360/727 cooler lines.

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1994redram

1994redram

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I'm pretty sure I know the answer here, but here it goes. I'm finally getting around to putting the motor in my 70 dart. It's a Magnum 360 and a 727 using the transdapt /6 to small block mounts. I attempted to install my new SS cooler lines that I picked up from summit. Neither of them fit great, but I've dealt with pre bent fuel, brake, and trans lines on a camaro I had and now this dart. They ALWAYS require some tweaking. No amount of "tweaking" will fix this.
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They are both threaded onto the transmission and routed as correct as I can tell. The line the ends in the engine bay seems to be correct and I can make that work. But the other line would stick out well past the bumper! Anybody had this issue? I'm assuming it's just a case of incorrectly boxed parts. It's been 3-4 months since I ordered them do hopefully summit can do something about it.
 
Finish out the two circled bends to 90* the same way they are already bent and that should get you "real close".

TRANS LINES.jpg
 
I've never attempted to flare a stainless line. But these stainless lines have proven to be VERY difficult to bend and manipulate. Would I be able to cut and re-flare the line with a basic hand held flare tool?
 
Car looks nice so far. Would you be able to bend the long line from where it exits the trans, over to the other side of the transmission and then come up to the front from the other side of the motor to the radiator fitting? It seems like that would require attempting less difficult bends and use up most if not all of the additional length.

I bought a roll of aluminum tubing from Summit to make my lines, as it is easier to work with. The stainless material nearly takes hydraulic flaring tools to flare it, although it can be done by hand with decent flaring tools.

Will you be running an additional plate style trans cooler too?
 
jbc426 said:
Car looks nice so far. Would you be able to bend the long line from where it exits the trans, over to the other side of the transmission and then come up to the front from the other side of the motor to the radiator fitting? It seems like that would require attempting less difficult bends and use up most if not all of the additional length.

I bought a roll of aluminum tubing from Summit to make my lines, as it is easier to work with. The stainless material nearly takes hydraulic flaring tools to flare it, although it can be done by hand with decent flaring tools.

Will you be running an additional plate style trans cooler too?
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I've tried to "custom" bend lines. It's just something I can't do. It's a simple task yet I manage to hack it up everytime. So I always spend a bit extra for a pre bent. I don't plan on running a plate cooler at this time. The car is just a cruiser and shouldnt be abused too bad. The trans is a stock rebuild with a trans-go kit and the motor is a stock 5.9 magnum except for the intake, headers, exhaust, and hopefully holley EFI. A 408 and beefed up trans might come later after body and paint is done.

My firm feel box will be in today finally. But I'll be held up waiting on cooler lines if I don't/can't modify these.
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What I would do........ Get yourself a 25 ft roll of cupro/nickle tubing,( i think you need 5/16)and make your own lines. This type of tubing is easy to bend, and flare (using a quality flare tool). It has a slight copper look to it.
I buy cupro/nickle tubing from ebay, with free shipping. Most newer vehicles are using this type of tubing. It will not rust, and is DOT approved. Been in use in Europe for a long time. It's the only kind I use any more.
Then you can save your SS lines for your next project.
 
Send pictures to place of purachse/manufacturer and ask for answers, correct part, refund.
 
I bought mine from Summit also (Right Stuff) and they fit pretty well. Nothing like what you're seeing. I think you may have gotten one wrong line?
 
1994redram said:
I've never attempted to flare a stainless line. But these stainless lines have proven to be VERY difficult to bend and manipulate. Would I be able to cut and re-flare the line with a basic hand held flare tool?
Click to expand...

Who said one word about cutting and flaring? Go back and read what I wrote. All you need to do is finish out two bends.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Who said one word about cutting and flaring? Go back and read what I wrote. All you need to do is finish out two bends.
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Listen to what rusty is suggesting looks like a no brainier to me. Two 90* simple bends and you're in business. No need to cut and re-flare, if you do then you'll most likely be short.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Who said one word about cutting and flaring? Go back and read what I wrote. All you need to do is finish out two bends.
Click to expand...

I read and understand your post. The angle of the picture is a bit misleading. There is way more line sticking out than what is needed. I'm using a champion radiator and the fitting is about centered with the crank. So it will have to be cut or have 12-16 inches of line extra to manipulate.

I've sent an email to the manufacturer to see if there is anything they can or will do. Seems like summit only has a 90 day policy which I'm past.
 
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