VANE, people.....water pump vanes. You have veins, not water pumps. lmao.
Battling overheating new 360 build
- Thread starter DSMRossi
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rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
I should think running a heater would do nothing but help your situation.
Instead of running that "second bypass" hose, it would be simple to temporarily take it out of the equation, with some pipe plugs. Or you could just cut the hose, and stick a chunk of dowel in the hose ends and secure them with a couple of hose clamps. FWIW, a BB exhaust long nut fits the ID of the heater hose nicely.
Expecting an old 318 rad to cool a newly built performance 360 might be overly optimistic.
Instead of running that "second bypass" hose, it would be simple to temporarily take it out of the equation, with some pipe plugs. Or you could just cut the hose, and stick a chunk of dowel in the hose ends and secure them with a couple of hose clamps. FWIW, a BB exhaust long nut fits the ID of the heater hose nicely.
Expecting an old 318 rad to cool a newly built performance 360 might be overly optimistic.
You created the Dual bypass by putting that Loop on the front of the motor instead of running your water line to your heater core.
Everybody that has seen that has told you to not do it but you don't want to listen to that, you seem to think you have the answer to everything. You asked for help and then you fight every bit of the help that is being offered to you.
You have been told you need to get rid of that fan several times and you still insist on how great it is and that that's not a problem. Those fans flex and they crack and they spit parts of the blades out. That's one of the reasons everybody is telling you to get rid of that fan. But you're not listening. I told you in an earlier post that you needed to clean your radiator but you fought that all the way through to. Anybody that puts a fresh motor into a vehicle should have already cleaned the radiator before starting it up.
Good luck, your the biggest problem with your engine.
Everybody that has seen that has told you to not do it but you don't want to listen to that, you seem to think you have the answer to everything. You asked for help and then you fight every bit of the help that is being offered to you.
You have been told you need to get rid of that fan several times and you still insist on how great it is and that that's not a problem. Those fans flex and they crack and they spit parts of the blades out. That's one of the reasons everybody is telling you to get rid of that fan. But you're not listening. I told you in an earlier post that you needed to clean your radiator but you fought that all the way through to. Anybody that puts a fresh motor into a vehicle should have already cleaned the radiator before starting it up.
Good luck, your the biggest problem with your engine.
I'm not saying I know more, I'm asking what the difference is between that and running it to a heater core that isn't exchanging any air at the moment and back to the top of the motor.
I also never said the fan was a good fan and would love for you to quote exactly where I did... I said it's not the reason for my overheating issue. If the car is cooling fine at idle, it's not a fan issue lol. 99% of heating issues are in stop and go traffic and related to fan/shrouding, this ISN'T that.
I also said I wasn't going to rod out an old radiator, and agreed that it was most likely a radiator problem after adjusting the timing to no avail and finding cold spots on the radiator. New radiators are less than $200 at this point and unfortunately in 2019 it's cheaper to buy a new one than bring it to a specialty shop to have it rodded out.
One of the things I dislike most is throwing parts at a problem simply because it's regurgitated information. I have no problem immediately buying something to remedy a problem, however the problem I posed was an overheating at cruise problem, which doesn't equate to a fan issue and the other bypass hose simply isn't a logical explanation.
Again, if somebody can explain WHY that other bypass hose would cause the engine to overheat, I'm all ears. There's no difference from running that through 5ft of hose and back to the engine than running it through 6" of hose and back to the engine. That's simply not the problem here.
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That's where I am at this point. Then I'll start looking into the higher flow pump. However, from what I've read, Chrysler ran 6 VANE pumps on all non-AC cars.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
May I ask what you are running for oil ?
I believe the 6 vane pump was used on a/c vehicles that also had a different ratio pulleys to keep coolant flow the same while speeding up fan speed, at idle.
I believe the 6 vane pump was used on a/c vehicles that also had a different ratio pulleys to keep coolant flow the same while speeding up fan speed, at idle.
I think I'm running Rotella in this one. I have to double check, I ran the cam in back over the summer and haven't been back to the car until last week. But I'm 90% sure
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Weight ?
40 wt
Interestingly enough, I just checked my old 318 and the pump is labeled 2951571 - which references to an OEM high-volume 8 blade. Maybe my pulley size doesn't match up with new pump and flow-rate is off?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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30* is plenty,if it's circulating.
and no, you don't have to eliminate the heater core. When you call for heat, the heat exchanger will drop the temp in that line 20 to 30 degrees, about the same as the rad would.
When I leave the heater in circuit, I heavily restrict the primary bypass. I shoved something in there, I don't remember what, with a big enough OD to plug the hose and stay put.And it had a smaller hole in it. The heater core becomes my bypass at the ends of the driving season. During the summer when my feet begin to get hot, I just clamp the hot hose. Up here there's no telling what the weather will be, so some mornings I might still need the defroster in June and again in September, so It takes about a minute to unclamp the line.
Your water pump is a pusher pump. But it's lousy at sucking water up. The only reason it works at all is because generally,lol, you keep the liquid level in the rad high enough that "gravity" keeps water at the inlet.When you put an anti-cav plate on it, it becomes a pretty good pusher.
If your A-body doesn't have A/C, the engine won't care about pulley size, I have proven that multiple times. In fact, my combo is underdriven because I like the insurance at 7000+ rpm that the 14 year old belt is gonna stay on there. I have a manual trans so the rpm is always "up there" until I hit overdrive.
I run a 7# cap.... because if the the engine was theoretically to begin overheating; Firstly, at 7psi the blow-off will be early, and the steam coming out from the hood would be my signal to pull over. And Secondly my 1968 factory gauge is not gonna tell me anything with a higher pressure cap until it's too late, cuz it's is so awful darn slow.In fact, I have so much faith in my cooling system that I never almost never even look at it. Just like the factory oil-pressure gauge. Those gauges are just there, to placate the first-time buyers. The only one that interests me at all is the gas-gauge, the rest might just as well not be there. An oil-level gauge; now that could be useful,lol.
and no, you don't have to eliminate the heater core. When you call for heat, the heat exchanger will drop the temp in that line 20 to 30 degrees, about the same as the rad would.
When I leave the heater in circuit, I heavily restrict the primary bypass. I shoved something in there, I don't remember what, with a big enough OD to plug the hose and stay put.And it had a smaller hole in it. The heater core becomes my bypass at the ends of the driving season. During the summer when my feet begin to get hot, I just clamp the hot hose. Up here there's no telling what the weather will be, so some mornings I might still need the defroster in June and again in September, so It takes about a minute to unclamp the line.
Your water pump is a pusher pump. But it's lousy at sucking water up. The only reason it works at all is because generally,lol, you keep the liquid level in the rad high enough that "gravity" keeps water at the inlet.When you put an anti-cav plate on it, it becomes a pretty good pusher.
If your A-body doesn't have A/C, the engine won't care about pulley size, I have proven that multiple times. In fact, my combo is underdriven because I like the insurance at 7000+ rpm that the 14 year old belt is gonna stay on there. I have a manual trans so the rpm is always "up there" until I hit overdrive.
I run a 7# cap.... because if the the engine was theoretically to begin overheating; Firstly, at 7psi the blow-off will be early, and the steam coming out from the hood would be my signal to pull over. And Secondly my 1968 factory gauge is not gonna tell me anything with a higher pressure cap until it's too late, cuz it's is so awful darn slow.In fact, I have so much faith in my cooling system that I never almost never even look at it. Just like the factory oil-pressure gauge. Those gauges are just there, to placate the first-time buyers. The only one that interests me at all is the gas-gauge, the rest might just as well not be there. An oil-level gauge; now that could be useful,lol.
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Do you have a link to the type of pump you're talking about?
Being I only drive during warm weather, I took my thermostat and gutted it of spring and plug and pin guide, basically making it a high volume water restrictor. I have an autozone 5 vane pump, but am running a seventeen inch 5 blade clutch fan and a modified big block truck a/c homemade hack double belt 28 percent overdrive pump/fan pulley
Any idea where to FIND an overdrive water pump pulley? I have been looking since yesterday, don't see anything offered. Looks like OEM is just shy of 6"
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
as far as the fan, though I've never personally witnessed one come apart, I've heard enough stories about holed batteries, and even holed hoods from shucked blades. I know that when I'm under the hood, and I'm revving up an engine, I watch where I stand so I'm not in the line of fire should one of those fans come apart! A friend of mine was blinded in one eye, by a disintegrating fan on a mini bike. Better to be safe than sorry.
If I have any more trouble I will put on a flowkooler pump and CFV racing 18% overdrive serpentine drive....
I'm looking for just a smaller water pump pulley. The pulley in that kit is a hair larger than the OEM one, but in conjunction with their pulley system it does the job. If I can have my machinist take a bit out of my pulley, I can essentially overdrive my water-pump without having to swap. I'd probably try a flowkooler as well before I went through all that.
RockAuto carries two, High Performance, 8 vane with anti-cavitation plate.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Like I told you on post #4
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Like I said on post#4
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
You don't need a different pulley. You have the correct pulley for a non a.c. 8 vane water pump.
You need an 8 vane pump like I mentioned on page 1 post #4.
Mid eighties Dodge Ram truck and van platforms with air conditioning. Late seventies and eighties police cars. All the ChryCo overdrive fan pulleys are short and need a piece of 3-1/4 inch I.d. DOM tubing ( drive shaft type tubing) or a long snout off of a standard pulley added into the center hub. I would suggest keeping an eye toward CVS site as well, being that they do make v belt pulleys as well. My lower pulley is a 400 truck engine a/c pulley with eight inch double rear a/c drive and a 7-1/2 inch front pulley. I used a 5-1/4 double groove pump/fan pulley and welded in a piece of 3-1/4 i.d. 1/16 wall DOM tube to make it long enough to run off of the eight inch drive sheaves, the front 7-1/2 inch pulley is unused.
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You probably think this thread is about you, don't you, don't you. LOL
Close but no water pump.....your soo VAIN!
Having a second bypass or not having the heater core hooked up has no play in over heating. I would have the radiator checked out, or buy new. I would remove the flex fan and go back to a seven blade with a clutch, maybe get a more suitable fan shroud. I would check the pulley ratios and install a new pump 8 vanes with the plate or 8 vane cast unit...…...
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So...
Installed a brand new pump with 8 vane impeller and anti-cavitation plate
Installed a brand new 180 degree therm
Installed the new Champion 3 row aluminum radiator and brand new cap
Still hitting over 200 degrees at cruise, and it's currently 18 degrees here.
I just bought a new high-flow thermostat that's recommended with the pump, but I'm not convinced that's going to help. Kind of stumped here
Installed a brand new pump with 8 vane impeller and anti-cavitation plate
Installed a brand new 180 degree therm
Installed the new Champion 3 row aluminum radiator and brand new cap
Still hitting over 200 degrees at cruise, and it's currently 18 degrees here.
I just bought a new high-flow thermostat that's recommended with the pump, but I'm not convinced that's going to help. Kind of stumped here
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