Previous owner did install 383 was a six with 73 disc brakes. I went to replace my idler arm with moog K7042. And when I compare them to what I took out the angles are not the same. If I install it in the car it makes the center link hit the oil pan. The one I took out doesn’t hit the oil pan. I do see that the 73 dart takes a different idler arm part #. Going through the paperwork from previous owner I do see that he did order the same part number I did whether he installed it I don’t know. So I’m confused did I just get a bad moog part or is there a bigger picture here that I don’t understand?
Idler arm question for 68 dart
- Thread starter gdbuick
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I would guess mis packaged or made wrong or just low quality, maybe re-boxed. Or maybe it's a counterfeit
We have posted numerous times, the 73/ later has the studs pointing the opposite direction from 72/ earlier. There are 4 pieces that must fit together......
There was a change in the size of the box pitman shaft so the pitman must fit the box
The center link, idler and pitman all must go together IE 72/ earlier or 73/ later
We have posted numerous times, the 73/ later has the studs pointing the opposite direction from 72/ earlier. There are 4 pieces that must fit together......
There was a change in the size of the box pitman shaft so the pitman must fit the box
The center link, idler and pitman all must go together IE 72/ earlier or 73/ later
Did you order idler arm for 68 w/big block application? I seem to remember seeing in parts catalog that there were different "special" parts but never saw a comparison, how much difference there was.
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I think the pitman and idler for pre 73 need to be a matched set, i.e. both for standard applications or BB application, In order to level the linkage.
The 73 idler arm absolutely will not work unless you change pitman arm and center link to 73 up design. Those have stud pointed down, zerk on top. No "special" parts required for this later design.
There is a slim chance that the previous owner also purchased the standard application arm, then heated and tweaked it to clear.
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I think the pitman and idler for pre 73 need to be a matched set, i.e. both for standard applications or BB application, In order to level the linkage.
The 73 idler arm absolutely will not work unless you change pitman arm and center link to 73 up design. Those have stud pointed down, zerk on top. No "special" parts required for this later design.
There is a slim chance that the previous owner also purchased the standard application arm, then heated and tweaked it to clear.
Ok thanks. Amazon had the best price so that’s where I got mine. I just ordered another one and will know in a few days. I also noticed 53 stamped on new pitman arm and 52 stamped on the one I took out of the car. Not sure if this is how moog labels the part number or not. If these are part numbers that would surely explain why different.
I don’t really know what the previous owner did so maybe he did tweak it including what suspension pieces he mixed match together. When I first looked into a part numbers I did check whether the part was the same for a six cylinder or big block and they both listed the same idler arm part number on rock auto. The stud on my idler arm points up .
Yeah I just saw the same at Rock Auto. this "one size fits all" isn't what I remember from printed paper catalogs back in the 80s. I'll question my memory. Good luck with it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Lots of good information there from the best I can tell I just got the wrong part in the right box.
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Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
There's no question that the old arm was bent to clear the oil pan. It is obvious.
Ugg that’s not good. I was hoping for wrong part in the box as I noticed 53 stamped on new pitman arm and 52 stamped on the one I took out of the car hoping that was a moog part number reference. I also don’t know what oil pan I have.
I have to agree with Jim, without the correct oil pan, tweeking the idler is about the only option PO had. Once that idler in bent enough to clear the oil pan, the steering geometry is wacked. The pan you need has a scalloped area right behind the deep sump portion on passenger side. Look at Schumacher Creative Services web site. He does a good job in explaining oil pan wills/won'ts.
Just received another new idler arm. It matches my other new one. So it does appear that the previous owner tweaked it to clear oil pan. Great, I now wonder what else is mismatched and likely worn out from incorrect alignment.
I will have to try to figure out what oil pan I do have from the info on Schumacher. My pan does have a scalloped area.
I will have to try to figure out what oil pan I do have from the info on Schumacher. My pan does have a scalloped area.
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72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
Not saying a word on that exhaust pipe. 
Yeah that’s got to go. Headers on the list with the next engine rebuild for sure if not sooner.Not saying a word on that exhaust pipe.
DartSwinger451
Well-Known Member
Hell, that pipe is a Picasso compared to some of the Frankenpipes I've cobbled together
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Oil pan is fine, but I've still had to "massage" that area for clearance. Motor looks like it might a little low.
Himmm. So even correct pan still might need a massage - interesting. With new pitman arm on it was only hitting near full lock turn.
Where all this work was done by PO and you mentioned my engine maybe low it seems I may want to revisit the whole previous owners motor installation and suspension parts used if I can figure out how to do that. I do have the engine mount paperwork from Schumacher.
Talk about a snowball - I’m just changing a Pitman arm that had some slop but probably figured out why now it has slob as there’s not many miles on it according to PO since entire front end replaced. Note this car drives straight and suspension feels fine with manual flaming river steering box. I have this going on while trying to figure out either a 383/400 motor rebuild with aluminum heads and headers with all the fitment issues with headers / suspension in abody this could turn into changing out the whole front suspension for something with some more room.
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Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
I'd just clearance the pan a little to clear. The truth of the matter is that the bend on the idler probably didn't affect steering enough to tell the difference in anything less that spirited cornering...
Thanks Jim
I will look into that option. I have a 400 engine on a stand with an oil pan on it to get an idea what I can get away with denting pan to get by for now.
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