Welp, I took car for a cruise and I have a decent drop across the rad. Top hose is around 185 coming out of radiator, lower hose is 150's. I will say that the thermometer isn't exactly the most accurate, it gives funny readings.
What I did notice was that there were a few areas on the radiator at the bottom driver's side mostly that were much cooler than the rest of the rad, like 60-70 degrees cooler. So I believe I have a compound issue that I didn't notice with my cool-running 318. It looks like a radiator upgrade is in my immediate future...
I did pull the timing back and I disconnected the vacuum advance so that part throttle cruising didn't have the added timing and that had no effect, so I don't believe I have a timing issue.
This post indicates the cooling system at idle is doing it's job , thermostat temp(ish) coming out top hose , rad dumping enuff heat to cool at idle, pump circulating.
Now, at speed the partial plugged rad could not keep up with the added heat cuz it's effectively too small, and the temp creeps up till the faulty guage makes you uncomfortable.
If you pulled to the side of the road it woulda cooled down.
On top of that your believing a guage you know not accurate.
Does the engine now overheat at speed ? What's the upper rad hose temp in the "overheat" condition, engine still running ?
That's the normal place for sender.
Very long shot, run a ground wire to the sender base, see if it's getting a good ground.
Factory guages are notorious for being a "guidline".
CC2374 radiator. No, the car is pegging H on the dash and my IR therm is reading 215. I'm trying to get the temps lower, but starting to think that it's just a hot running motor. I don't have a high-flow therm in yet, that'll be nextAre you saying it's running hot @ 200 degrees?
Also what champion radiator? I have the cc526 and the factory shroud bolts right up.
If the shroud lines up with the mounting sides of the radiator you can drill it and run self tap screw in it.CC2374 radiator. No, the car is pegging H on the dash and my IR therm is reading 215. I'm trying to get the temps lower, but starting to think that it's just a hot running motor. I don't have a high-flow therm in yet, that'll be next
I might be late on this one but with the way you have those bypass hoses run you could be losing a lot of circulation through you radiator, those should be going through your heater core. In fact that big short jumper hose gets plugged in the pump and the manifold on the circle track racers i know. I,m thinking about plugging mine.
If the shroud lines up with the mounting sides of the radiator you can drill it and run self tap screw in it.
Mine runs about 204 on the freeway, which I’m not worried about, but I thought I’d change out the thermostat with a Stewart high flow. Here’s the thread I started to show the difference between the two “high flow” t stats. Won’t be running mine for a few months to see if it changed but based on how much more it opens I’d go with it if you’re going to bother changing it.
Thermostat comparison
The milodon that I showed in my post was a high flow. I was using it with a 8blade high flow pumpDid you have the high flow in there previously, or is this the first time you’re putting one in?
I read somewhere that you’re supposed to use one when you install a high-flow pump, but I haven’t gotten that far yet
...but starting to think that it's just a hot running motor.
Got the same problem fresh rebuilt 360 10.5 piston, two electric fans three row rad and heats to 190 is 7 min. I think I am going to pressure test system for leaking head gasket thin check water pump. Good luckI've also seen a lot of these rebuilt wp built with stamped impellers instead of cast impellers. The stamped ones appear like they would move a lot more fluid but they are bad news. They create a lot of cavitation.
Usually the best cooling set up is the 26" radiator and the 8 blade fan with thermal clutch. Also a 180° or 160° high flow thermostat will help alleviate the too hot issues. Also a factor that affects over heating is when a engine gets bored too much like. 60 over or more.Just finished putting a rebuilt 360 in my car. The motor runs great, plugs look good, but I've been fighting an overheating issue since the motor swap that I didn't have with my 318.
When idling, the car will run all day, no problems. It's when I'm driving that the temp will work itself all the way over to the hot-side of the dummy-gauge. I have to pull over or park and within a few seconds the temp will drop back down.
I have a 22" radiator and the factory shroud. I'm not running a clutch on the fan, however I have the factory 6 blade fan installed.
One thing I did notice was that the fan was about 2 1/4" away from the radiator itself. I purchased a spacer to get it closer to 1", but I'm unsure that's going to solve my issue.
Pic of the plug, car might be running a touch lean, but nothing out of control. I am running 38 degrees all in and have the vacuum advance hooked up. Maybe I'll try running without the VA and see if a little less timing helps the issue?
I would think that a 22" radiator and shroud should be able to cool an average 360.
View attachment 1715276858
My fix was grounding to the chassis better lol - dropped my temp 40 degrees.
Make sure your engine is grounded to chassis as well as battery, and make sure they’re GOOD grounds. I chased the issue all because my own basic negligence.
My assumption is that any electric sender operates using heat to affect resistance, which is what you’re reading on the gauge. If the system isn’t properly grounded, then the unit will give off skewed readings.That's interesting. What do you attribute the reduction of heat to grounding? I'm asking by what mechanism does this occur? Electric fans or water pump not getting full power?
Very curious.
My assumption is that any electric sender operates using heat to affect resistance, which is what you’re reading on the gauge. If the system isn’t properly grounded, then the unit will give off skewed readings.