14.45 with 12 sec combo... HELP

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Anyways re curve the distributor! You will be amazed at the difference! Well worth the time, or money if having it done.
 
The Hughes 1110 single spring works fine with the voodoo 268. lunati told me if it has around 120psi seat and close to 300 psi open it should work regardless of it being dual or single springs.

i have a cyl. heads with dual spring work, but was so hard... then the engine maker took away the inner spring and let only de outer spring... they work fine with the comp cams 274 ... and now With the Crower 267

again.. sorry for my english
 
Okay, then.
But they make a tool to change those springs while they are still installed.But if you have to machine the seats I see where you are at.
FYI. My FelPro 100x head gaskets are on their third life. And my intakes are on their second life.
 
Did you verify you have full throttle? I know of plenty of people who didn't run as well as they thought the first time. Go a bunch more, preferably somewhere that has incremental timing and speed.
 
Did you verify you have full throttle? I know of plenty of people who didn't run as well as they thought the first time. Go a bunch more, preferably somewhere that has incremental timing and speed.

yeah.. full throttle... but my car moves side by side on the track... i need 28s tires... a new intake... a new camshaft maybe... step by step

andddddd i need to verify the limiter.. maybe was in function 150 feet before the final line
 
i need 28s tires... a new intake... a new camshaft maybe.

BS... listen to people smarter than you about what to do. Your engineers pill doesn't change what an MSD box does 99-100% of the time.

You can get that car to move well without spending any money. It's slow now because of factors that YOU control and can manipulate. It doesn't have to be expensive.

The timing is miles off, simple fix, very low $, could be 1/2 second right there.

Car sways back and forth, likely low air pressure. Easy fix.
 
Does your friend with the same setup have the same car same year ? i.e. the same weight ?
 
BS... listen to people smarter than you about what to do. Your engineers pill doesn't change what an MSD box does 99-100% of the time.

You can get that car to move well without spending any money. It's slow now because of factors that YOU control and can manipulate. It doesn't have to be expensive.

The timing is miles off, simple fix, very low $, could be 1/2 second right there.

Car sways back and forth, likely low air pressure. Easy fix.

you are right ...
I'm listening too. thanks for your answers

I think the movement of my car was poor traction. my car looked like a fish swimming
 
Does your friend with the same setup have the same car same year ? i.e. the same weight ?

almost the same... have 3500 rpm converter in 727, dferent intake, and small valves on no ported heads... 28 tires

model is duster 75, mine is 76

I am aware that not run exactly the same. but 14s ???
 
Your combo is real soft and mixed up so if you don't want to start changing everything here is what I would do.
1. put a degree tape on your balancer and power time the engine at aprox. 3500 rpm set it to 38 degrees as a starting point .
2. seeing as you are lacking in the torque dept. and have little to no increased stall speed in your converter you will want to try and launch the car from the lowest rpm you can without the car bogging .
3. remove the rpm limiter chip all together as you could floor that combo in neutral and the valves would float before you could do any damage. Take it out ( No RPM Limiter Not Needed )
4. Once you get this fire breather of the start line don't be in a panic to shift it stretch it out in the gears I'd shift it at 6500 RPM and if it feels like it's still pulling maybe it will like 6800 RPM these engines like to rev up don't be shy put your foot in it and drive it like you stole it.
5. check the tire pressure before you start fronts 35-40 PSI rears slick ? if so 10 - 14 PSI
6 The intake is hurting you and this would likely preform better with a stock steel 340 daul plane or best would be an old LD340 or a LD4B Edelbrock
7. Good luck this should at least put this turd combo into the 13 second range
 
I would bet there 0 track prep at a track that only gives et? I gained over half a second on a track that had actual dragstrip track prep. really that combination in a full interior car is not a 12 second car anyways. You have unrealistic expectations in my opinion. I think you have 13 second car no problem or a little problem but you'll get there. my first time out with a 410 stroker completely built only yielded me 12-7. I've been better since but 12-7 was my expectation for the first time out. Mind you my car is completely gutted no bumpers no hood completely no inner doorframe no heater no glove box door no ashtray no dash pad.
10 gallon plastic fuel cell , battery in the back. I'm hoping that you actually seen friends car do this 12 second quarter mile and it's not something he's just telling you, I heard a lot of fish stores before?
My first time with the old motor was a 15.4 and i was happy and most importantly had fun!
 
Did you check your timing marks for top dead center? Always check for top dead center. If the outer ring of your dampener is moving your actual timing will be less than what you set it for. And as they get older they are more likely to move. 5 degrees of movement wont be obvious by looking at it. This problem can be almost impossible to find without checking for it. Back in the day guys would just keep advancing the timing until the MPH dropped off,then check timing and tell friends "my car likes 44 degrees timing." Cause the dampener had moved.
 
Did you say your initial timing is 5? I wouldn't change any parts until I had it tuned right. I 22 initial timing and 36 total.
 
i think i need tires 28s too...

because i cross the finish line on te RPM limiter on 5500 (5500 is the red line of my cam)


What tires are on it now? If they are shorter than that you will have an even slower Et. I went from 26x10.50's to 28x12.50's and you'd be surprised how much it affects your car.

What does redline of the cam mean? Redline of the engine maybe, but not cam. Unless you had it on a dyno? Have you? Do you even know where it makes power or are you just going by the goofy cam specs? I.e. 2500-6500 powerband?

My car makes peak HP at 5600RPM. Run it through the traps in 3rd vs. overdrive at 6200 and it goes .5 second faster ET.
 
I think the OP said he had no traction. If so, that needs to be fixed before any other changes, because if you start making more power, you will just spin more. Look at drag radial tires. The widest you can fit on the widest wheel that fits.
 
What tires are on it now? If they are shorter than that you will have an even slower Et. I went from 26x10.50's to 28x12.50's and you'd be surprised how much it affects your car.

What does redline of the cam mean? Redline of the engine maybe, but not cam. Unless you had it on a dyno? Have you? Do you even know where it makes power or are you just going by the goofy cam specs? I.e. 2500-6500 powerband?

My car makes peak HP at 5600RPM. Run it through the traps in 3rd vs. overdrive at 6200 and it goes .5 second faster ET.

i have 26x10 slicks tires
dana 44 with 391 gears, spool
im in in mexico... is hatd to find a dyno... no dyno in my state
 
i have 26x10 slicks tires
dana 44 with 391 gears, spool
im in in mexico... is hatd to find a dyno... no dyno in my state

You can't hook that combo on 26x10's and a tight convertor? Something else is wrong here chassis wise. Get it to hook and then play with convertor and engine power. I don't know how bad it was spinning but you may be happy once it hooks up.
 
For those that don't think this should run 12's... This is how far off the combo is! Note the tire size.

My 360 started as a .040 over Napa rebuilt short block. I took it apart to check everything. I had the block decked (deck .015 head 63cc., gasket .028, compression 10.51)reversed the cast dished pistons on the rods and put in good rod bolts and had the rods resized. I put in an old Manley cam that I had. 443 lift [email protected] I don't remember the lobe seperation but I think it was around 108. I used J heads pocket ported with 2.02 int. valves and 273 adj. rockers an LD340 intake with a 1" 4 hole spacer and a Vac. 750. For exhaust I used heddmen 1 5/8" headers, 3" exhaust with ultra flows ending at the axel. I used a 904 with a Dayco 2,400 stall converter and an 8 3/4 with 3.91's the slicks were 8"x 26"x 14". Suspension consisted of 6yl. bars and comp. eng. adj. shocks in the front and 002/003 superstock springs with Mopar perf. 50/50 xtra long shock in the rear. The car was a 70 Valiant 4 door it weighed 3,320 with me in it. With an electric water pump drive, 5/16" fuel line with holley mech. fuel pump and a homemade fresh air intake (dryer hose and a dual snorkle air cleaner)the best run was 11.96/113 but it typically went 0's and teen's in decent air at Atco and E-Town. Typical 60'was low 1.70's. With a looser converter maybe around 3,500 stall it probably would have gone 11.70's or 80's.
 
You can't hook that combo on 26x10's and a tight convertor? Something else is wrong here chassis wise. Get it to hook and then play with convertor and engine power. I don't know how bad it was spinning but you may be happy once it hooks up.

my car moves side by side like a fish... i hook well in the last run
 
For those that don't think this should run 12's... This is how far off the combo is! Note the tire size.

this is my combo
360 - .030 over
KB107 pistons
stock rods
crank .010 (ARP bolts on rods)
587 heads - ported and 2.02 valves
Torker 2 intake
Holley 750 DP- 73-82
crower camshaft 267-271 - 474- 485 lift (267hdp)
dana 44 with spool -391 gears
TF904 - transgo
Dacco 2500 converter
26x10 slicks
MSD 6AL 5500 limiter
hooker competition 1 5/8
stock suspension
no subframe connector
4 gal fuel tank
true dual exhaust - 2.5 dynomax super turbo - no x pipe


buttt my car is soooo tall, because my slicks hit in the fender
 
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