveler. Really had to angle the engine/trans to get it into the car. I've seen lots of people install engines with those plates, but i can't get beyond the fact your holding up a very heavy (and probably expensive) engine with 4 studs going into an aluminum manifold with 5/16 threads. Cast aluminum isn't the toughest material and a used manifold is bound to have a damaged thread or two. Imagine the studs pulling out and dropping your expensive engine and crushing the radiator support......... I just sleep better using bolts into the ends of the heads.....

this!!!^^^
 
Don't want to ask a stupid question (but it's never stopped me before).

Does that Jensen have a removable cradle/k-frame where you can install
the engine from the bottom by simply dropping the body over it?

On any other kind of Mopar, after the first time you use this method you
will have a big welt in the center of your forehead from smacking yourself
and wondering why you never did it this way before.

It's only about twenty times simpler and easier to do it this way. You don't
even have to remove the hood! On yours, it would depend on if the width of the
engine would preclude it making it past the inner fenderwells.
 
No, the frame is a combination of 4" schedule 80 steel pipe and a ridiculously hefty 4x8" box cross-member, all welded together and to the body like a unibody type.

Look at post 27, maybe hit ctrl + and enlargen your layout a bit, its a friggn beast of a frame, so narrow that notches are cut so the trans pan fits into it.

It has to be as solid as a 2wd f150 frame in the front half.
 
Well it is already done. If ya'll look at the pics I posted, you will see that it went in, albeit with a bit of massaging. No scratches or issues with the various painted parts b/c I used towels between the 2x4 pry bar and the related contact points. Seems that recent posting is like it has not been installed yet.

Also big thanks to Lee Robinson's son for suggesting that I do a bit of engine shifting with pry bars on the alignment dowels before trying to resort to more drastic measures! That worked properly after shifting the engine mounts about 1/4" in their saddles.
 
I am getting one of those harbor freight adjusters and modifying it to suit me. Probably the big mfer. That will suit me for ever. This was just to get this motor in with me in the mood to get 'er done.
 
Oh, I didnt put a (mostly) finished pic in:
 

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