Where does this electrical box go?

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rumblefish360

rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
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I'm working on the wife's '67 Cuda. I am not sure where the heck this thing goes. I'm not used to the cars this old. It's been a long while, LMAO!

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I'm getting there!
Not sure where to mount the coil ether since the manifold has no provisions.

Got pictures?????

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Voltage Regulator.
Bolts to the firewall. Look for a screw hole on the drivers side of the firewall.
 
Looks awesome Rob! 1st pic is.voltage reg. In dads 67 cuda it mounts on the firewall drivers side. Just to the outside of speedo cable I believe.
Intake...thats an LD4B? With dads I had to use a 340 6 pack coil bracket(repop)
There is a member on here that makes them or you can mod one up yourself.
Check out 6pk2godemon thread on her 4bl swap. She used an LD4B and a home made (very well) coil bracket.
Looks very sharp!!
 
I bought the fabricated bracket built by a member that fastens to right intake bolts. Seen them on the fender too. Photo on page 8 of my build thread.
 
A screw hole by the speedometer cable on the fire wall... roger roger! Will look.
(Got a picture?)
Couldn't see jack in the dim light tonight.

The intake is a Weiand Stealth purchased from a member here. (Another thread is started in it.)
Carb will be a Edel. (AVS) Thunder 650.

6 pack coil bracket! I have one of those! Why didn't I think of that?!?!
(Don't answer wise guy! LAMO! )

Oh! Speaking of speedometer cable .... how does that get retained? C-clip in the cabin? I have a cable... & that's it ...

I have a few other things I'm forgetting about that I still get have to cross and get to. I have 99% of the car and it's small parts.

Johnny Dart, 4spdragtop, DesertRat

Thank you very much!
 
Heres mine basically same spot. You can see grommet for speedo. (Punchline there somewhere Lol)
No c-clip for cable. Threads to back of speedometer and to trans. Make sure there is a small brass spacer that goeson back of speedo before it threads on.

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Ahhhhhh, thanks. Wouldn't have looked there. I need a washer bottle too. I'm not even sure if it is a foot pump or not.
(Next On the check list tomorrow. )
Thanks on the speedometer tip.
I was thinking throttle cable held in by C-clip?
 
That voltage regulator is part of the OEM charging system, Which may prove to be inadequate where modern electronic ignition is employed. Crossing that bridge if/when is pretty much the norm'.
Good luck with it.
 
Thanks, any suggestions on a worthy uograding? I might as well do it now before I see this thing up.
 
Lots of ways to upgrade the electrical in these older cars. Mostly depends on what you add / how much juice you need. At minimum I suggest you google VR128. This will at least provide optimum performance from either of the 2 OEM alternator types without any other mods.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Thanks, any suggestions on a worthy uograding? I might as well do it now before I see this thing up.
Click to expand...
Depending on your installed electrical load you can go with a modern electronic voltage regulator (what I did) and the MAD bypass or go with one of the 1 wire alternaters and larger capacity, any case the MAD bypass is highly desirable!
 
I went with the Toyota alt and brackets. Internally regulated and rock solid charging at any RPM. It just needs a keyed 12v wire, a sense wire from the starter solenoid stug, and your charge wire to the starter solenoid stud. Piece of cake
 
The madelectrical ... Look at those pictures. That somewhat typical meltdown occurred outside the cabin, where it belongs, regardless of what the root cause might have been. They can't/don't say what the root cause is/was. Anyway... To bypass this "designed" point of failure will only relocate the point of failure to inside the cabin, somewhere under the dash. Owners have proven this, one very recently.
 
mine was a 100% stock harness in great shape. No visible corrosion, grime etc in the bulkhead connector. The charge wire connection got hot enough to deform it's socket, but never got crispy...now the other end of that wire, the inside the cabin portion, that wire got so hot along it's full length that it melted through it's sheathing, and welded itself into the wires around it. This energized other circuits, and basically destroyed the under dash harness. A fusible link, breaker, or fuse is a designed point of failure. Saying the engine bay side of the bulkhead connector is a designed point of failure is kind of laughable honestly. If you are going to upgrade the electrical system, it's just that, a system, upgrade the rest as necessary.
No different then upgrading your horsepower, then having the rear-end grenade, and saying it's because the transmission didn't fail like it should
 
Do they not roll off the assembly line with a matching drive line that can handle the horsepower?
See the thing is, We know heat builds slowly, over time, and eventually melts something rather than blow the fusible link. For yours to fail under the dash first was not typical. You haven't stated the root cause of that overheating either.
My best guess ( where absolutely nothing was altered/added ) would be windshield wipers.
Never mind.
 
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VR128, got it.

The only upgrade (?) would be the square back Alt. only since it is on hand.
The stereo will be upgraded and I would like to add an Amplifier.

At the moment, no other electrical work will be done. No by pass of the amp meter. I just don't see the need. I just wanna get this thing up and running. And then work on upgrading things later.
 
I agree with the matching driveline, and I believe as delivered the electrical system was adequate.
Proof being my 1969 didn't have an issue until 2015. Not sure what caused it. Maybe a PO's failing battery that left the alt running max amps all the time trying to top it off, or an aging wiper motor creating a higher load, or unseen corrosion inside a wire, just not sure. My point was if you are going to upgrade the charging system, as delivered, the rest of the electrical system isn't adequate, and the bypass isn't responsible for that.
 
DesertRat said:
Depending on your installed electrical load you can go with a modern electronic voltage regulator (what I did) and the MAD bypass or go with one of the 1 wire alternaters and larger capacity, any case the MAD bypass is highly desirable!
Click to expand...
As mentioned above, just a more modern DIN radio and hopefully an amp. I would like to keep the under hood loser to stock at the moment. No one wire Alt. The upgraded VR can wait at the moment.
How is the MAD by pass "Highly desirable?"
Or let me out it this way.
How many amp gauge fires have YOU personally seen? Actual view, not heard, or my buddy's friend and I read somewhere....
 
JoeSBP said:
I went with the Toyota alt and brackets. Internally regulated and rock solid charging at any RPM. It just needs a keyed 12v wire, a sense wire from the starter solenoid stug, and your charge wire to the starter solenoid stud. Piece of cake
Click to expand...
Now that's different and slick.
 
rumblefish360 said:
As mentioned above, just a more modern DIN radio and hopefully an amp. I would like to keep the under hood loser to stock at the moment. No one wire Alt. The upgraded VR can wait at the moment.
How is the MAD by pass "Highly desirable?"
Or let me out it this way.
How many amp gauge fires have YOU personally seen? Actual view, not heard, or my buddy's friend and I read somewhere....
Click to expand...
I am the second owner of my 67 Notch from new. When I bought it 10 years ago, it had had a wiring loom fire in the engine bay. A battery had exploded and damaged the engine bay and the front fascia of the car. The bulkhead connector was suspect. Don't know the cause and don't care, there are a bunch of threads here about this modification and after 15 years as a journeyman electrician it all made sense to me. I had the dash out of my car and it was an easy to follow and accomplish mod. I also removed the fusable links and added circuit breakers from the alternator to the battery and from the battery to the interior of the car. (dash) Certainly not a necessary mod but one that made sense to me as I had my car completely blown apart and a lot of folks on this forum recommended it. JMHO
 
DesertRat; LMAO, sorry, but HOLY CHIT! & OMG! Wow!

JoeSBP, thanks. I certainly plan to make some changes to the car but just not so fast. LOL, I'm still putting it together.
I did go to member gender Pace Performance for a distributor upgrade.

Side note, 6 pack coil bracket didn't fit the Weiand Stealth. Time to break out the tools and sheet metal.
 
OK, long time, No report.
RedFish said:
At minimum I suggest you google VR128. This will at least provide optimum performance from either of the 2 OEM alternator types without any other mods.
Click to expand...

Well, as I (*I think*) mentioned I picked up a resto VR. The Alternator was from AutoZone but they only had a 2 field.

Now, IIRC, I need to ground one of the fields. Ether one IIRC will do. So I made a short jump wire and ended it with a loop connected to the fulcrum bolt for the Alt. that goes into the aluminum head.
This would be a good ground point?
Or the inner fender is better?

Regardless, the dang thing doesn't charge. The Alt. does check Ok. So I picked up another VR, VR 706, from AutoZone. It isn't the VR 128 as suggested I know and it does look a little funny but work it should.
(I hope! LOL!)
 
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