318 rebuild/overhaul kit

[Garrett Ellison]

You do need to get a tachometer to properly set timing.

 

[Stephen_Bull]

You do need to get a tachometer to properly set timing.

Other than the factory tach. Is there a low profile one that people recommend? I wouldnt be opposed to an oil pressure gauge, tach and "insert 3rd option" set-up.

Stephen B

 

[Garrett Ellison]

For tuning purposes you need either a combination dwell meter/tachometer or a digital timing light with built in tachometer display. The dwell angle meter is used to fine tune point gap adjustment.

 

[MopaR&D]

You mentioned "set timing for a 1974 318", if you used factory specs then your base timing is way retarded for modern gas. You should have at least 10 degrees BTDC base ignition advance at idle. That would definitely cause cold-starting issues and will make it run like crap in general.

I'd also get rid of that BBD 2-bbl carb, I'm willing to bet it's pretty worn out (loose throttle shafts) which no rebuild kit will fix. It'll cost more but you'll be way ahead in the long run if you upgrade to something like an Edelbrock Performer (non-RPM) intake manifold and a 500-600 cfm Carter, Edelbrock, or Street Demon (my personal fave) carburetor. I would still pull apart the 2-bbl just as a learning experience so you get an understanding of how carburetors work.

Also bigtime +1 on the timing set replacement I bet your cam sprocket has half the teeth chewed off, or more.

Overall I'd recommend: Full gasket set (with thinnest head gaskets you can find, if you're pulling the heads), replacement 4-bbl carb, 4-bbl intake manifold, new timing set, and ignition tune-up.

And get dual exhaust on that bad boy, 5.2 liters trying to push exhaust through a single <2" pipe is no good lol.

 

[MopaR&D]

Something else I didn't mention... If you have original 1967 heads the exhaust valves won't be hardened, might want to check those for sunken valve seats. I pulled the heads off the original 318 my 1970 Duster came with and some of the exhaust valves were sunk over 1/8" into the head!

 

[Stephen_Bull]

I'm definitely not wanting to stick with the factory points set up, so I'll be switching to the Mopar Electronic parts. It's got straight pipes (no x or h pipe or mufflers, just two parallel pipes that end under the rear passenger area), it sounds cool but starts to pop after warmed up. The ignition timing is at 10 btdc (after ignoring the listed specs), but it likes to move around when throttled. I am 100% looking at a 4bbl set up, I want to go with the Weiand 8007, I've got a friend with one he is willing to part with, and then deciding on a carb. I'm honestly wanting to get this engine up and running so I can drive the car. But at the same time, it's got rust holes (rear window frame, trunck, front floor) I want to fix too. It's like, have a "hole-y" car that runs really well, or have a rust free car that sort of runs. I'm still deciding (aka parts list building/pricing) on which to do first.

Stephen B.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Do the bare minimum needed to get the body to where you halt any further rusting or damage. Get the engine up and make the car enjoyable and usable to drive. Having a pretty car that barely runs and leaves you walking or getting towed back in will only cause discouragement, while having a car that is both fun to drive and mechanically sound and reliable serves as motivation to do a good job on completing the project.

 

[Stephen_Bull]

Oh, I've definitely stopped the rust...lol most of it has been cut out. The rear window is out because the bottom sill was rusted away and it's what led to the trunck floor saying bye bye. Also, heater core is out cause it leaked and rusted the passenger floor area, and apparently an aftermarket door speaker wire hole is what caused the rusty driver floor. There's no front seat brackets, still trying to figure that one out. And all the side window seals need replaced.
So I know I need the little "L" shaped quarter panel/rear window pieces, the deck lid, trunk floor, and front floor patch panels. Then a new rear window seal, all other window seals. Heater core and heater box rebuild kit. And that should be everything to water proof the car. But all in all that's about $1,500ish(?) in parts. So I'm building like project groups and pricing them out. What's a good basic carb? I read the 500-600 CFM edlebrocks are pretty good, but so is a 650 thunder series. For jow I'm sticking with stock cam...maybe/maybe not. I'm still really unsure.

Stephen B.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

With a stock or a mild cam the smallest Thunder AVS 2 is as good as it gets, and the Weiand dual plane intake has a little advantage over the performer, but you’d never know it with a stock to mild cam

 

[Stephen_Bull]

With a stock or a mild cam the smallest Thunder AVS 2 is as good as it gets, and the Weiand dual plane intake has a little advantage over the performer, but you’d never know it with a stock to mild cam

Well I can get the 8007 for about $100, so i dont think I'm passing that up. But what you're saying is that with that intake and the mentioned carb, if i end up getting a mild cam it'll still be a good set up? I'm fine with that. I'm not looking to completely hot rod out the 318. I've got my eyes set on a 383/438 set up in the next couple years, so I'd like something to tide me over till then, and then be an easy sell/trade when I'm ready. Thanks for the advice, I'm really taking everything everyone is saying to heart and making notes lol.

Stephen B.

 

[MopaR&D]

Well I can get the 8007 for about $100, so i dont think I'm passing that up. But what you're saying is that with that intake and the mentioned carb, if i end up getting a mild cam it'll still be a good set up? I'm fine with that. I'm not looking to completely hot rod out the 318. I've got my eyes set on a 382/438 set up in the next couple years, so ide like something to ride me over till then, and then be an easy sell/trade when I'm ready. Thanks for the advice, I'm really taking everything everyone is saying to heart and making notes lol.

Stephen B.

Yes even with a mild cam (which you will probably want, stock 318 2-bbl cam is kinda pathetic) in a 318 that carb/intake combo will be more than enough. Check out the Sticky thread "Cams for 318s" for suggestions, I have a feeling even though you plan on building a big-block you're still going to want more power than a stock-cammed 318 can provide in the meantime.

 

[Krooser]

That spring are thingy is the ignition points set.

My opinion? Fix what's broke...