1973 Dodge Dart Sport 340 Front Suspension

What can I do, kinda old school style, to tighten up the front end? The car has power steering and the only part I have replaced is the stock steering unit with a 'firm-feel' version. Can anyone help me with what I would need to do to get this front end as tight as possible but still retain most of the originality? I'm not looking to race it or anything, it's just a very quick street rod that needs some play taken out. The engine and tranny are out of the car so now is the time. As I said, I can't afford to get too carried away here but there must be someone out there that can tell me...O.K...replaced 'these' bushings with (...), change 'these' stock items to 'these' (...), etc...
Looking for items that will be direct bolt ons, so to speak (minor changes would be O.K.) to achieve as much tightness as possible without going nuts and changing the whole stock suspension to total after market.
Am I asking too much here?lol

Thanks guys. -Gary

I pretty much have 73 suspension in my 68 cuda including the K frame.

First thing you need to do is check each component in your front end for excessive play. I reused my ball joints because they were in good shape. The factory parts were good quality and when you buy aftermarket these days, sometimes it's a crap shoot.

Tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman need to be good. Period.

You should plan on replacing the LCA pivot bushings, guaranteed to be in bad shape after 46 years. I used Moog rubber when i did this about 8 yrs ago.

I also used Moog rubber strut rod bushings. Leaking power steering for years before i got the car was death to the driver side.

I changed to 16:1 manual steering with the box adjusted to take out slop.

Don't forget the rear shackle bushings. I used poly from Mancini Racing. Other than the sway bar bushings, that`s the only poly in my car.

The BIGGEST change though was using Moog offset bushings in the upper control arms arranged to add caster.
I run 2 degree positive caster, half degree neg camber, 1/16-1/8 toe-in and the car tracks like a freight train. Hands off straight on freeways.

A fresh rebuild of stock components and an upgrade to larger torsion bars. Box in the lower control arms and add/upgrade the sway bar if desired.
These cars handle fairly well when everything is tight and new.

X2 on the stock rebuild like Mike said. Check the welds around the lower control arm sleeve CAREFULLY where it welds to the k frame. Often there's cracks there. Run 2* positive caster or more. The offset bushings are OK, but you have to watch their lifespan, since they're thinner on one side.

I'd also look at the K frame since it's out in the open and you can see it. maybe consider removing it altogether. Factory welds were not always that great. On my own 73 340 Sport, in addition to other suspension upgrades, I had the K frame sandblasted and then I examined all the factory welds, redoing as needed and in some cases welding areas that had nothing from the factory. If you're not a welder, any good shop can do it and it shouldn't cost a fortune.

The number one go-to is tires, and followed closely by shocks. And if the rear is skidding around or rolling under, you gotta fix that first, before it gets you into trouble.

It really does not matter what year the front end "is." My take, some of which is already posted

1...Make sure every piece is "safe" uncracked, unbent, unbroken, including the LCA pivot sockets in the K member

2...Make sure every moving part is "tight" that is all bushings, all tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm, etc. Don't forget bolts on the steering box can be loose / loosen up, and include the steering coupler, in other words EVERY SINGLE moving part in the entire system

3...You do NOT need fancy poly bushings

4....Good shocks and radial tires

5....Some sort of front anti-sway (anti roll) bar, factory or otherwise.

6....Heavier duty torsion bars, either get the heaviest factory ones you can scare up, or spend some money on aftermarket

7....Don't discoun't alignment specs. DO NOT use the factory specs if you are using radial tires. Look up the All-Par page "turn of the screw" alignment, and the "skosh chart" for updated alignment specs. If your "front end guy" won't do that, get someone else

8....Go to MyMopar if you don't have and download a factory service manual. They are free, and some of them came from the guys right here

9...Don't forget the REAR springs, shocks and tires, which can make as much difference as the FRONT End!~!!