Welded spider gears PROS - CONS

Welded spider gears (for weekend cruise/joyriding)


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69fstbkcuda

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741 case open 3.55
Thinking about trying the poor mans possi. What are your thoughts and opinions?
Fire away!
 
Zero con's. I've been welding spiders since the 70s..never had a problem directly related to it.
As a side note, about ten years ago, I bought a truck load of parts that had come from Petty Enterprises...it was a bunch of their Short and Dirt track stuff. Came with half a dozen chunks..every one of them had welded spiders
 
741 case open 3.55
Thinking about trying the poor mans possi. What are your thoughts and opinions?
Fire away!
My cousin and I welded the gears on my first beater truck back in high school. Beat the snot out of it, never had any issues with it
 
A friend of mine and i were discussing spools, mini-spools, welded spiders on the street just the other day. He told me of an adventure he had with a Posi unit that would not slip. Said it had a tendency to pull toward whichever tire had less air pressure/diameter. Gotta stay on the wheel :steering:
 
Done in the old days as well. Just dont do it with a 7 1/4" rear...........lol
Long story short, coming off highway ramp, inside tire chirping a bit as usual,,,,then boom,, goodbye right rear axle.not funny at the time.
But LMFAO right now!
 
Zero con's. I've been welding spiders since the 70s..never had a problem directly related to it.
As a side note, about ten years ago, I bought a truck load of parts that had come from Petty Enterprises...it was a bunch of their Short and Dirt track stuff. Came with half a dozen chunks..every one of them had welded spiders
I guess keyword.... Dirt LOL
 
I ran welded gears in my dirt track car for four seasons (same 12 bolt rear) My "mentor" during the building of the car, made sure that the gears absolutely meshed at the welds, allowing plenty of travel from forward to reverse. BTW: If you have never welded spiders before..."you don't weld the gears together!" You weld up (fill) one "gear cog" on each gear completely and grind the weld smooth if it is higher than the ends of the opposing teeth. Reinstall them in a fashion that allows them to mesh at the same time in forward gear, sort of like setting the timing marks on a cam to the crank. It does have its draw back on sharp turns, as mentioned earlier.
Norm
 
I ran welded gears in my dirt track car for four seasons (same 12 bolt rear) My "mentor" during the building of the car, made sure that the gears absolutely meshed at the welds, allowing plenty of travel from forward to reverse. BTW: If you have never welded spiders before..."you don't weld the gears together!" You weld up (fill) one "gear cog" on each gear completely and grind the weld smooth if it is higher than the ends of the opposing teeth. Reinstall them in a fashion that allows them to mesh at the same time in forward gear, sort of like setting the timing marks on a cam to the crank. It does have its draw back on sharp turns, as mentioned earlier.
Norm

pics? interesting....
 
Before I joined the Navy in 68 I drove an whole winter with "not much" for tires and a "weld-a-lock" because I'd BROKE the spiders!!! It keeps you on your toes on slick and around corners!!!
 
Are you kidding? I've driven a spool on the street, you won't make a turn in the rain, without doing a 360! I wouldn't advise it unless it is a drag car only.
 
pics? interesting....

I think I know why you found it "interesting." You need to index the gears so the welds "try to mesh," (they can't) that's what locks the rear. This particular method was covered in an issue of Circle Track magazine.(circa 1993-94) It was written about a "mini-stock" differential, but my assistant and I incorporated into my Chevy rear end. I sold my stock car in 1998, the new owner was still running that rear end in another car he built, after totaling mine out. I tried to search that article without luck. I do know that we did not weld any gear to each other or to the cage. BTW: This is based on what I can best remember. (grin)
Norm

Stock Car.jpg


gears.jpg


Stock Car.jpg


gears.jpg
 
I think I know why you found it "interesting." You need to index the gears so the welds "try to mesh," (they can't) that's what locks the rear. This particular method was covered in an issue of Circle Track magazine.(circa 1993-94) It was written about a "mini-stock" differential, but my assistant and I incorporated into my Chevy rear end. I sold my stock car in 1998, the new owner was still running that rear end in another car he built, after totaling mine out. I tried to search that article without luck. I do know that we did not weld any gear to each other or to the cage. BTW: This is based on what I can best remember. (grin)
Norm

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So it gives the differential action a wee bit of movement before it locks?

Based on how you described it compared to the picture, that's exactly what I expected, but not sure the point.
 
At least half the welded sets end up cracking between the spiders, giving a tiny bit of play, which is probably a good thing. Filling in just the one tooth on each gear would seem like something that would put a lot of stress on the cross pin as they try to ride up over the lump.
That said, I'm going to try that on the next diff I weld for myself and see how it goes
 
At least half the welded sets end up cracking between the spiders, giving a tiny bit of play, which is probably a good thing. Filling in just the one tooth on each gear would seem like something that would put a lot of stress on the cross pin as they try to ride up over the lump.
That said, I'm going to try that on the next diff I weld for myself and see how it goes

Remember now, I did this on a "circle track car." In a manner of speaking...the pressure that is introduced to the gears is done gradually. How this application would hold up to dumping a "trans-brake or clutch," may present a different issue. Try it, it may work out.
Norm
 
So this method allows for easier turn-in (on pavement) but in the dirt I'd think you'd want that for better transition to crossed up driving mode over solid spool.

I am wondering if it likes to step out under power when the weld hits, on a street application.
 
I think I know what I'm going to try with that open legged diff that's been in the trunk of the valiant for eight years now.
This is clearly a good idea for a street car!
 
They lock them for oval track use because they run stagger in the tires. Right rear tire is bigger than the left rear tire, which makes the car naturally want to turn left.
 
I won't use a welded diff on asphalt. Won't run a spool either. If you want to, go for it.
 
I really can't believe this conversation, I mean that it has been given ANY merit for running on the street! Like Moper said above, go for it. If you really want excitement, weld the spiders on a front differential on a 4x4! Yeah, done that too.
 
Done in the old days as well. Just dont do it with a 7 1/4" rear...........lol
Long story short, coming off highway ramp, inside tire chirping a bit as usual,,,,then boom,, goodbye right rear axle.not funny at the time.
But LMFAO right now!


Damn. I have one of those and the peg leg burnouts I do when I try to be cool :(. Sad now.
 
I really can't believe this conversation, I mean that it has been given ANY merit for running on the street! Like Moper said above, go for it. If you really want excitement, weld the spiders on a front differential on a 4x4! Yeah, done that too.

Tell you what I have done to two different trucks I had. Both had open front differentials. I put a spool in them. Unlock the hubs for street driving. Then lock one for off road....and if I needed to lock the second to get out of a jam.

Makes the steering way less effective with both locked, but it will work well to get you out of bein stuck.
 
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