318 rebuild/overhaul kit

-
Stephen_Bull

Stephen_Bull

Active Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
35
Reaction score
48
Location
Mustang, Ok
I think this is the right forum section for this. I bought a 68 Dart last Christmas and recently found all the casting numbers on my engine. It's a 74 block with 67 heads and intake. It's pretty greasy/oily so I want to clean and rebuild it. What overhaul/rebuild kit should I go for? It starts and idles pretty good, haven't checked compression but it doesn't seem to have any excessive blow by, so I'm thinking just a good wash and full gasket set. That's where I need help. Do I need to piece together multi year gaskets or will a certain gasket kit cover the whole thing? Also, the 2bbl carb probably needs rebuilt, it always needs starter fluid for the first start up then after that it'll start on it's own. Thanks in advance.

Stephen B.
 
Stephen_Bull said:
I think this is the right forum section for this. I bought a 68 Dart last Christmas and recently found all the casting numbers on my engine. It's a 74 block with 67 heads and intake. It's pretty greasy/oily so I want to clean and rebuild it. What overhaul/rebuild kit should I go for? It starts and idles pretty good, haven't checked compression but it doesn't seem to have any excessive blow by, so I'm thinking just a good wash and full gasket set. That's where I need help. Do I need to piece together multi year gaskets or will a certain gasket kit cover the whole thing? Also, the 2bbl carb probably needs rebuilt, it always needs starter fluid for the first start up then after that it'll start on it's own. Thanks in advance.

Stephen B.
Click to expand...
Yep, nothing special. Just 318 stuff.
 
Fel-Pro Engine Gasket Kits SFLKS2114
This is a pretty complete kit. I have used it without issues. Has provisions for regular or 90* oil filter. I think it may not have oil pump gasket included. I would remove the caps, or at least one cap on each, rod and main to see if it’s through to the copper. In this case, I replace the bearings as well.
 
Do the scrub diesel in the garden sprayer or the scrubbing spray cleaner (tiny bubbles on the can) maybe 25 cent car wash but be prepared for wet and no start
points or electronic ignition?
valve cover gaskets are your main suspect
replace , do the compression check, how are the plugs?
next thing is to replace the timing set so you will need the cover gasket and seal
replace the pcv and any soft pcv hose
replace the fuel filter (s)
rebuild that carb and go easy on the ether- highly explosive
post back
then determine if you need a rebuid, just a valve job or whatever do not buy that complete set yet
maybe you will not have to pull the heads
no service record?
oil in the cylinders and smoke when you get off and on the gas could just be valve stem seals which can be changed in the car
 
Go ahead and do a compression test to see if there is anything obvious that needs further investigation before tearing into it, it's always good to know beforehand instead of being caught by surprise. Surprises are usually never good for your plans or budget. I do recommend the steel core valve cover gaskets if you plan to pull the valve covers down the road, they seal better than the cork/rubber composite and are reusable to boot.
 
'Yes' on the compression test first and post pix of the splus set out in order. Find the obvious issues.

BTW, starting fluid is harsh on the cylinder walls; takes off the oil. I'd not use that any more; it's really just for very infrequent use if ever. Do you pump the pedal to the floor 2-3 times before a cold start? Sounds more like the choke system on the carb needs work; can't say if this is an electric or mechanical/thermal type.
 
Ditto on the ether and choke. It also could be fuel leaking from float bowl overnight and needing to be refilled before having enough to run the engine, the ether would run the engine long enough to refill the bowl and mask the issue.
 
1st Roger that on the gasket set working for pretty much the multi year setup I've got, thanks. It's got all new plugs, fuel filter, cap/rotor, little spring arm thingy under the cap, (never seen one of those before) I used a feeler gauge to set distance as I have no idea about dwell...whatevers...I'll be going HEI from another dodge in the future. The ignition timing is set properly for a '74 318.

2nd, I'll stop using spray to get it started, it's got a cable choke, its not really secured to its braket, and honestly I've got no idea how chokes work.

3rd, the valve cover gasket broke apart (cork) when I pulled the covers off to check casting numbers...plus the lifter area is covered in thick gunk, gonna tear down and clean it.

4th when I do the tear down, I'll check rod and main bearings and replace if needed.

5th, no idea how to rebuild a carb, so I'll learn me some stuff on the YouTube. (I recently sold a 93t MR2 to get this, I wanted a small muscle car as I was bored with the import thing)

Honestly I know a 318 is a great little starter motor, but I'm not keeping it in the long run. I'm wanting to do a 383/440 build eventually so I just want the engine clean, no leaks running smoothly for now and that way I have something to sell/trade with in the future. I'll keep people updated.

Stephen B.
 
Ok...sooo...there's bo way it starts without external help. Pulled the air cleaner off, should it be like squirrrrrting fuel into the intake when I flip the throttle? Cause it's like one little spit. Also, I sucked on the vacuum advance on the distributor...yeah nothing there, I pulled the line off plugged one end and the line holds "mouth vacuum" but if the hose is installed on the distributor I can suck and blow through it. So bad diaphragm at best. So carb rebuild kit, distributor kit, or just switch to HEI now, and engine overhaul kit. It wouldnt be the first time I've rebuilt and engine. Just the first time on a v8, with lifters, push rods, rockers, and a carburetor...so fun stuff. Honestly it doesnt scare me at all as theres only one way to do stuff, and that's to do just do it.

Stephen B.

PS: if I move the choke plate around it doesnt really do much other than make a hissing noise. I can post a video if it helps.
 
The choke plate is closed shut or close to shut when you cold start; that creates a vacuum in the main throat of the carb and pulls in extra fuel to help the engine run rich, which is needed cold. It also should kick open the throttle a bit for fast idle speed. Having a manual (cable) choke is good in that the normal electical or thermal devices that set and then gradually pull off the choke during warm-up are bypassed; they typically are not functional by now. Now, you just need to learn how to use it!

  • Pull on the choke when cold; it takes more choking (closed tighter) the colder it gets.
  • Pump the throttle 3-4 times, then start. It ought to 'catch' and run.
  • If it wants to stumble and die, then either:
    • Pump throttle over an over; this use the accelerator pump to put in more fuel if it needs enriching
    • Adjust the choke to more or less to smooth the cold idle. As the engine warms you gradually pull of the choke. You'll get the hang of it.
Yes, sounds like a busted diaphragm! The HEI sounds like an excellent idea and you can sell it later on. If you set the relutor gao, use a brass or non-magenetic feeler gauge to avoid 'addling' the reluctor. 3 thicknesses of standard copy paper is pretty close... The gunk could be from a lot of things, including fuel in the oil.

And yes, it should squirt fuel down the throat(s) when you flip the throttle... that is the accelerator pump at work. Carbs run lean for a moment when you open the throttle, even just a bit, and the accelerator pump puts in extra fuel to cover that momentary lean situation, until the carb re-stabilizes to the increased airflow.

Yep, there's one way to do stuff..... and numerous ways to mess up LOL
 
does look like lack of squirt
advance can bad would not affect starting except as a vaccuum leak if connected to manifold vacuum and not ported vac
plug the can vac line and get your advance curve checked- use a dial back timing gun- get it right then hook op the vac adv
what do you mean by HEI? that's a GM term (methinks) are you talking about stock mopar electronic
if so good but stay away from "lean burn" years
 
Stephen_Bull said:
Ok...sooo...there's bo way it starts without external help. Pulled the air cleaner off, should it be like squirrrrrting fuel into the intake when I flip the throttle? Cause it's like one little spit. Also, I sucked on the vacuum advance on the distributor...yeah nothing there, I pulled the line off plugged one end and the line holds "mouth vacuum" but if the hose is installed on the distributor I can suck and blow through it. So bad diaphragm at best. So carb rebuild kit, distributor kit, or just switch to HEI now, and engine overhaul kit. It wouldnt be the first time I've rebuilt and engine. Just the first time on a v8, with lifters, push rods, rockers, and a carburetor...so fun stuff. Honestly it doesnt scare me at all as theres only one way to do stuff, and that's to do just do it.

Stephen B.

PS: if I move the choke plate around it doesnt really do much other than make a hissing noise. I can post a video if it helps.
Click to expand...

If you need to dump gas down the carb to start it, at least use some gas that has been mixed with 2 cycle oil, it will add a little oil to the mixture.
I had to teach my dad that, he once put so much starting fluid in his old truck, that had an intermittent starting ignition fire problem, when it did light off, it blowed the exhaust manifolds off.
Then the crazy old guy drove it 30 miles to my house and said fix it.
 
Oh, very good choice and nice find, BTW. I really like '68 to '69 Darts. If HEI, a Mopar type electronic distributor with Trail Beast's HEI system or the like is a viable option. If sticking with the Mopar system, a used electronic box out of the junkyard from the the non lean burn set ups are better than the newer Taiwanese or Chinese stuff from the parts store. That BBD carb (just guessing, if it's from the '68) is notorious for poor accelerator pump performance. If your budget can stand it, look for a used Edelbrock performer and a 500 cfm Edelbrock carburetor, it will pay for itself in fuel mileage and street manners. With whatever manifold you use, plan on checking your manifold fitment closely to prevent vacuum leaks. Few things more frustrating than having one suck oil from the valley after getting everything put back together in a fresh build. You can use your old gaskets and and a hole punch and lead shot to trial fit everything. Punch holes in the top and bottom of the gasket flange. Put the shot in place with a dab of silicone so it doesn't fall out, torque the manifold on, take it back off and measure the shot with a dial caliper. Here is an article about what you are shooting for on clearance, I use the Hughes method but use lead tire weight compressed and drawn in a vice with a little white grease to do the same thing.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_SEALINGJULY2015.pdf
 
Last edited:
So the answer is to mill the intake to correct the difference if not perfectly spaced?
 
Wyrmrider said:
drove it to your house?
crazy like a fox
Click to expand...

He still has the old truck, my sister a few years ago told me to quit fixing it.
So when inspection came due, I convinced him it was not worth fixing.
He said he would retire it to the farm, if he found a replacement truck, he put in in a tall order:
Long wheel base
6 cyl
Manual trans
Crank windows
Cold AC
No rust
2wd
He said he did not care if it was a Dodge, Ford or Chevy.
Found one on Craigslist one mile from my work, the guy was very honest, and loosing his *** due to a divorce, he sold it to dad cheap for lawyer money.
06 F-150 extended cab, 2wd $4500 it had decent miles, sips gas and dad haules whatever in.
Finding a 2wd truck in WV is about impossible.
 
You can mill the intake but the preferred method is to mill intake surface of the heads if the heads are off.
 
I learned early on (about 1979) not to buy anyone's kit. Doing that puts you at the mercy of someone else making decisions for you. COrners are always cut with cheap parts somewhere. I always piece my own together so that I can get good, quality parts. It's a little more expensive that way, but I get what I want and not what someone else wants me to have.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I learned early on (about 1979) not to buy anyone's kit. Doing that puts you at the mercy of someone else making decisions for you. COrners are always cut with cheap parts somewhere. I always piece my own together so that I can get good, quality parts. It's a little more expensive that way, but I get what I want and not what someone else wants me to have.
Click to expand...
X2 but I do buy the complete Fel -pro gasket set.
Mellings pump and pickup.
Clevlite bearings.
And rings depending on fresh bore or re-hone.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Me too! But King bearings are good too.
Click to expand...

I heard people having good luck with them.
A buddy a work had problem with their mains on a sbc thrust.
Maybe just an isolated problem but clevlites have served me well.
 
Ok, real quick, is there a specific carb kit I need to look at?

Also, once the engine is warm it'll start pretty much right away, but cold, nope. and even if I start it, let it runs for a couple seconds and try again, nope. It has to be warmed up or sprayed to start on it's own. the fuel filter always has fuel visible so I'm guessing fuel pump isn't leaking? perhaps the carb just needs rebuilt and the vacuum advance on the distributor needs fixed/replaced.

Stephen B.
 
Also, if I'm planning on pulling the engine to thoroughly clean it, it shouldn't hurt anything to replace all the gaskets and seals right? I mean, if compression is good, I'll just keep the head gaskets for later.

Are there any special tools I should look at getting? I did notice when I set the ignition timing i don't have a way to monitor RPM, but after setting it, I revved it up and the timing mark (on the balancer) would move away and sometimes return to were I set it. Isn't it supposed to stay ther the whole time?

Stephen B.
 
Set timing and idle speed with the vacuum Advance line plugged, curb idle in neutral with wheels chocked (so the pump load is against engine). Your timing change is mechanical advance. Read the distributor/advance section on this forum and on Al-Par. Do yourself a favor and get a factory service manual to familiarize yourself with what you are getting into. The tuning section will serve you very well with your carb rebuild. You mentioned a mechanical choke. Find some numbers off it and down load ya some pics of carb. Does it appear to be a factory manual choke set up or is it an early carb adapted over to the application?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top